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in reply to: best fletching jig? #35327
I had a Martin J-8 for a long time (many years ago) and for the life of me could not make it work. I’m pretty sure it was me not knowing how to set it up, but the instructions were hard for me to understand. I am nt a dummy but it would NOT lay the feathers with the baseflat against the shaft. It was always cocked at an angle, thus never glued on very strong.
I have since bought and still use the Arizona Eazy fletch. They definately have drawbacks, especially when re-gluing one feather that got loose or stripped off. Very difficult.
I do have to say at $90 a pop the Bitz is up there, and with only one feather on one shaft at a time, it would take forever to fletch a new dozen. I do not have the kind of money it takes to go buying all new fletchers, being retired on a fixed income, that seems to be getting smaller every day.
in reply to: Less of Dave Petersen, please! #64024David Petersen wrote: Come on, friends! I absolutely hate to see “David Petersen” on the menu of forums here–as I just noticed is now the case on all three forums, since I just hti them all–over and over and over, day after day. Well, I just can’t help myself because, sometimes, the topic is so damned interesting that I’m helpless not to pitch in my views. Other times it’s because someone asks a darn good question and nobody else responds, so I feel that I should. So if you’re sick of seeing my name and posts here, as I sure am, the more YOU post the less I will. Seriously, I know what I think about almost everything, and so am far more interested in hearing what you think, pro or con. Up with populism and democracy! 😛
I missed that, can you say it again please? :D:wink: Just kiddn.
in reply to: 40# for hunting? #24777If that setup is tuned for your bow it will be way more than enough for roe deer. I would check those same arrows with heavier heads just to see how they fly, but 14% is still pretty decent. I am sure many of us have hunted in the past with similar setups and never gave it a second thought.
in reply to: 40# for hunting? #24744Aaron
Just so ya know, the legal min draw weights for most states were in effect long before compounds were ever popular. In addition, most early compounds had little if any energy advantage over traditional equipment.
The 40lb bow will do the job. I would advise a heavy for weight or EFOC arrow to insure good penetration, especially on the boar. Ibwould also use a good COC 2 blade head. As for deer as was stated the standard setupp works great.
Good luck and take pictures please.:D
in reply to: Anyone ever use these heads? #16151OK I bought a half dozen Magnus Stinger’s in 125. Interesting fact is, I started testing the old Magnus originals I had and figured out why they wobbled, and got most, if not all, of the wobble out. Am trying to narrow it down between the Magnus originals and the Stingers. I gave up on the Steel Force heads above. Still some tuning issues I need to work on.
in reply to: New to bow hunting… entirely #16141Find deer, aim bow, draw bow, shoot deer, clean deer, then take deer home, enjoy venison.:wink:
See, it’s quite simple really :D.
Yea, I wish!:(
Good advice above, take heed.
in reply to: Bob Lee Custom Bow question #9566Never owned a Bob Lee (or any other custom bow) but they have a great reputation. If it were me, I would have to save up for some time, but a nice set of 55lb limbs would be high on my list.
Unless you can afford a new custom, and want to pass along a good deal to a friend who like a 65lb bow. I am sure there’s plenty here that do. Not me but I am sure there are.
in reply to: Hardwood shafts? #8081OK I did some weighing today. The arrow is a feather fletched cedar, and I HAVE NOT shot this arrow for tuning with these weights I will quote, but am just putting the numbers out there to compare.
The wood arrow with a 125gr glue on point weighed in at 474gr. I actually MEASURED the steel insert I made up, it was 2.5″ long, not the 3 or 4 I thought. With an aluminum adapter on it, and it weighed 103gr. When the alum adapter was changed to a steel one, the weight came up to 177. Remember the shank of the adapter is cut off and the adapter drilled out and tapped for 8-32 threads. I used 1/8 thread rod so solid rod would most likely bring the weight to 180 or 185gr, but will go with what I have.
Total weight, with no head on it, now comes to 528gr.
