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in reply to: Take-down Longbow and Recurve laminations? #45491

I once helped a scout troup build their own wood bows. I helped by connecting the troup leader to a guy that provided them with bows about 50% complete, and they did the rest.

Personally that was an excellent idea (not mine unfortunately) because the rough work was done and he gave them great instructions on how to do the finish tillering. My understanding was the kids loved it and was a great success.

The guy is still in business doing that and more from what I understand.

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in reply to: Take-down Longbow and Recurve laminations? #45402

Then is when you use a backing like hickory or similar. Does a LOT to strengthen a bow, in my experience.

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in reply to: Take-down Longbow and Recurve laminations? #38528

I have built about a dozen bows, and some of them actually came out decent. It’s trickier than it seems. Frankly I never came within the desired poundage. How’s that for a confidence builder :lol:?

Seriously, I went be Binghams formulae and never got it right. Hopefully the folks here know a better way. I had WAY better luck with wood bows.

Good luck on yours. It’s a blast in the process though.

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in reply to: board bow build question #32711

Just a quick google search shows 3rivers has some, probably already trimmed to correct thickness.

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in reply to: board bow build question #31561

Try the hickory. Just don’t make it too thin.

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in reply to: board bow build question #29807

I have made quite a number of board bows and backed every one of them with hickory. If I do my tillering correctly, I haven’t had one break yet.

If you go with about an 70-80″ bow I’d use about 1/8-3/16″ hickory backing. I use epoxy on my backing also, never had one separate, where I have had separation with traditional glues.

When I build up the riser/shelf area, I place a couple staples in the wood, trimming them down to just enough proud to catch your fingers. Then glue them up and clamp together. The staples will keep them from sliding around during clamp up.

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in reply to: TIP OF THE WEEK #27827

jpc wrote: Yes this is what I’m talking about

Languages are fun Mastic in French is a paste to fix glass on wooden Windows ( ! )

Anyway, this product I and 99% French 3D archers use is not the shippest but gives best results

I also use it to glue multi pieces 3D targets when too old

Otherwise, I repair one side, returns the target to let it dry and shoot non-repaired side

On average 3 to 6 days for drying depending on temperature, and thickness

You should try , sure for one ( and may be first ) time French archers teach something to their American friends… LoL…. :roll::idea::roll::oops:

All one has to do is look at history to see the French and English have just a tad few more years at archery than Americans. We can all learn a lot from archery history.

Can you post a picture of the stuff you use to fix the targets with?

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in reply to: Tendonitis? #39982

Etter1

One thing to consider, is that EVERY injury we have while younger, WILL come back to haunt us.

If I were you I would strongly re-evaluate your workout routine. By that, I mean to consider a workout designed for muscle longevity rather that overall strength. One with high reps of low weights. Ever wonder why you see no (or darn few) gray haired power lifters? The muscles and joints cannot take continued extreme heavy use.

On the other hand you can see older folks running, cycling and swimming, sometimes to pretty extreme distances. Our muscles change, just like the rest of our bodies, and there are turning points we have to be aware of.

Those of us with a few (or a lot) of gray hairs on our heads, learn to compensate with our heads, what our bodies used to do.

You can stay strong, and will keep the muscle mass we desire in our youth, but the key is longevity. It does no good to lift very heavy for a few years, only to suffer from painful injuries for many years afterwards.

I finally had to go “under the knife” a couple years ago at age 60, when I could no longer lift a carton of milk. Injuries I suffered in my 20’s, but was able to work around for the next 45 years.

It already sounds like you are very wisely adjusting your routine, but I would consider a complete re-do, for longevities sake.

My surgeries, thankfully, were a complete success, and I have more strength in the left arm than I have had in years.

Hang in there and take the advice of the therapist, it ALWAYS takes longer to heal than we think it should.

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in reply to: New Broadhead #24174

Well ya gotta give em an “A” for ingenuity. It’s got SOME traditional materials in it, sort of.

I like the “great for replica arrows” comment. Wonder what tribe used screw in heads. My ancestors had to tie theirs on.

Look how long it took Edison to come up with a working light bulb. Give them about 20 years and they might use steel.

