[jpcarlson]

in reply to: KME Broadhead sharpener, Single Bevel? #53662

Gentlemen,

I wanted to share some ideas on sharpening. I have been a woodcarver, knife maker by trade for 20+ years and have tried and used many methods and devices. Like most things you do for a long time, you find what works best for you and simplify it with time. I ended up finding two simple tools with which I sharpen everything from knives, broadheads (single and double bevel), and chisels/gouges. I use a two sided flat diamond bench stone. It is 4″ wide and 8″ long. One side is Medium grit, the other is fine. I start working an edge on these two, careful to keep the bevel flat and constant. I do this by sight and touch. It only takes a little practice. You just have to be careful to follow through on your sharpening stroke and not lift or roll the blade as you finish. That will cause a rounded off edge.

Two flatt bevels meeting in a honed edge will give you a razor. The finer the gritt you finish with, the finer and more uniform the edge (the sharper) will be. A simple way to check an edge is to draw it across your thumbnail. If you feel the edge catch or drag, there is a spot on the edge which still has a burr or which is dull/damaged. This can also be checked visually by holding the edge vertically up and sighting down the edge under bright lamp. A dull edge or dull spots will reflect light and show up brighter than the rest.

My last step is the time saver. I built a power stropp out of an old washing machine motor and various parts. On a mandral conected to the motor by a belt, I have a 6″ diameter piece of stiff shoe sole leather (6mm thick). This is mounted vertically and spins away from me. Just use honing compound applied to the leather disk. Sharpening is done on the flat surface (outside/inside) of the disk, thus allowing one to maintain a flatt bevel. With these two tools, I can sharpen/resharpen an edge in minutes to a polished shaver. The rpms are slow thus not heating the metal. Just be carefull the rotation of the disk moves away from the edge being sharpened or you get a surprise:) If anyone wants more specifics feel free to ask.

Hope this helps.

Jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: So I got a ghillie #51661

Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: A number of years ago I wrote a rather detailed article on building Gillie suits (yes, both spellings are corrrect) in the “Old Derelict’ series for Archery Action (Australia). One really important thing I learned over several years of building Gillie suits is that it helps greatly to match the Gillie suit closely to the individual area(s) you are hunting. To help do that during the building process I found that taking both color and black and white photos of the suit against the background area where it will be used provided me with extremely valuable information.

Nowadays this is easy, as many digital cameras will take both color and B&W photos. The color photo helps you match the color and hue of the background and the B&W photo helps you match the relative brightness of the background. Correctly matching the background made a big difference in the effectiveness of the Gillie suits. For deer matching the relative brightness is more important than matching the color and hue. For birds and predators it’s important to match both both color/hue and relative brightness.

Creating the illusion of depth, through use of shaddows cast by the surface material(s) used in the Gillie suit, is also extremely importsnt. It’s often startling to see how visible regular camo pattern cloth (and some gillie suits that lack ‘depth’) look when photographed in B&W; compared to a well designed Gillie suit.

Ed

Great info Dr Ed,

I will try that out. I often look at the natural patterns/colors of the animals I am hunting and am amazed their colors conceal so well! I also have looked at the coat/colors of predators/wild dogs and notice how light and dark patterns play more of a role than actual color in breaking up a person outline.

Is it better to start with a base color that is lighter, and darken with material/foilage? or vice versa?

Jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: So I got a ghillie #42737

Gigglemonk wrote: Well, I’ve never really been into Camo. When I lived in Utah, spot and stalk worked real well wearing earth tones and now in ca i haven’t had the best luck stalking through oak leaves. So I’m trying a mix of spot stalk and ambush.

I was looking at Camo clothes and I ended up with a ghillie for the price of some decent Camo brands. Never used one before, I think it’ll be fun but looking to hear people’s thoughts.

Thanks all

I was just given an old ghillie suit by a sniper friend to try for this fall too. I have never bowhunted in one but I can already see some adjustments that need to be made, mainly clipping away material on the bow arm and anything in front which the string might grap while shooting. I think the key will be to practice a good deal with it on from various shooting positions and custumize it to what will be practical for a trad shooter. the camo/concealment the ghillie offers is outstanding in certain situations. I look forward to trying it with spot and stalk as I have noticed many species of game will only run a short distance when they can’t identfy your silohette as a predator, as long as they don’t wind you. Keep me posted on your results and good hunting.

Jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #37264

jpcarlson wrote: [quote=David Petersen]Jans — I use the CE250s with 450 grains up front: 225 Tuffhead with 100 grain adapter and 125 grain insert. The shafts weigh about 350 and I total out just below 800 total. But this is an elk setup that I never shoot beyond 20 yards … it’s my shooting skill that limites me more than any trajectory problems.

