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in reply to: Helle knife kit #53833
I agree completely on the quality of Helle’s stainless steel blades. They are incredible. My favorite is the Polar model, which I dress up with antler and osage handles and home made leather sheaths. In moose camp several years ago I ended up skinning not one, but two bull moose with a Polar blade, which is not even remotely the right tool for that job (too small). The nice thing is that it held it’s edge so well I don’t recall having to touch it up during either animal.
in reply to: Help with camcorder purchase #53622Troy Breeding wrote: Joe,
The main reason for wanting a camcorder is to see the slomo or frame by frame of the arrows/shafts paradox out of the bow as well as well as what the shaft/arrow is doing when it hit the target.
Troy
Unfortunately, you’re just not going get even remotely decent footage of that at 30 or even 60 frames per second. Footage like the paradox clip you posted from Youtube is generally shot on high speed cameras with frame rates in the thousands. Even a slow arrow at 150 fps travels half the distance of a football field by the time most consumer camcorders captures 30 frames.
in reply to: what do your arrows cost? #53459My regular hunting arrows run a little over $9.00 each (shaft: $4.00, insert: $.50, fletching: $.80, broadhead: $4.00, and probably a few cents in glue and paint.
My target arrow are closer to $5.00, and small game arrows are around a dollar total.
in reply to: How many bows do you have? #52978Aside from bows I’ve made, three that have been handed down in my family, and the bows my daughter and wife shoot, I have the following:
TradTech Titan riser with two sets of Winex limbs. I use the long limbs primarily and the mediums for spring turkey hunting from ground blinds. This is the bow I use for competition and nearly all of my hunting, sans fish and some small game.
1960 Wilson Brothers Black Widow. I use this bow for a lot of small game hunting and the occasional deer hunt when I get the itch to hunt larger game with a classic recurve. I haven’t drawn on a deer with it yet, but one of these days that will change.
1962 Root Game-Master I bought off eBay several years ago to use for bowfishing. I couldn’t begin to guess how many rough fish I’ve taken with that old recurve.
Chek-Mate Hunter II. It was my go-to bow for the 2002 season, but has seen little field time since.
Thunderstick MOAB longbow. Jim Reynolds donated it for the UBI banquet years ago and I decided the bidding had stalled too low. I didn’t plan on buying it, but the other bidder and I apparently had the same high bid numbers in our heads, and I hit got there first. It’s a great bow, and I used it to kill a whitetail buck the next season. Since I prefer to shoot recurves, it’s mostly collected dust for the past few years.
in reply to: Paper tuning #52965Doug Krueger wrote: All right I think I have gotten to the bottom of it. what I forgot to mention to you guys is that I have 5 gpi weight tubes in my arrows. I was under the impression that weight tubes did not play any factor in changing spine? I took your advise about possible to stiff of spine. I took the tube out and added 300 grains up front to try to weaken it a little and i think it worked. The paper tear was a little nock high and in the failing light the bare shaft seemed to fly like a dart. I backed up to 25 with a fletched arrow and it sailed perfectly. I will need to confirm tomorrow in better light but boy am I excited right now. My new question is will there be a difference between a 250 grain head with a 50 gr brass insert and a straight up 300 grain field point. I am curios because I need to either buy 250 bhs with the 50 gr inserts or 300 gr bhs.
Thanks for everything
DK
Excellent! Every now and then a hunch pays off. Weight tubes will slightly stiffen dynamic spine because they essentially distribute dead weight throughout the shaft. With the normal two to three grains per inch tubes it’s not very noticeable. At five grains per inch it becomes more apparent.
Stock Beman RPS inserts for the ICS shafts (the ones that come with the shafts) weight 24 grains, so with a stock insert and a 300-grain head you’re at a total of 324 grains up front. Let’s just call it 325 grains. With a 50-grain brass insert and a 250-grain head you’re at 300 grains total. The 25 grains difference will affect tuning, so switching to the brass insert and 250-grain heads will stiffen your dynamic spine slightly. If you need a total of 324 grains up front for proper tuning, you have a lot of choices with respect to hunting arrows:
Glue-in adapter (24-grain aluminum, or brass weighing 75, 100, or 125 grains) and a 300-, 250-, or 225-, or 200-grain glue-on head depending on adapter weight. For the record, I don’t know if anyone makes a 225- or 250-grain head.
And then of course you can mix and match RPS inserts (24-grain stock, 50-grain brass, or 100-grain brass) with either screw in broadheads or glue-on heads and screw-in adapters (25- or 43-grains for aluminum, or 75-, 100, or 125-grains for steel).
Depending on which inserts you use, you could use heads as heavy as 300 grains or as light as 100 grains. So realistically, your broadhead choices are limitless. Find whatever head you like and select the proper inserts to get the total weight up front you need. Personally, I’d use the heaviest head in the model you like (for maximum strength in the head) and then choose the appropriate inserts to get up to 325 grains.
in reply to: Paper tuning #52763Doug,
To answer your question, is it “imperative” that you paper tune at six feet? I suppose not, but if your arrows are leaving the bow nock high (consistently or intermittently) there is a problem that should be corrected. Why? You said it yourself when you mentioned that occasionally you will see your nock kick up and (with broadheads) your shot will hit low. That’s what happens when a broadhead-tipped arrow leaves the bow out of tune. That’s also why there are so many threads on internet forums about broadheads wind planing—it’s not a broadhead issue so much as a tuning issue. The last thing I want when I drop the string on an animal is to not know where my arrow will hit.
