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in reply to: F.O.C vs. Dynamic spine. #48973
Stu’s calculator is nice, but it’s only a ballpark starting point. From there, proper tuning will tell you exactly what you should be shooting. This really isn’t a FOC issue; it’s a tuning issue.
in reply to: Wisconsin Traditional Archers #44295Tom,
I’ve never really looked into the WTA, but I’ve been a WBH member for the past several years. I should probably look into joining the WTA.
in reply to: Center Shot ain't always good! #38174Patrick wrote:
I guess I was thinking of it more theoretically, not necessarily with either fingers or a release. Prior to reading Dr Ashby’s report, I’d NEVER heard anyone say an arrow precisely centered would need to be stiffer spined, and in fact figured it was a no-brainer that the opposite would be true. I’m having a difficult time understanding how that is. I’m not disagreeing with Dr Ashby, I’m just trying to wrap my head around the concept…unsuccessfully so far.I completely understand. Sometimes these things can be a bit confusing. Here’s how it works.
For a finger shooter, an arrow will flex side-to-side a given amount during the shot. How much it flexes is determined by a few different factors, but let’s isolate the major contributor, its dynamic spine. The weaker the shaft, the more it flexes. The further from center cut a bow is built, the more the arrow will have to flex to get around the riser (weaker arrow). Conversely, the closer to center cut the bow is built, the less the arrow will have to flex to get around the riser (stiffer arrow).
Let’s assume you have a perfectly tuned arrow and are shooting a recurve cut to center (remember, not center shot, but center cut). Your arrow flexes just enough to get around the riser as-is. If you build out your strike plate 3/8”, your arrow is now too stiff to properly flex around the riser, and you will now need a weaker dynamic spine (weaker shaft or more tip weight).
The opposite holds true if you properly tune for 3/8” from center cut, and then move your strike plate in 3/8”. Arrows that used to properly flex around the riser are now flexing more than they need to (i.e. they’re too weak) and you’ll need to increase your dynamic spine.
in reply to: Center Shot ain't always good! #38137Patrick wrote: Wow, VERY interesting! From what you’re saying Dr Ashby, it seems to me that with perfect center shot the release becomes even more critical, because just the slightest flaw in form can cause the arrow to want to go right OR left.
EDIT: The more I think about my supposition, the more I think I’m off target.
I don’t know about the wanting to go left or right part (never looked into it; never needed to) but it’s been common knowledge for many decades that setting up a bow for perfect center shot is a huge no-no for finger shooters. That’s why you won’t find any tuning guides out there that suggest otherwise.
I don’t know if it’s been mentioned yet in this thread, but there is an important distinction between center shot and center cut. Center cut is when a bow’s sight window is cut to the exact center of the bow. Center shot is when the center of the arrow shaft is in line with the center of the bow. Because of the diameter of the arrow shaft, the only way to get perfect center shot is to have a sight window that’s cut at least half the width of the arrow shaft beyond center. In reality, the widow would have to be cut ever further beyond center than that due to the thickness of the strike plate.
in reply to: Group sizes? #35571Chris,
An NFAA indoor round is shot at 20 yards.
in reply to: Sighting Question #35077If you’re looking for a comprehensive breakdown of different aiming methods, the Masters of the Barebow DVDs are excellent. Volumes I and II get into the nuts and bolts of aiming. As far as books are concerned, T.J. Conrads’, Traditional Bowhunter’s Handbook is hard to beat.
in reply to: Builders of custom broadheads #34461That sounds like a very good idea. I suppose that’s one of the reasons I like Ace Standards so much; the ferrule extends so far toward the tip that it’s very easy to see if I’m starting to get off line one way or the other.
in reply to: How do you hang your bow? #32307For hunting out of treestands, I use one of the short EZ Hangers. A Kwik-Loc keeps my nocked arrow from falling off of my bow. All in all, it’s a simple and foolproof setup.
Edit:
Ed, I see you replied on the other forum while I was typing here. Thanks.
in reply to: messing with arrow weight? #60815Generally speaking, I don’t mess around with switching arrows and the like during hunting season. I used to do that in the past and always ended up regretting it.
I have to agree with Jerry, which is nothing new. When it comes to photography, I take his word as gospel.
That being said, my camera work is split between a DSLR and a point and shoot. While I really enjoy using my Canon 20D (now a dinosaur), the weight and bulk of a DSLR pretty much means it stays behind when I’m hunting. IF I’m not out to specifically take photographs, I bring my Canon Powershot SX100IS along.
The only thing I don’t like about my point & shoot is that it doesn’t shoot in RAW mode. I didn’t think I’d miss RAW when I bought it, but I was wrong. If I had that purchase to do over again, I’d go with the Canon G11.
in reply to: Ideal Broadhead weight #48460My ideal broadhead weight is whatever tunes the best for my setup. That being said, I can count on one finger the number of broadheads I’ve used over the years that didn’t weigh 125 grains.
in reply to: Heavy Bows – Are they now a part of our past #45089I think what’s popular with respect to draw weight comes and goes. People figured out a long time ago that you don’t need 80# bows to kill big game in North America — long before the term EFOC was a thought in anyone’s mind. Look at the draw weight of used hunting bows from the 50s and 60s. You won’t see many over 60#.
At some point a couple decades ago people started jumping up in draw weight again. Maybe it had something to do with compound bows being the norm and trying to match their energy? I honestly don’t know. But I do remember when I started bowhunting in the mid-80s and my paternal grandfather told me, “You don’t need but 40# to kill a deer.” Of course, he was correct.
I remember when I did the Kustom King interview for TBM and the subject of draw weight came up. Tim and Gabby told me that several years ago no one wanted to buy a 45# bow, and these days they don’t keep anything 60# or heavier in stock due to lack of demand. I suspect at some point in the coming years, higher draw weight will become popular again, and we’ll once again have to relearn the fact that shot placement beats horse power every time.
in reply to: Broadhead Trade #44007If I’m not mistaken, the PTF (parallel tube ferrule) was made between the mid-40s and around 1956 or 1957. By that time, Ace went to the TTF (tapered tube ferrule). That lasted for a couple years or so until they switched to the ITF (interlocking tapered ferrule).
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