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in reply to: cutting carbon? #31120
If you already have a Dremel and a cut off wheel, all you need is some scrap wood and screws. Heck, you could even clamp the Dremel to a work bench and get by just fine.
Push the side of the shaft into the cut off wheel until it penetrates the wall, and then slowly spin it to complete the cut. As long as the cut off wheel is perpendicular to the shaft, your cut will be perfectly straight. This is where some kind of home made jig comes in handy, which brings us back to the scrap wood and screws.
Save your money and don’t buy an arrow saw. For the price of a saw, you could buy a brand new Dremel and have money left over. Plus, you now have a Dremel tool to use for other things.
in reply to: Bow Making #28770I personally don’t care much for black walnut as a riser wood, especially where longbows are concerned. Compared to most customary exotics, or even a domestic hardwood like maple, walnut is somewhat brittle.
in reply to: Bow Making #28227Go to Bignham’s website. Their videos are excellent and they offer plans for several different varieties of bows. I’ve had nothing but excellent service from them.
in reply to: Dave Johnson — Thunderbird Archery #26938That’s incredibly unfortunate. My sincerest condolences to his friends and family.
in reply to: back to traditional; bow advice #17125Steve is correct. Draw length is measured at full draw from the string (i.e. throat of the nock) to the throat of the grip plus 1.75” (which usually corresponds to the back of the riser). So having someone mark the arrow at the far side of the riser at full draw will generally give you that measurement.
in reply to: Broadhead Trade #14761The only Deadhead I have is the one in the photo, and I’m guessing it’s the smaller model. If you have some measurements, I’ll be happy to compare.
in reply to: who was your mentor? #13865Don,
I’m sorry to hear about your father. As far as mentors is concerned (outdoors, bowhuntung etc.) mine was my paternal grandfather. He’s been gone 21 years now, but I still think about him every time I string a bow or cast a line.
in reply to: Broadhead Trade #54016TJ,
I’ll set aside one of each of the packages for you and post a list of the Ace heads I have (it’s a lot shorter list than the ones I’m missing).
The old Ace heads I have are:
Hi-Speed: both paralel tube ferrule and the ones you sold me (older ITF).
Standard: both tapered tube ferrule and parallel tube ferrule.
Jet: both 2- and 4-blade with ITF.
Alaskan 4-blade ITF.
-Jason
in reply to: Carbon Shaft 2nd's #53170Update:
I just got off the phone with my friend who bought the discount shafts. He called the dealer to tell them about the mismatch in spines and eventually came to a resolution, but not before being called a variety of unpleasant things. Apparently the rep he spoke to was named “I Don’t Have Time For This Crap.” At least, that’s what the guy kept saying over and over again.
At the end of the conversation, my friend was told he’d get a refund. At least he won’t be out any money (hopefully), but it’s absurd that people should get an earful of nonsense from a dealer who advertises gold and sells garbage.
Buyer beware, I suppose.
in reply to: Stingers and Razorcaps #50043I have a friend who use to shoot Razorcaps. One day, while shooting in his basement, he missed his target and hit the poured concrete foundation (much harder than cinder blocks).
Not only did the head stick in the concrete, but came back out completely intact and straight. I was impressed.
in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #48162StandingBear wrote: You know folks, with very little effort and a bit of patience, you can get both the Zwickey and Ribtek shaving sharp with a file and medium croc stick.
Both broadheads easily cut through paper and shaved the hair off my arm.
I completey agree. A file and a crock stick are what I’ve used for years. It’s simple, easy, and fits nicely in a pack. Just for grins, I looked at some of my broadheads under a loupe. The edges look like the ones in your photo, which I was glad to see.
When you get the time, could you elaborate on the advantages of the bevel you showed in the Thunderhead photo? I know razor blades are ground that way, and I’ve always wondered about the advantages.
in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #47680Where’s the fracture? Is it that light line above the dark spot in the green?
By the looks of the edge, it appears you pushed the file into the edge. If you sharpen by laying the file flat and drawing the broadhead back to front down the file (so the file is really working along the bevel instead of into it), would this minimize fractures?
in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #47596Great stuff! I’ll have to dig up that issue and re-read the article.
J-dog wrote: Well when you tote a 1100 grain arrow and 90# compound you are carrying a sledge hammer to do a job that the Doc showed can be accomplished with the framing hammer!
Fair enough, so long as you don’t hit the shoulder blade. In that case, we know the sledge hammer will still work. But the framing hammer?
Dead is dead and 1100 grain arrows could stop a freight train. BUT the point is that a longbow which was lighter #/less efficient with optimized arrows achieved the same results.
That was my point as well: they both achieved the same results (barring impact with the shoulder blade), just like both my grandfather’s setup and mine achieved the same results. But that’s not exactly the same as saying his was more efficient. Until we get to the level where one or the other fails to achieve complete penetration, we haven’t tested their limits. So we don’t have enough data to draw that conclusion.
Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: The significant difference in penetration between the Study’s penetration-maximized arrow and the arrow used in Mr. Lefemine’s test is the amount of penetration achieved (the “work” done) relative to the force required to accomplish that work. That, in physics, is efficiency; doing more work with less applied effort.
EdEd,
I’m not trying to be disagreeable. I suppose being an analyst by profession, I like to pick things apart and look at them thoroughly.
I still don’t see any “significant difference in penetration” between the two setups. Complete penetration is complete penetration. I suppose if I had to point to an actual difference, it would be that Pat’s setup also achieved complete penetration after shooting through both the shoulder blade and a rib. I’ll readily admit I don’t know the intricate details of buffalo anatomy, but I have to believe that a cape buffalo’s shoulder blade is tougher to shoot through than a water buffalo’s hide.
I’m also not sure about the efficiency you mentioned. Using the same type of comparisons as above in this thread, I could easily make a case that my grandfather’s setup was more efficient than mine.
His recurve pulled 42# @ 26”. He shot swagged aluminum arrows with 3-blade 125-grain cut-on-impact heads. His arrows weighed about 460 grains and they flew around 160-170 fps. My 56# @ 32” recurve shoots 500-grain carbons tipped with 125-grain cut-on-impact 2-blade heads at 200 fps.
Since we both do (or used to, in his case) routinely shoot completely through whitetails, does that mean his setup was more efficient than mine (despite my heavier arrows, higher Ke and momentum, higher FOC, and 2-blade heads)? No. It means we both have/had enough to do the job.
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