Figuring one might glue on something like a 225gr Tuffhead, I added an additional 225gr point to the front. and this brought the total to 754, now we’re getting somewhere. The shaft is 28.5″ to back of head, so with center point being 14 1/4, the actual balance point is 7.25″ forward of the center point, for and FOC of 25.44%. Now if you wrapped it in a fiberglass footing, and coated that in resin, I imagine it would tip the scale over 800gr, and ought to be darn tough, for a wood arrow.
Anyway, that’s food for thought, since you were wondering about an insert inside a wood arrow for strength, hope this helps.
in reply to: Bowstring Questions #63362R2 wrote: I blame my misses on low brace height. Never do seem to get it right!
Hey, ya gotta blame them on something, right?:D
Just kiddn, it does mess with trajectory when brace height is off.
in reply to: Takedown from a one piece bow? #63359Well, after considerable review, I have decided this is definately doable, and I will be doing it to my recurve, the question is when. I do have other projects ahead of it and am currently sittn in Dr’s office awaiting results from left shoulder MRI. Injury was over 35yrs ago, but has come back and now it feels like a torn bicep on top of the other. So am awaiting to see what my options are, and if repairable.
Back to the bow. I was browsing Binghams Projects and their limb locking kits are $14 a set. I can make one for less than $4 for 4 bolts and threaded insert. None of the hardware stores carry 5/16 x 24 inserts, so I will make my own fron 1/2″ thread rod.
The riser is shaped in such a way so as to make it fairly simple to cut the limbs off. I will take before during and after pics and post them all when I get started.
Now to see what the doc says:(
in reply to: Hardwood shafts? #62546Thought I might chime in here, with all my VAST EFOC experience :D:wink:, anyway, here goes.
First on the drilling out the center of wood arrows, I did it with one of mine, on my small lathe. I drilled it 1/8″ wide and 4″ deep, I think, don’t remember for sure. I used a section of thread rod, and also screwed it into the back of a tapered insert, with the shaft cut off.
Tomorrow sometime, I will weigh it before and after, but I don’t think it made a huge difference. But the point was it is doable, but only with a lathe.
Also as for the wrapping of the front of the shaft with epoxy, how about a single layer of fiberglass cloth, then coated with epoxy. This will add weight, strength, AND keep flexibility, which will be vital on a hard impact with bone. It’s the non-flexibility that will snap an arrow. Using alum or steel will simply move the snapping point back a few inches.
With the fiberglass overlay, you could also paint it to closer resemble a wood arrow with a painted footing.
in reply to: Wet Feathers #61227I am not a goose or duck hunter so someone chime in if I am wrong, but I don’t think geese or ducks’ feathers have oil in them, I think that is why the birds are always messing with their feathers, they are applying the oil with their beaks.
in reply to: Ben Pearson Palomino #61223Welcome back.
yea twisted limbs can usually be repaired, sometimes with just overtwisting in the opposite direction, sometimes with a bit of heat applied. Do a search here for twisted limbs and there should be several threads. I had one thread called Ebay bow.
I think mineral spirits will clean the residue off,and on the limbs, I would use a very fine paper, say 600 grit or so, just to clean it up and prep for finish coat. On the riser, use what ever grit you need to get the old finish off. Be sure to post some before and after pics for us. I always forget the before part, too big of a hurry to get started.:D
in reply to: High FOC works #59785Everyone keeps referring to Stu’s calculator. Where might I find this calculator? I have done a search and come up empty.
in reply to: Takedown from a one piece bow? #57951R2 wrote: Seems so to me too if handle was strong, aligned and bow length the same. My wife thinks super glue should keep the house together so…..:D:D whatcha think:?::idea:
Uh, no! At least the super glue part:D
I looked at the Stotler bows, I had forgotten about them, but I think that is exactly what I had in mind. I might order some take down limb bolts, and have at it. Of course I might try it on the ebay bow I redid. That way, if I screw it up, it’s not my hunting bow.
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