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in reply to: Another knife sharpening trick – Video #24155

That guys has a series of videos on sharpening and has some darn good ideas. He’s better at it than me, by a long shot, but if I am patient (not usually) I can get a razor edge with his methods.

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in reply to: First Successful HBO bow build! #13096

Elm has a lot of the same characteristics as hickory, so I am sure it would work as well. Seems I remember there was some detracting character of elm that kept it slightly below hickory, but it slips the memory.

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in reply to: GPS Suggestions #13076

CA is like that. You BEST know where the stream goes before using energy to follow it. On top of a GPS I would suggest a good water filtration system.

Of course none of us will ever get lost if we are TRUE woodsmen, but it might be the difference between a headline reading “man found dead after 5 days of being lost on AZ hunting trip” and “man found alive, after 5 days, weak but otherwise healthy, while hunting in AZ.”

These things were developed for a real reason, not marketing hype. If (big IF) the satellites do go down, then fall back on the compass. I always carry both, and use each about equally. I used my compass to guide my 2 hunting buddies and myself back to the truck, when we were hunting elk in NM. Neither of their GPS units agreed with me. We were about 2 miles in, and I got us to within 100yds of truck. We could see it from the hilltop where we ended up.

Had it been dark, we would have spent the nite in the hills. A miss by 100yds might as well be a mile.

GPS units have improved a LOT since then. That was in the late 90’s.

First rule, KNOW the map of the area you want to hunt, and know the topo map as well. Even when using GPS, take compass readings incase something happens to GPS. Folks that have not hunted the west have no idea how big these open areas are. Getting lost can and will kill you.

Something I seldom see recommended and I think is a tragedy, is carrying a radio that can transmit on 121.5. That is the FAA emergency frequency. I am a retired Air Traffic Controller. Part of the airspace I worked for 27 years, was over the Grand Canyon, AZ. River rafter and hiking tours carried those transmitters, and when someone got deathly ill or injured, they used them. Commercial Aircraft passing overhead can hear them and relay messages for a rescue, BUT they are only to used for emergency, and a special permit might be required.

I participated in probably over 100 of those over my career. Having a GPS and that radio, you could give coordinates and have rescue come right to you, instead of searching a 40 sq mile area.

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in reply to: Cold Weather Gloves #9908

I cannot add anything to the cold weather gloves of choice, but I will suggest something I did. I use the flip back mittens mentioned several times, except I replaced the Velcro with magnets. sewn into the fabric. MUCH quieter and easier to use. I got tired of seeing game flinch when using them.

Some might say, “they don’t make noise till you close them” and I say, wait till your hand hits something on the draw, or gets caught on something when lifting the bow.

Just remember the magnets are in there if you use a compass though.

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in reply to: GPS Suggestions #9898

I’d say if you get one, get the Oregon series, Garmin, I think. Anyway there is an outfit online, won’t post a link, but if you google hunting gps maps, you will find them. I say this mainly because you will be hunting way out of your element, going to AZ. Out west there are no land marks telling you private land from NF land or BLM land and ranchers will not take kindly to you wandering onto their land.

The outfit I mentioned has chips that go right into your gps unit and SHOWS those boundaries, and in many areas will have private land owner names (from public records) and contact numbers. It also shows NF, BLM and private boundaries, as well as built in topo.

For those reasons I would definitely carry one, when hunting out of state, but I also use a compass and topo map.

If you find a good spot late in the day, to spot game, but want to show up there in the dark, before first light, it’s pretty hard to do that with a compass and map. Don’t use a gps in the field like you would in a car, turn by turn, but use it to get you from A to B, and you pick the best path. The topo might not have that cliff covered by trees, that is right on the gps path. Sometimes the best path from A to B is through C and D first.

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in reply to: Backpacks/Daypacks #9886

Personally I carry an external frame pack made for me by my brother years ago. It was originally just a day bag, but lately I mounted it to my homemade frame. I hunted for years (rifle and bow) with an internal frame pack, but hunting in the warm weather (early seasons in this area) I find the internal frames make me sweat way too much. My external frame has high ventilation webbing as the only thing touching my back.

My back feels way cooler now. If I do sweat, it can now evaporate, and another benefit of an external frame, is odd shaped items don’t stick me in the back any more.

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