For deer, antelope, turkey etc. I drop back 100 grains or more in head weight but not sure why.

I know there are many far superior carbon shafts out there but I know nothing about them. Being a very reluctant carbon shooter, I somehow got started with CEs and since they work I’ve stuck with them. Many folks here know more about the various carbon options than I do. While you don’t need a heavy arrow set-up for pronghorn, so long as it shoots to your satisfaction “there’s no such thing as over-kill” in hunting arrows, while opportunities for being under-gunned lurk behind every magazine advertisement (except TBM of course). 😀

David,

I opted for the Easton Axis Nano shaft in 340. Very strong, and pretty light. I am getting them with a 75 gr brass insert. I think I will order some 100-125 gr steel adaptors, then a 300gr field tip and broadhead to match. Probably going with the Tuffhead 300 as it seems like the only good heavy one out there. The guys at the bow shop all think I am crazy:) but they are curious enough to help me out and let me use the range and cut off saw to tune my arrows just to see what sort of tomfoolery i am dealing with. I can’t wait to get them tuned up and driving tacks. Then I can’t wait to show them the good flight characteristics and the superiour penetration in the foam target. when I talk about the setup with the small A&A fletching and the turbulator, you would think I had had come from another planet the way they react. It will be poetic justice in the face of all the gadgets and mechanical doohickies they sell and promote. I was shooting my old Bear recurve on their range yesterday after ordering my shafts and having fun. There was a young man shooting a new/used compound he had just bought next to me. He just stopped and stared as I repeatedly stacked arrows in a decent group at 15yds. He had this look of “you mean you can do that with such a simple set up and you don’t need a sight and release and all of this stuff I bought on this mechanical monster?” It was pretty fun to see.

How is the elk season down your way looking? I know half of colorado is on fire so I hope it doesn’t mess up your hunting grounds!

jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: FOC, Tieing the threads together #37255

Maybe a tungsten steel adaptor and/or insert would help too? I can’t think of anything strong enough with the weight that would machine better. Tungsten would be a pain, but indestructable!

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: FOC, Tieing the threads together #37253

Hey guys

I decided to try the Easton Axix Nano shaft in a 340. Very strong carbon shaft with a good spine and a 75 gr brass insert. The nice thing about these little lightning rods is how strong they are. I figure with the amount of weight I am going to put up front, the strength might be a good thing:)

Troy,

I was thinking of ways that would allow you/others to keep pushing the envelope of UEFOC. I have a machinist friend who may be able to work up some small diameter pieces of tungsten steel, or just plain steel. If he could tap one or both ends, it may provide a nice chunk of weight just behind the broadhead and allow the adaptor to screw into it. The possibilities are endless aren’t they!

jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #35992

David Petersen wrote: Jans — I use the CE250s with 450 grains up front: 225 Tuffhead with 100 grain adapter and 125 grain insert. The shafts weigh about 350 and I total out just below 800 total. But this is an elk setup that I never shoot beyond 20 yards … it’s my shooting skill that limites me more than any trajectory problems.

For deer, antelope, turkey etc. I drop back 100 grains or more in head weight but not sure why.

I know there are many far superior carbon shafts out there but I know nothing about them. Being a very reluctant carbon shooter, I somehow got started with CEs and since they work I’ve stuck with them. Many folks here know more about the various carbon options than I do. While you don’t need a heavy arrow set-up for pronghorn, so long as it shoots to your satisfaction “there’s no such thing as over-kill” in hunting arrows, while opportunities for being under-gunned lurk behind every magazine advertisement (except TBM of course). 😀

Ha! You guys are all great! I really appreciate all of the advice and support! It’s a bunch of trad mentors on line:) I think I am going to take the same approach i use when shooting long range rifles. Use a heavy bullet, shoot often, and use the same gun and bullet set up on everything:) That being said I already know those willy goats will taunt me out at the maximum range I am comfortable with again this year:) Seems they know just how close to let me belly crawl through the cactus and sage. Maybe they enjoy the sight of self torment?:)

I’m headed to the archery shop to see what kind of shafts I can find to fill the bill. I will keep you guys posted on what I come up with.

Many thanks,

Jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #35270

Troy Breeding wrote: Jans,

I mainly used the Victory VMaxx HV 300 shafts in my testing. You can get them in alot of proshops as well as on line or even from Victory.

I’ve also used the Beman Bowhunter. Several of the others have used the Gold Tip Ultra lite Entrada shaft.

As for basic shooting you can cut and fletch the remainder of your shafts after finding what shoots best.

