[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: tapered wood arrows #32609

I personally use 5/16 shafts spined at 70# with a short footing up front for s bigger broadhead. Also I find the hardwoods a much quicker to recover from paradox than softwoods.

Dave I saw some guys doing some horsebow shooting and the nock end was 11/32 which made for better grabing of the arrow. wonder if you could do that for a self noc?

Kevin Forrester

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Help needed with wood arrows #32581

I have had little problem in warping from certain woods that have an interlocking grain. They also spine closely when you turn it on a spine tester. In fact I still have some leopardwoods from two years ago sitting in my basement in soggy Seattle…and are straight as the day I made them. They also have some sort of resin that leaches out slightly with heat. When cool, that resin drys hard and also helps keep the shape I put in it. If a shaft is turned ftom a crooked blank, you will have a crooked shaft that will ALWAYS give you trouble. Good time to go for distance shooting at a nearby lake.

Kevin

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Organized work area? #32574

R2,

VERY impressive. I just got an idea from your picture. I have a big toolbox I can use in the baement…then a lighter tackle box for fletching in the upstairs. Thanks for sharing the results of your hard work and love of archery.

Kevin

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Help needed with wood arrows #31567

I always give the benefit of the doubt until proven otherwise. It happened to some shafts I sent to a new customer. I check each shaft for straightness before sending out but for some reason many had warped during shipping. Not sure if a heat wave did it or humidity but now I seal the woods that are prone to that. My point is had the customer NOT informed me, I would not have known about his plight or the warp issue. I appreciate feedback whether good or bad. In this case I appologized and sent a bakers’ dozen premium semi finished shafts no charge. I would say let him know what you found with the shafts and ask what does he suggest. That’s my two sence.

Kevin Forrester

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: How do I straighten wood arrows? #21667

I find hardwood shafts with an interlocking grain like red balau or leopard wood are not so prone to warping like ash and hickory. That being said, I find the best and quickest way is over the gas stove. Slightly heat up the side with downward bend then hold in oposite direction past straight while holding against cold counter. If stubborn bend, rub the heated side on the smooth counter edge. (The heated side expands which helps to straighten). Hold opposite bend until cool gives a new shape to the wood.

Kevin

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Oil rub arrow finish? #21654

Very nice looking arrows. Teak oil is best in my opinion. Easy to apply, handle, drys quick…I just wipe den. alcohol for fletching. Shows the grain well and polishes up nicely with a wool sock after use. Kevin Forrester

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Oil rub arrow finish? #56250

R2 wrote: Teak oil work over a minwax stain?

On light colored woods I use a cherry stain then I rub the eccess off imediately then teak oil over the stain while it’s still wet. That will help to make a light stain colored oil finish. I don’t go for thick stains….or stains on darker woods. I find a light stain on certain woods brings.out the wood grains…and the oil brings out the luster.

Kevin Forrester

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: REAL primitive bowhunting! #55023

Smithhammer wrote: [quote=R2]”Walace’s view, the human brain could not be the product of natural selection, since it always possessed capacities so far in excess of its original function.”

My wifey, dearest person who I love dearly and who allows me to do pretty much as I please in the archery world, ask me what part of the above quote that I missed out on.

A great example of traditional archery from it’s inception. Shooting a primitive bow from the thumb…our strongest finger.

Kevin

Take heart – Wallace was patently wrong. 8)

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Oil rub arrow finish? #52989

That reminds me of centuries gone by where primitive people everywhere took care of their hunting equipment. On icy cold mornings, arrows, quivers, and bowd were held near a.fire to prevent the frozen equipment from breaking…or worse…scaring game with a bad shot. The best way to know your equipment, Is a hands on lifestyle. We may have exchanged bair grease

for teak oil but the activities are the same…to know your equipment, the land, then the game. Shoot straight but shoot often.

Kevin Forrester

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Oil rub arrow finish? #52656

Dave,

I’ve had good luck with the TEAK oil. Unlike many oils which tend to gum up, the teak oil drys quickly to the touch. In 72 hrs urethane or cresting can be applied. (It soaks into the grain well). Also it can be buffed with wool later to slick up the surface again. Fun to use.

Kevin Forrester

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Red Cedar Shafts ? #43855

I recently got ahold of some very old growth Alaskan yellow cedar on a trade. There are about 60 growth rings per inch. It spines out at 60# in 11/32! I’m hanging on to those babies.

Kevin

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Different arrows for each draw weight? #30009

Goraidh wrote: Good luck to ya, Ashford, and enjoy the process. Traditional archery is so much fun.

My dad just gave me an old Ben Pearson bow which is only 40#. I use teak and mohagany in 11/32 as well as 5/16 maples. For my sons recurve at 50#, I use leopardwood ‘lights’, and for my 58# longbow I go with red balau in 5/16 spined 60-65#, bigger teaks and Brazilian cherry.

Kevin

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Resealing shafts? #14527

I like using teak oil. It is designed to soak into the grain then can be handled after rubbing with a rag. After 72 hours a urithane can be applied if you want.

Kevin

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Ben Pearson recurve #12880

Thanks Craig. I remember my dad using it a couple times in the early 60’s but it has sat since. Except for peeling varnish on the sides. It looks almost new. I’ll check the Pearson site. Thank you.

Kevin

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: WOOD SHAFTS WON'T BREAK! #51357

forresterwoods wrote: [quote=wahoo]Kevin your fine – I jumped into carbons last year because of the big fuss over carbons and thought I would find out what it was all about. I was real frustrated over what to shoot and weights and finding places to buy . I feel they were too complicated , expensive , problems with assembling them and keeping them together and as I wrote in 1 thread they have no soul . The good things I found was that my groups were tighter — I thought ?? Last night I was shooting woodies and my groups were fine laying right next to the carbons . All in all I think mostly I just miss making them and they just feel right and look good. For me my biggest problems shooting is form. Love the wood

I couldn’t have said better. It’s like after putting your personality into a self bow, then go hunting with it…you know your weapon/art personally. I think the same goes for self arrows…you know each one by heart and they (arrows) are on your side as you walk through the woods looking for game. The satisfaction and sense of purpose seem to be magnified ten times when you know that your hands, skill, and dedication has produced results.

Kevin

I tried shooting into granite and cement today…on one shot the arrow stuck into the granite and stayed..lol…and with the cement most bounced off but one arrow left the point stuck into the cement. My som took a video and we’ll try and get that up this week.

Kevin

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