That being said, I think your arrow spine sounds like it may
be a touch stiff. I shoot full length ICS 340s with 125-grain tips (145 total including insert) out of a high performance recurve pulling 56# @ 32”. You said you’re shooting an NAP Flipper rest, and that’s a great choice. I’ve used them myself for a very long time. You also said you have two nock locators (one above and one below with a small gap), so we can rule out nock slide as an issue.
If you don’t mind, I’d like to ask a few questions.
1) Is your arrow flight problem consistent or intermittent? Does it happen all the time, or at random?
2) Are you sure you’re drawing 32” and releasing at that length? The reason I ask is that I can’t begin to count all the times I’ve shot with someone who said they drew x-amount but really drew an inch or three shorter. I’ve also seen far too many instances where an archer actually drew to the length he thought, but collapsed an inch or two by the time he released.
3) As odd as this sounds, you may possibly have an arrow spine issue. One of the problem with being overspined is that the back end of the arrow can impact the sight window of the riser. This can cause all sorts of odd readings when it comes to tuning. Just as an experiment, you may want to try tuning with a heavier point, or a similarly set up 340 instead of a 300.
Paper tuning is fine, and I’ve used it myself for the better part of 30 years. But in my opinion, it’s like measuring something with a ruler instead of a dial caliper—good for a rough idea, but possibly not the best choice for a more precise measurement. Of course, there are tuning procedures even more precise than bare shaft tuning, but that’s another topic entirely
in reply to: Paper tuning #52505Steve Graf wrote: Some folks and some bows just work that way.
I have found that adding a nockset under the arrow can really help keep the arrow from kicking. My guess is that if the arrow is leaving the bow correctly in all other regards, adding the lower nock set will fix you up.
Be sure to leave at least 1/16 inch extra space between the bottom of the arrow nock and the nock set. Otherwise at full draw your arrow will get pinched and the nock might get cracked.
Doug,
What Steve posted is excellent advise. That being said, what kind of rest are you using? Some are a lot more forgiving than others.
in reply to: More archers paradox #50257pothunter wrote:
However as Dave P pointed out the in the slow mo footage the shaft of the arrow was still rotating in the target suggesting that a combination of the arrows rotation and a single bevel drive the broadhead in such a manner as to create the helical wound channels and damage to bone.
It will be very interesting to read Doc. Ashby’s comments on this footage.
Perhaps I missed something, but I didn’t see any broadheads on those arrows.
in reply to: More archers paradox #49674vintage archer wrote: Troy strange looking rest for a bow in the paper testing video.It sure looks like a casket.I am glad there are mutiple uses for them:D Both are great jut one a little creepy:lol:
Joe,
The gentleman who made the paper tuning video is a funeral director and shot the video (along with a few others) at his place of employment.
in reply to: More archers paradox #49667Ireland wrote:
The Easton video is outstanding! Most archery shops in the early 1990’s had the video for viewing. It would be great to have it posted here.
Ireland
I remember that video too. It was the first time I saw high speed video of a bow and arrow during the shot. To say it was eye opening would be an understatement. I wish I could find a copy of it somewhere.
Another good one from back then was the tuning video Easton put out with Jay Barrs after he won his Olympic gold in ’88. That was probably the first time I saw bare shaft tuning not only explained so easily, but done so thoroughly. Looking back, I also find it interesting that what we as bowhunters consider fine tuning, Olympic shooters consider a good starting point. Their attnetion to detail is amazing.
in reply to: Native Finds #49344I’ve only ever found one stone arrowhead. Several years ago I was squirrel hunting some hilly property along the Fox river when I decided to slip up a narrow ravine toward some oak trees. About halfway up the ravine I looked to my right and there, at eye level on the side of the ravine, was a pristine little white stone head. I suppose that place was a good hunting spot hundreds of years ago too.
in reply to: Shooting to left, consistently… #48502gobbler716 wrote: I have a Ben Pearson, 45# recurve, 28″ draw, 29″ 2117 aluminum arrows, short shelf, feathers…not vanes. I consistently shoot to the left of bulls eye @ 10 yards. Why? I know I am not left eye dominant. Don’t think I am torquing the grip too much, trying to keep a looser grip. What do you guys think?:oops:
Troy beat me to it. A 2117 is WAY overspined for a 45# recurve drawn 28#, especially an older one with a Dacron string. That will make your arrows shoot to the left for a right handed archer.
in reply to: Noteable Quotes! #47227Thornbush Archery wrote: “You don’t have a soul. You are a Soul. You have a body.”
C.S. Lewis quotes
Reminds me to focus on the important things in life.
I really like that one. Thanks for sharing it.
in reply to: Noteable Quotes! #46947“The Lord giveth, and the Lord taketh away, but He is no longer the only one to do so. When some remote ancestor of ours invented the shovel, he became a giver: he could plant a tree. And when the axe was invented, he became a taker: he could chop it down. Whoever owns land has thus assumed, whether he knows it or not, the divine functions of creating and destroying plants.”
-Aldo Leopold
in reply to: Nock High Every Time #45929You may also want to try a second nock locator under your arrow. Leave about 1/16″ gap. Oftentimes an inability to tune out nock high when shooting off the shelf is due to your nocks sliding down the serving during the shot. This can cause the back of the arrow to bounce off the shelf, making tuning impossible.
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