For my hunting arrows I test each and every shaft. It’s just something that gives me peace of mind.

Troy

And another question if I may:) with these EFOC/UEFOC setups, I have noticed your testing is out to 20/25 yrds. Is that the realistic range with such a setup due to the weight and drop past that? How do they shoot at 30-40 yrds? I’m not saying I take shots that far with a recurve, but I do try and practice to 30. Are they still accurate or is it realistic to make that shot with a UEFOC shaft?

I’m kinda like a kid in a candy store with all of this:)

Jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #35267

David Petersen wrote: A decent “economy” shaft is the Carbon Express, which takes all standard internals. I’ve killed a couple of elk with them and a deer and never had one fail. I’m shooting around 27% FOC with these.

Are you getting those in a 350 spine? or what should I be looking for?

jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #35263

Troy Breeding wrote: Jans,

I mainly used the Victory VMaxx HV 300 shafts in my testing. You can get them in alot of proshops as well as on line or even from Victory.

I’ve also used the Beman Bowhunter. Several of the others have used the Gold Tip Ultra lite Entrada shaft.

As for basic shooting you can cut and fletch the remainder of your shafts after finding what shoots best.

For my hunting arrows I test each and every shaft. It’s just something that gives me peace of mind.

Troy

Thanks Troy, Like I told Dave, I am going to look at those tomorrow too:). What kind of broadhead are you using? I have been looking at the grizzlies and the tuffheads. I like the price of the grizzlies, but really like the weight and the build of the tuffheads! they seem to have made a broadhead with all of the “Ashby” attributes he found to make a really leathal and efficiant broadhead. They also make heavy field tips to practice with and tune arrows! I looked at the new Eclipse broad heads that screw in, but I think I want something heavier than 200 grns. Any ideas?

Season is just around the corner and I have to get these dialed in. Antelope opens the middle of August and I just can’t wait to get out there, much less use one of these bad boys.

Appreciate the help!

jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #35261

David Petersen wrote: A decent “economy” shaft is the Carbon Express, which takes all standard internals. I’ve killed a couple of elk with them and a deer and never had one fail. I’m shooting around 27% FOC with these.

Thanks Dave, I am going to look at those tomorrow. What kind of broadhead are you using? I have been looking at the grizzlies and the tuffheads. I like the price of the grizzlies, but really like the weight and the build of the tuffheads! they seem to have made a broadhead with all of the “Ashby” attributes he found to make a really leathal and efficiant broadhead. They also make heavy field tips to practice with and tune arrows!:)

Appreciate the help!

jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #33655

Troy Breeding wrote: Go to the Friends of FOC Forum and read the thread “Tied the threads together”

I think this will tell you alot about what you are looking for.

I did a lot of testing and reported it in several different threads. Then put them all together under one thread.

Troy

Troy

Wow, you have spent a lot of time testing this out! Good work! I still am wondering what type of shaft to start with? what brand/model have you had good results with that I can find fairly easily? I’m looking for a light and strong/stiff shaft that has brass inserts available right? Is there one more affordable than another? I can see how this can get expensive if I mess some up while tuning!

One thing I didn’t understand but might have missed from the threads. Once I tune a couple shafts and figure out what the length should be for the weight i’m using with my bow, can I cut and fletch my remaining shafts accordingly? Or do you tune every shaft to the bow because the spine varies?

jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: FOC, Tieing the threads together #31510

Troy or Ed,

I have been reading up on the threads on FOC, love it! I think i am starting to understand where I need to go with things to get there. In a nutshell if i’m not mistaken, we are trying to take the lightest strong spined shaft and stick as much weight up front with the smallest A&A fletching plus turbulator and thrown in some good bare shaft tuning before we end up with our custome lawn darts. right?:) I still don’t know which is a really good, affordable carbon shaft to start out with? Do you have any sugestions? One that will take a good brass insert+weight?

also, i don’t remember what the formula was for calculating FOC.

Ed was talking about tuning bare shafts but leaving them still hiting around 1 1/2 inches right (i’m a righty) before fletching? That didn’t make sense to me.

Any help would be appreciated!!

Jans

[jpcarlson]

in reply to: Building EFOC/UEFOC hunting arrows #30415

I will do some more reading and get back to you. Thanks for the support guys! I find it hard to find any experienced traditional shooters around where I live and I work well with Mentors. Seems that all of my hunting buddies either just use compounds and don’t get it, or they use traditional equipment once in a while and are not serious enough about it to really dig in and try to learn new/old info and better their set up. Seems it would be easier to learn how to set up and tune a better arrow for their traditional equipment and have the fun of it shooting better, thus perpetuating the fun:)

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