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in reply to: How far will you shoot? #18767
I have a somewhat simplistic way of setting my personal “everything is perfect” shot distance on various big game animals. I take the distance at which I can keep all my arrows (sans the very rare flyer – I’m not perfect) well within the kill zone of that species (a 3D target 8-ring is good), deduct a third, and then scale back from there as appropriate. For example, unless I can keep all my arrows in the 8-ring of a whitetail target at 30 yards, there’s no way I’d attempt to shoot a live, healthy one at 20.
in reply to: longer distances #18753The only way to expand your effective range is to get out and practice at those distances. If you want to be good enough to put an arrow through an elk’s lungs at 30 yards, be able to do it in practice at 40+.
in reply to: What ya got goin? #16607I have a little work around to thouse to do today and a bunch of us are shooting the IBO state championship tomorrow. Next weekend I’ll be heading up to our property in WI to see about filling a turkey tag, planting about a hundred spruce seedlings, install the well pump, and de-winterize the camper.
in reply to: split vs three finger #11902Loupnoir,
I don’t see how switching from split-finger to three-under would make for easier drawing of the bow, unless you switch to a lower anchor, which could have some biomechanical advantage. Yes, changing how you hold the string may require a minor nock locator adjustment. This is due to the slight difference in how your limbs load up due to holding the string in a slightly different location. It’s not enough to fret over, and tuning will tell you if you need to move it and by how much.
in reply to: Great Hunting Knife Sharpener That Really Works #8043I use something very similar to touch up my deboning knife during butchering. They’re extremely handy.
in reply to: Fastest production recurve?? #8040makesmoosecry wrote: first to Alex, i got a kick outta seeing you are from Allentown, im from Bethlehem now living in Ky.. anyhow, thanks so far i should have said for a hunting set up!
Makesmoosecry,
I apologize if some of the following is a bit of a non-answer. To me, and this goes for both target and hunting bows, speed is a priority, but it’s not the priority. You can absolutely find hunting bows that are fast and forgiving, stable, smooth, and accurate. You can also find speed demon stickbows that are better suited for shooting through chronographs than animals. I’ve shot several bows over the years that were extremely fast, but so twitchy I’d never consider hunting with one. I only say that as a caveat; beware if you buy a bow based solely on chronograph numbers.
More to the point of your question, I’d suggest you go to the below link. It’s the web site for Blacky Schwarz, a masthead contributor for TBM who write all their bow reviews. You can sift through his online data for all he bows he’s tested and see how they compare on a number of different levels, including speed. Whatever you decide, always try to shoot a particular bow before you buy one. In the end, the most important thing is how it feels and shoots for you, not any of us.
in reply to: Fastest production recurve?? #7689Makesmoosecry,
I don’t pretend to have the definitive answer to your question, but I’ll start out by saying the following is not my suggestion for any type of hunting bow.
If you’re looking for raw speed, then you’re looking for something that will handle extremely light arrows. In that regard, I would highly suggest a machined aluminum riser and carbon/foam ILF limbs. These combinations are used by World Cup and Olympic archers shooting under 7 gpp tens, if not hundreds, of thousands of times per year. They’re also used by many 3D archers shooting 5 gpp. A good friend of mine has competed with a Spigarelli riser and Winex limbs pulling 5 gpp for several years. My personal target setup pulls 44# @ 32” and shoots a 242-grain arrow 235 fps. The nice thing is they are also very forgiving and accurate. Again…not even remotely a hunting setup, and I would never suggest anyone try that with a bow not build to handle it.
in reply to: Fletching color #55251I am a firm believer in brightly colored fletching and nocks on hunting arrows. With target arrows I take the opposite approach, but that’s another discussion My eyes may not be as good as most, so I need all the help I can get seeing my hunting arrows in flight with my peripheral vision. That’s one of the reasons I use bright orange and yellow fletching on my hunting arrows. I’ve killed deer with my bow during gun season (legal in WI) while wearing the mandatory 500 square inches of blaze orange, so I don’t see how anything I hunt (sans turkeys) will be spooked by a few feathers glued to my arrows.
