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  • handirifle
      Post count: 409

      I have made one piece bows and take downs, from scratch, but never this way. It just seems to me that if I had a device that would hold the two pieces together, and i knew the exact thickness, I could make the necessary cut to insert the device.

      i dunno, kinda rambling but as long as the bow length was kept the same, and you could insure the limbs were aligned correctly, all would be ok.

      handirifle
        Post count: 409

        Any chance you could post a pic of how they connect?

        handirifle
          Post count: 409

          Oh, I know I could buy one, that wasn’t my point. I am always wondering “what if”, thus the question.

          I fell it could be done, not sure if I could do it, but the thought keeps rattling around in my head anyway.:D

          handirifle
            Post count: 409

            Those warewolf heads are not cheap, at $90 for six, but still less than some for sure. I will have to give them some thought. Money isn’t plentiful right now.

            They do look like great arrowheads though.

            handirifle
              Post count: 409

              Ok, went back and saw the ones you mentioned. Will do.

              handirifle
                Post count: 409

                2blade

                When you say all these heads, do you mean all mentioned in this thread? Also do you find tuning spine on the wheel bow to be the same as tuning on the traditional? Maybe I should PM you, but I seem to be having some issues tuning the wheel bow with heavy heads.

                handirifle
                  Post count: 409

                  I knew it wouldn’t be easy, but didn’t figure on impossible, but I guess if no one has done it successfully, there must be a reason.

                  Maybe if I come across a cheapie bow somewhere I’ll give it a whirl. But would have to have a decent attachment system figured out first. I for sure won’t try on a bow I want to keep around.:D

                  handirifle
                    Post count: 409

                    2blade wrote: Or Woodsman Elite in 150. The Werewolfs are definitely my fav tho. I’ve killed quite a few animals with Magnus Stingers in 150 as well but they do bend.

                    I have some magnus originals, but they must be bent slightly as I cannot make them fly accurately.

                    I have often wondered about them, since their price is certainly good.

                    I need to get a good arrow spinner to check all my heads for straightness, since some will be shot from my recurve and some from my Mathews. While it’s not a newer 300fps version, even still a hunting weight arrow at 240fps seems to reveal issue with heads that are not perfectly straight, much more so than the recurve.

                    handirifle
                      Post count: 409

                      DaveT wrote: Hey guys!

                      I have had the same problem myself with Tuffhead 125s and the KME. There is no way to get a 25 angle without grinding the ferrule so I just moved it up to 30 degrees. I also use the 200 grain grizzly BHs and no problem getting them at 25 degrees with the KME but the blade is wider. I would be interested in seeing if there is any measurable

                      difference b/w a 30 and 25 degree angle since it doesn’t seem like much.

                      I do find the grizzly BHs a little easier to get crazy sharp though. Going hog hunting in the morning so maybe I’ll get a chance to test both:D

                      did you mean Tuffhead 225 instead of 125? I cannot find a Tuffhead 125.

                      handirifle
                        Post count: 409

                        Well I think I might have to give another real long look at the olld wensel woodsman. I had a few and they penetrate like crazy, but they do bend if hitting hard bone,but I guess they most all do in that weight range.

                        handirifle
                          Post count: 409

                          Interesting, seeing both sides of the proverbial coin I guess. Well I guess I need to retune the bow for heavier heads, or figure something else out. These were going too be for my wheel bow and am trying to keep a fairly flat trajectory to 50 yds or more and still keep arrow weight well above 400gr. But didnt really want to go super heavy, yet.

                          handirifle
                            Post count: 409

                            Mine are a 3-1 ratio, but my jig isn’t a KME and the angles don’t match, so I free hand it.

                            handirifle
                              Post count: 409

                              Wow, OK I will avoid them then, thanks.

                              handirifle
                                Post count: 409

                                While am in no way any kind of authority on sharpening or edges, the only thing I can think of would be that the 25 deg would provide slightly less resistance when cutting tissue.

                                I have recently acquired the skills I have been seeking for years, to sharpen my knives and broadheads to razor edges. That came from help on the above video and from a book I have on the subject. In the book, one of he points he stresses is getting sufficient “relief” on the edge. In the authors opinion, most knives come from the factories with a sharp edge but a very sharp angle bevel right behind it. This limits the effective “slicing” effect of the edge. He says to run your fingers from the edge back towards the back of the blade, straight away from the edge, not along it. You should net really be able to tell when you leave the edge and get into the blade, so little to no angle.

                                To me it kinda makes more sense to think that a wedge type edge, like how everything I ever see sharpened has, if more suited for chopping through tough stuff, rather than slicing. But when the very thin edge is ground with a very smooth relief from the edge back, the blade just slices through so much easier.

                                On my knives that has been absolutely true. The edge will not take any chopping action, so if that is the intent, it’s best to have the more triangle style bevel, it would be more durable.

                                I hope this make sense, and like I said, I am NO authority, at all, just a newby with some observations.

                                handirifle
                                  Post count: 409

                                  softpoint wrote: You should check out the Samick Stingray from Lancaster Archery. I got one and love it. It has gotten great reviews from the traditional brethren.

                                  It looks like a nice bow, except for a beginner it’s a bit short. Plus, at least my feelings on it, he’d have to buy two bows. being new to archery entirely, and going right to traditional, I would never recommend a newby buy a hunting weight traditional bow. way too many mistakes in form will be ingrained into them. Once in there, they are very hard to get rid of.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 166 through 180 (of 375 total)