Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
in reply to: Just funny. #20031
Satanta, a Kiowa man, is also a good choice too, though there aren’t as many pictures of him.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/White_Bear_(Sa-tan-ta),_a_Kiowa_chief,_full-length,_seated,_holding_bow_and_arrows,_1869_-_1874_-_NARA_-_518901.jpg
in reply to: Just funny. #20025Quanah Parker is a good candidate, the Comanche were well known for their archery prowess on horseback. They used front stuffers sparingly, but preferred the bow for launching arrows while riding at full speed.
http://images5.fanpop.com/image/photos/24800000/Quanah-Parker-native-americans-24885801-289-321.gif
Fantastic stuff man, the trad bow deer really awakens something inexplicable inside you!
in reply to: Too Noisey? #40918dwcphoto wrote: For those of you who at one time or another just wanted to enjoy some peace and quiet when a plane flies over…
Sent to me by Colmike. dwc
I wanna know the story behind this!
in reply to: Brace height for Bear Grizzly #40915Cedarshaft wrote: I was just given a 58″ x 41# Grizzly by a friend. Put a new string on it and shot it with some Gold Tip 1535 shafts. Shot well. Looking for a suggested brace height before I install string silencers. Any suggestions?:D
The recommended brace height is 7.5 to 8.5 inches. I shoot Super Kodiaks and Kodiak Hunters, and I’ve found that having brace height more than 8.5 inches, and less than 9 works best for me. My recommendation is to start at the highest manufacturer recommended height, i.e., 8.5 inches, and work down from there about a half inch at a time. If it get’s “worse” e.g., louder, arm slap, poor arrow flight all the way down, then 8.5 or 9 inches is probably the sweet zone. In general it’s going to depend on your draw length, arrows and shooting style.
in reply to: Snake skins #37126Duncan wrote: Just a heads up. Some States have listed the Timber Rattler as protected according to a Nat Geo article I read several years ago. Don’t remember the States mentioned but NY comes to mind. Probably should check the State laws before killing any Timber Rattlers. The local Game Warden might use your bow as evidence against you. 😳
This is fairly accurate, many states, especially in the North East USA have listed them as threatened. They are declining across their range. As a herpetologists and a wildlife biologist, I’d advise anyone against using timber rattler skins. Not only are they generally not robust enough as a species to tolerate a sustainable harvest, if they do get a federal declaration then possessing the skins would be a fine-able offense.
Copperheads on the other hand, generally doing well. If you’re not trained in venomous snake handling/capture, I think the best way to acquire skins is to cruise black top roads and pick up roadkills. This can be especially productive in the late spring months. In my experience, in the states of Texas, Louisiana and Mississippi, April is the best month. North of these areas, e.g., Kansas, Missouri, Arkansas, and most of the Appalachian states May and June are a bit better.
Other than one small region of West, TX, if you live west of the Pecos River, you’re out of luck, ain’t no copperheads out there. You’ll have to settle for any one of the dozen or so rattlesnake species.
Check your local fish and game laws, some states, like Kansas, have a legal harvest/possession limit on non-game wildlife. Other states, collecting reptiles is not allowed without a scientific collecting permit.
in reply to: Green Fletch #31134R2 wrote: I’m refreshing, refletching 10 shafts (R2 dozen) and I’m using the flint tool I found at my hunting lease a couple of weeks ago to remove the feather and glue remnants.
It’s working like a charm, doesn’t get dull like a knife blade does during this scraping process.
Kinship with some ancient one..:wink:
Too cool R2, I used to dabble in flint napping when I was a teenager. Kinda gave it up, among other reasons I just couldn’t find a good source of materials.
in reply to: Green Fletch #31132stchunter48 wrote: Love the Truenorth finishes. Easy to work with and no noxious fumes.
Exactly! Granted I’ve never tried anything else, but as easy as these products are I can’t imagine going to any of the other alternatives. I did do a google search once on home made woodstains, I may try that at some point.
in reply to: Green Fletch #30166I also want to add, that anyone who has not tried the True North water based arrow stains, give them a try. They’re pretty slick, and the colors get especially dark on these Doug Fir shafts. On POC shafts it usually takes me three or more coats to get the color I want, which is totally fine. However, I did two coats on the doug firs but could have easily got away with one.
I’m anxious to make some more shafts so I can use up some of my other finishing products and try the other true north stuff.
in reply to: Green Fletch #30155R2 wrote: Drew I use 4 fletch quite often. I seem to go to 3 fletch on wood and use 4 fletch mostly on carbon.
Why???????? Just me I guess….Whatever strikes me at the time.
Arrows either hit where I’m looking or they don’t and I cain’t say that the feathers are ever a problem added to that of the shooter. 😉
Well said R2, I actually intended to post this in the “show us your fletching” thread, but trying to post from my phone I always make some fool error.
In anycase, I think as long as the fletching is symmetrical, be that radial or bi-lateral symmetry, then it’s going to work to stabilize the shaft. I’ve read plenty (as I’m sure you have), that even three fletch is pretty even handed for cock feather in vs. cock feather out shooting. However, for me it’s either 2 or 4, only because that’s the way I like it!
in reply to: Green Fletch #30080R2 wrote: Lookin good..
Now we’ll have to go by colors instead of counting fletchings.. :D:D
Heh, yeah R2 I almost kept with the 2-fletch, but I’ve got a big stock of feathers and I want to use them all before I go back two-fletch. Also, I think the 2-fletch compliments the long or self bow a lot better, so when I cross that bridge I’ll definitely be back to my eclectic non-conformist ways.
That all being said, these are all 4-fletch shafts, and I didn’t see many of the Palo Duro shooters with anything other than 3-fletch
in reply to: The War of Arrows…. Great movie! #18996Steve Graf wrote: Look on youtube and do a search for “backyard bowyer”. He made one and shows how to do it. He shoots it on one of his videos.
found the link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYv2NOqncYA
So yes, it can be done 😯
wow, I thought overdraws were just a bi-product of compound engineering. This video is pretty cool actually. I can see how this might have some advantages for small game hunting, e.g., you could turn broken arrows into functional short range small game arrows.
in reply to: The War of Arrows…. Great movie! #18731I watched this the other night because I saw it discussed here.
Here are my thoughts
1.) I have never, to my knowledge, seen a Korean Film, so I am now more cultured
2.) Even though the archery was somewhat sensationalized, it wasn’t so over the top that I was put off.
3.) The split and hollowed “stick” that the main character uses to shoot short shafted arrows; is this really possible? Perhaps it’s a stupid question, I can not imagine how this would work nor have I ever heard of such a thing.
in reply to: Traditional Bow shops, Columbia/Jeff city MO? #15409Critch wrote: Must have hit the button twice…BTW, did ya’ll know that our capital is one of only a few in the country that is not served by an interstate highway? You cannot get there from the:shock: Bootheel.
Juneau, Alaska is an obvious one, it is impossible to drive to Juneau from anywhere.
-
AuthorPosts