in reply to: You've got to be kidding me!!! #53269Honestly, nothing surprises me anymore since the Deer View Mirror, the Acorn Cruncher, the hunting suit that supposedly keeps deer from reading our minds, and that rediculous toilet seat that slides into the rear hitch of a truck (thankfully, it says not to use when the vehicle is moving).
in reply to: Moose (Not Chocolate)… #48367Alex,
I have some experience with moose (hopefully someone with more will chime in soon). Between a good friend of mine and me, we’ve killed three with archery tackle. Mine was with a homemade recurve, his two were with compounds. I only mention my friend’s bulls here because of the video.
On mine, the first shot was broadside at 11 yards. The arrow passed through both lungs, split a rib vertically on the off side, exited the animal, and flew off into the cutover. The bull trotted 10 yards or so, turned broadside, and stopped to look at me. So I shot him again. That arrow passed completely through as well. Total arrow weight was 499 grains on my digital scale, including a 125-grain broadhead.
On my friend’s first moose, he got a complete double lung pass through at around 27 yards with a XX75 2213 and a 125-grain broadhead. A few years later he killed his second bull at 45 yards slightly quartering away with a double lung shot that only failed to pass completely through the animal because it imbedded in the off side shoulder. He was shooting carbon arrows at that time, with the same type of 125-grain broadhead he used on his first bull. With both moose, my friend’s arrows weighed somewhere between 450 and 500 grains.
When I shot my bull, we had another gentleman in camp that shot a moose with archery tackle, but his kill turned into an unfortunate rodeo because, despite my repeated offers, he didn’t want to properly tune his bow. His arrows flew like trash, and the fact that it took him four of them over two days to kill his bull reflected that fact.
I don’t know anything about the gentleman in your video or his equipment, so it’s impossible for me to say with any degree of certainty why he didn’t get better penetration. But I’ve killed more than enough animals to know if you get it sharp, get it flying straight, and get it where it belongs, you should have no trouble. And if you fail on any of those three, no amount of anything else will guarantee success.
Several years ago I met a guy at a 3D shoot—very nice fellow—with a longbow that was all the rage (and rightfully so) as far as energy and speed were concerned. I asked him how he liked his bow, and he replied he’d shot two whitetail does with it and had failed to get a pass through on ether. His bow pulled high 60s for poundage and he was shooting very heavy wood arrows. By any function one could spit out of a calculator (Ke, momentum, whatever), his setup had more lethality than what I used to shoot through my moose, so I was a little confused as to his lack of penetration. When I saw his arrows fly, all doubt disappeared. The last time I saw something barrel roll that badly I was watching a roller coaster at Six Flags. I politely suggested he may wish to take another look at his tuning, he said his arrows flew “like darts,” we left it at that.
I suppose my point is that you shouldn’t get rattled by a video on the internet, especially when the cause of the problem is unknown. I’ve seen folks who can’t get an arrow through a whitetail button buck with setups that, on paper, should be blowing through elk all day long. Nine times out of the proverbial ten the problem isn’t the equipment; it’s the operator.
in reply to: The Non-Trad Knife Thread #48363I’m not sure what makes a knife trad or non-trad, but for the past few years I’ve been very partial to an old Buck Crosslock for field dressing and skinning.
in reply to: Helle Knives #46164My favorite is the Polar, although I see they’ve added a few new blades since I purchased mine. Helle blades are excellent, to say the least.
in reply to: Longbow Turkey #44153Congrats on a fine bird!
I honestly couldn’t tell you who made the arm guard I use most of he time. I probably got it off some vendor table at a shoot many years ago. The large one I wear over a heavy jacket for hunting is a leather one with “Grizzly and Wolverine Broadheads” stamped into it. I got it at Gander Mountain of all places, ten or so years ago.
in reply to: What broadheads do you like? #40228Ausjim,
Aren’t Ribteks still being made in Australia? I’ve heard nothing but great things from friends who’ve used them.
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