[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: which spine #20303

I think the cheapest way is to cut your arrows to the shortest length possible, get some various weight target points, then see how heavy you can go without getting a fishtail. If yourr close to your target weight before getting some fishtail then add 6-8# of spine for good measure….and so on.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: EFOC arrow trajectory #20221

Alex that is some very impressive shooting IMO. One thing I’ve noticed when shooting heavier arrows from my longbow is a 5/16 arrow shot at 35 yards will have about 10″ more drop than an 11/32 arrow of the same spine and weight! (My theory (guess) is there is more surface area on the wider diameter arrow which allows atmosphere to hold it up longer. I’m wondering if anybody eles has more education on this than I?

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Fletching Glue Quandry #38921

Sandpaper takes down the feather quill.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: To Foot or not to Foot #55429

Well said JP. However there are variables to be considered that alter the outcomes. The main variable is that there are what’s known as ‘soft’ hardwoods that are many times stronger than most softwoods and in some cases weigh LESS than some softwoods. For instance I have some that spine 50-53# and weigh 280 grains…as well as 80# spine that weigh 400 grains! (I find there are always more options available in life than we care to think of).

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: To Foot or not to Foot #20330

Hardwood arrows would nullify the need for footings…however I like a FULL ARROW TAPER starting 1.5″ from the front of an 11/32 shaft. (After 1.5″, immediately go to 5/16 all the way to the nock). This will accomplish several things.1) Gives you a stronger shaft at the weakest section just behind the point. 2) Get a better selection to fitting broadheads to a 5/16 shaft..(hardwood shaft spines 60-65#). 3)Most important is better penetration. An 11/32 point end followed by a 5/16 arrow shaft has the best penetration possible!

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Fletching Glue Quandry #20243

I’ve tried almost every fast drying glue on the market and THE BEST by far has been MAXI-CURE (extra thick) from Hobby Town USA. It drys the quickest, the strongest, and it’s thick and won’t Crack. You should be able to Google them for locations.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: ARROW SHAFTS DIAMETERS? #9652

Yeah I called Three Rivers but didn’t get much of an answer. Not a big deal…I’ll continue making arrows based on spine and weight which is most important anyway. If the diameter is on the fat side of 11/32 say or the thin side…I’ll leave instructions on how best to taper.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: ARROW SHAFTS DIAMETERS? #56141

Yes I understand the taper tool dimensions are determined by the ATA (Archery Trade Association) but I haven’t gotten hold of them yet.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Open stance or conventional ? #53522

Square stance forces me to use my back muscles so I use that for warming up and to not use my biceps. Open stance seems to help me focus on my target like a crouching predator. Not sure why.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Re-Thinking old Thoughts on Woodies #42628

Low profile long feathers with a slight angle seems to work best for long distances. Manchurian archers 600 years ago made arrows with 9″-12″ X 1/2″ profile and straight fletching. Right wing feathers will naturally turn to the right due to the ‘lift’ of the feather shape.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Re-Thinking old Thoughts on Woodies #50841

A straight clamp works fine if you put some angle to the feathers. After all right winged feathers even if put on straight will give the arrow a right spin because of the ‘airplane’ wing lift design of each feather. That being said it seems like long very low profile feathers have less drag than very short high profile feathers…but I’m really not certain. (I’ve personally had less issues on very windy days with the lower profile feathers).

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Carbon vs. Hardwood #47342

I haven’t found anything quite as tough as good old American Rock Maple. It’s actually difficult to break while stumping.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Re-Thinking old Thoughts on Woodies #47311

One consistent thing I notice when turning wood arrow shafts. When finished turning they are warm from friction and after cooling they will gain from 3-5# of spine.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: poor performing EFOC arrow #34440

I would suggest 5/16 hardwoods with 11/32 footings. A friend bagged an Asian Water buffalo with one that was buried to the fletching. The animal went 30 yards. I’ve heard reports of pass throughs on relatively new targets.

[Forresterwoods]

in reply to: Re-Thinking old Thoughts on Woodies #50249

Steve. Actually I use 6-8 different species of wood and mahogany has about 15 subspecies so a larger diameter sometimes has less spine and less weight that a smaller diameter. For example one type of mahogany in 11/32 can be lower OR higher in spine and weight to another mahogany with a 5/16 diameter. Density is a subject I’m not that familiar with but is a factor to consider if hunting thick skinned game or target shooting. Still lots to learn.:)

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