[kconner]

in reply to: proper treatment of new bow #57039

he cannot draw the bow back but about a third of the way. my intent was to let him shoot it often and build strength eventually coming to full draw. he can shoot a 25# bow all day and i was looking for something that he could legally hunt with which is 35# in Arkansas. I got a VERY good deal on this new bow which is 50# draw. Was wondering at what point the bow should be unstrung—if not shooting for a few days, weeks, months?

[kconner]

in reply to: lefty shooting wood arrows #15618

I bought two in 11/32″ and two in 23/64″ to try out. I did’nt ask what kind of wood they are. One has an odor (not cedar) when tapering, the other appears to be a “wood dowel” and no odor when tapering. These shafts are made by the local trad shop owner and are made well in my opinion. After i read the article i looked at those arrows and quite frankly, had a hard time determining the rift. I suppose i could identify without the stain. So i take it you are saying if i build my own arrows and want to go to the point of finding the rift, fine, if not just build ’em and shoot ’em. Sounds like thats what most arrowsmiths are doing? thanks!

[kconner]

in reply to: instinctive shooting and bow/arrow tuning #12085

Thought i might use some POC shafts with 160 gr broadheads and field points (whitetails and target practice) Eventually heavier shafts such as hickory or ash for tougher game (bear and especially hogs) so should i just experiment with a little of everything or go straight to the heavyweight stuff. So i guess i am asking an experienced archer, assuming you can shoot different arrow weights/broadheads as long as the arrow is reasonably spined. Example being cedar, douglas fir, hickory, carbon or aluminum? A quiver full of assorted shafts.

[kconner]

in reply to: instinctive shooting and bow/arrow tuning #11995

Thanks David, i have gleaned much in the last 2-3 weeks from the forums and many valuable insights from others. Yeah, been eye-balling that book. Learned the other day about the rift and positioning of the wood grain in wood arrows just in case an arrow breaks apart when released and many many goodies from the Ashby library. Looks like you may some good reading material out there yourself…much to ponder.

[kconner]

in reply to: wood arrows and their weight #7802

heavy heads in the forum, thanks—how about calculating spine weight to heavy or lighter broadheads? I read this somewhere today in the forums (i think). God bless you too, Steve.

[kconner]

in reply to: switch from compound to traditional longbow #64127

Thanks! seen that you use Bama Bows. I found out that Nathaniel lives about 2 hours away, contacted him and can meet with him and try some of his bows. NICE stuff! Now i am headed in the right direction to be able to see and try the bow before buying, especially since this will be my first longbow.

[kconner]

in reply to: switch from compound to traditional longbow #54221

rose city archery has a chart for spine weights and claims for wood arrows shot from a compound bow. I think there would be some serious liability on their part for “advertising” such things if not known to be safely done, unless they are pushing the product. With that said, i was always under the impression that a wood arrow could not be safely shot from a compound bow. However, if spine weight is matched or even +5 lb heavier to the particular bow (compound) how does this differ to a very heavy long bow shooting wood arrows? My compound is 20 years old and not blazing fast as the current compound bows. Shoots @ 200 fps with about 400 grain total weight arrow/ 125 gr broadhead set up. Now shooting wood arrow with 160 gr broadhead @ 600 grain total. shoot tight groups with no signs of splintering or breakage. It was just my way of starting to get trad stuff since i can’t afford my bow yet.

David Petersen wrote: KConner — welcome to tradbow.com, and welcome to the happily addictive world of traditional archery and bowhunting. You are shooting wood arrows with a compound? Brother, that’s a first so far as I have heard, and potentially dangerous. As we recently advised another gentleman who is considering buying a Hill style bow, coming straight from compounds, it’s a huge leap that few even attempt. Not recommended. Consider going first with either a recurve or a deflex-reflex (hybrid) longbow. In any event, there’s no way to know if the arrows you are shooting in your wheelie will also fly well from a stickbow, no matter the shaft material, without trying. I’d also check to see if you can handle a bit more than 50# comfortably, which, with the right arrow system, will equip you for most any N.A. game. It’s entirely possible that you can shoot the same arrows in both bows with different point weights. You’ll just have to try. In the end, perfect arrow flight is the single most important issue and it doesn’t pay to economize. Enjoy the learning process. Dave

[Author]

Posts