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  • handirifle
      Post count: 409

      OK made two changes to the bow, that helped a LOT. First, as mentioned, I adjusted the tiller to be even, and I have been working on my own bow quiver. Never liked slip on or wrap around styles. Slip on’s were too heavy and wrap around just moved too much for my liking.

      Mine mounts to the AMO riser inserts (2) on the side, and (as yet to be added) a lower mount (one) at the bottom of the riser. It is all aluminum except the broad head cup, and it is a combo of plastic and foam.

      I know it’s not to the liking of many but suits me fine and will actually look pretty decent when it’s all painted up. Anyway, with just the top mount, for now, I shot the bow, and I would guess perceived noise is cut about 1/2. That and there is very little movement of the quiver. Movement might have been due partly to tiller before, but all is good now.

      I will still build a longer takedown, when I build my own, just to see if it does seem to make a difference. Plus a longer bow should shoot a little easier as well.

      handirifle
        Post count: 409
        in reply to: Bandsaw #29623

        I have an old Harbor Freight, and can tell you that as long as the blade guides are screw adjustable, you should be good. My HF models does NOT have them and if and when the guide blocks shift, the blade will wander.

        Someday I will design and build my own roller guides, mainly because I want to start building bows again too.

        handirifle
          Post count: 409

          So I adjusted the tiller on my old recurve tonight. Will see if it makes a difference in noise. A bit of experimentation on my part. Will most likely have to adjust nock point again, but worth it, if it quiets the bow some.

          It had 1/8″ positive tiller (top limb) and I made it even tiller. I shoot 3 under.

          handirifle
            Post count: 409
            in reply to: Best target #42205

            I use plastic grocery bags stuffed real tight into a cardboard box. Easy to tote around and move where you want it. Does not work well in the rain and wet though. Pulling arrows is a 2 finger affair. Use it ONLY for field points or target. Broadheads will stay in the target when you pull the arrows.

            handirifle
              Post count: 409

              I am still playing with the brace height on my current bow, but I have twisted the string well beyond normal, so any shorter and it will have to be with a new string.

              handirifle
                Post count: 409

                OK. Does this theory still apply to long bows? There is little to no string contact there. If those limbs are out of time maybe it will lengthen the sound?

                Is that right?

                handirifle
                  Post count: 409

                  drew4fur wrote: [quote=Steve Graf]What’s your thesis about?

                  Reptile and Amphibian Communities and their Thermal Environments at Uluru Kata-Tjuta National Park, Australia.

                  layman’s terms: There is a big rock in the middle of Australia, at the base of that rock there are hot places and not so hot places; reptiles like hot places, and amphibians like not so hot places. The End.

                  LOL I was laughing my butt off telling this to my wife. I told her you will probably write out 50 pages for a thesis and you just told it all in 2 sentences.

                  I think you just summed up BOTH sides of our current political race. :lol::lol:

                  Hillarious

                  handirifle
                    Post count: 409

                    Let’s See Your Fletching

                    I beg your pardon, I do not know you!!!! That’s a little forward, don’t you think?

                    :shock::lol:

                    handirifle
                      Post count: 409

                      Yea an ILF would make tuning the tiller pretty easy. Any idea if the length “of a properly tillered bow” would make a difference in sound?

                      handirifle
                        Post count: 409
                        in reply to: Noisy Bow #58169

                        Ontario

                        I hate to ask the obvious, but did you try a LOWER brace height? I have a noisy recurve that DID get quieter when the brace got higher, but I had a 66″ Martin recurve that HATED anything higher than 7″. It was almost too low, but the bow was smooth, quiet, and shock free. It happened by accident too. My original string got frayed and I had the archery shop owner make me a new one, it was 1/2″ too long.

                        I was shooting inside, so I said what the heck, I can twist it up if need be. He was more than willing to make a new one, but after a few shots I liked it. Added bonus was it picked up 5 fps with the longer power stroke too.

                        The down side, is if it gets too low, hand slap can become an issue.

                        I have also found that my bows are noisier with fast flight strings, rather than dacron or similar. Just my experience.

                        Good luck.

                        handirifle
                          Post count: 409

                          I like to make my own out of steel. Large nails to be exact. Harbor Freight mini lathe does the trick. It IS time consuming though.

                          handirifle
                            Post count: 409
                            in reply to: Big Boy! #57855

                            I shot one many years back in Ohio, that was 190 dressed. That thing makes him look small. Here in CA it would take 2 to come close to that size. 🙂

                            handirifle
                              Post count: 409

                              It might very well be an angle issue, considering the consistency of my problem. Worst case scenario is build a bow and see how it goes. If they are off, try again after making adjustments to thickness.

                              One thing to note on bow woods. I used red cedar once and apparently didn’t de-grease them well enough because I had limb delamination. There was plenty of glue in the area, just no adhesion.

                              handirifle
                                Post count: 409

                                Part of my problem with poundage was going by their charts I always came in about 10lb high. I even ordered 5lb under on the last one and was still off considerably. I would also suggest when building the limb forms, and probably cutting the riser, use a router with straight bit to insure the sides are square to the face. If not twisted parts will come out, I know from experience. I have and used a band saw as they say, but obviously my blade did not run true.

                                I saw an article, somewhere, where a guy made a single template 1/4″ thick or so, of his desired limb shape, and used it with a router to clean this issue up, AND to insure identical limbs. Very smart I thought, but I was done making bows before that article came out.

                                Guys turn out some terrific bow by themselves and you will too most likely.

                                handirifle
                                  Post count: 409

                                  Not to be a Debby Downer, but I was in Bass Pro shop a week or so ago, and they have take down recurves there (beginner level for sure)cheaper (probably better) than what it costs me to build one. Doing it yourself is a HUGE confidence builder, when the outcome is pretty controlled, so I don’t want to try to take that away from your thoughts. Just keep it in perspective.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 375 total)