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in reply to: Who has killed a mtn lion with trad gear? #38699
I’ve had a bit of experience with the subject. Your tackle sounds just fine. Despite what you might think, prepare yourself for some challenging archery. Most people who think shooting a cat out of a tree is the proverbial fish in a barrel have never done it. I’e seen some very good bowhunters de-quiver at the tree, and more than once I’ve had to climb down the mountain looking for arrows so they could get the job done. Don
in reply to: Low percentage shots #38691Absolutely the right decision; not even close. Of course you CAN kill an animal with a shot taken from virtually any angle or range. That certainly doesn’t mean you should take the shot (unless you’re desperate for some footage for your hunting show). This choice always boils down to balancing the chance of a clean kill versus the chance of a wounding loss. If you have to think about it, the answer is virtually always NO. I’ve never regretted a shot I didn’t take, but I sure have regretted a few that I did. Don
My feelings on the subject are a matter of record, so everyone knows that I disagree. But I’m doing so politely. Don
in reply to: quad tracks behind every locked gate #35526A Modest Proposal (with apologies to Jonathan Swift): unlimited, either-sex, OTC ATV tags. Just think about it. Don
in reply to: Backpacks for hauling meat… #35523No brand names in particular to tout (mine is an ancient Kelty), but for serious meat packing I’m a fan of a good aluminum frame and nothing else. With a few ounces of line you can tie a whole quarter on (caribou and elk anyway–moose are another story.) If you’ve boned everything in the field, you can do the same with a good game bag and a few basket hitches. You don’t really need the pack bag–just more weight and hassle. A chest strap and a padded belt will make the process a whole lot more comfortable. Wildschwein, check all the fittings on that Cabelas pack. The pins on the one I had were made of cheap metal and several failed on me. Unfortunately, I was 25 miles back in the Brooks Range when that happened. I improvised with something and got camp out, but that was my last pack from them. I don’t know where they get the “guides” who field test there “Alaska Guide Models.” Los Angeles, maybe. Don
in reply to: First Bow Suggestions For Wife #28068Great point, Troy. There’s a difference between helping others get started and forcing them to do things the way we do them. Good teachers appreciate that difference. Don
in reply to: Bear hide spoilage… #28063Remeber the two principles above! Get the hide as dry as possible by hanging it where air can circulate. But remember that strong direct sunlight shouldn’t hit the flesh side of the hide for long. So, the best way to do this is usually to drape it hide side up over a narrow log. Then store it in a porous game bag that can breathe. The light commercial ones are okay, but I prefer the stronger ones Lori makes at home because they will hold enough weight so that I can hang the bag in a tree to keep the air circulating. Of course this all gets more complicated in rainy weather. In that regard, your location should be a lot more favorable than Alaska! If you’ve got a hide that you just can’t get or keep dry, you better had out… if that’s possible. Don
in reply to: Bowlight for night hunting? #26619Let’s assume the issues of ethics and legality are worked out for a moment and focus on the technical problem. My experience is limited to Florida alligator hunting (where it is ONLY legal to hunt gators at night.) I found a headlamp impossible. As soon as I tucked my chin down into proper form to shoot, the beam came off the target. My only solution was to have my hunting partner hold the light for me. Whatever you decide to do, practice in the yard first to avoid an unpleasant surprise on game! Don
in reply to: Finally bought an ATV #26615Dustin, you had me worried! But I have a story to share. When I was living on the Kenai Peninsula, much of the Moose Range was appropriately restricted to all vehicles. A friend of a friend used a non-motorized version of your “ATV” to get a moose back to the road… and got busted. The definition of a “vehicle” included anything with wheels. A bit over the top IMHO, but… Moral: check the regs carrefully. Don
in reply to: First Bow Suggestions For Wife #26609I have no specifics, but can stress a couple of general principles. 1. Start light. Too much weight at first leads to bad form. 2. Don’t spend a lot of money on the first bow. If she gets into it, she’ll outgrow it in a few months. 3. Don’t underestimate where she’ll wind up because of gender. Lori is five feet tall on a good day and can shoot #55 easily when she’s practicing regularly Don
in reply to: Bear hide spoilage… #26605Nice to revisit this thread. Obviously, the sooner you get a hide to definitive treatment the better. However, I’ve taken bears on extended trips in the Bush when I couldn’t get the hide frozen or salted for as long as a week. This might not be possible in the Deep South, but it should be at Alberta latitudes. Remember: moisture is a hide’s greatest enemy, and circulating air is its greatest friend. Don
in reply to: Effective range based on accuracy #26599Honestly, I don’t think I could answer this question, at least with an answer that condenses down to a number of yards. So many variables come into play: the species of animal, weather and terrain, the shot angle, how I felt when I got up in the morning, etc. etc.. I’ve felt comfortable with 45 yard shots and passed up others at 10. Personally, my definition of a make-able and ethical shot is like the definition of art or pornography: I know it when I see it. Don
in reply to: Surplus Wool Quality? (it just showed up) #19830I have plenty of KOM and Filson and love it. But I bought a pair of Swedish military surplus pants about ten years ago, and they are great! Still got ’em. I don’t think you’re going to match the quality of our absolute top end brand names, but there’s no doubt you can get good wool at ridiculous prices if you shop around. It’s no mystery–think of the buying power various militaries have when purchasing the bulk materials, and subtract the money they don’t have to spend on advertising and marketing when they dump the stuff. Don
in reply to: What draw weight would you recommend? #15441I don’t disagree with anything said, and I came to the same conclusion Fred Bear did years ago. However, a couple of points. First, a lot of us shoot too much bow. I hunted with bows in the #70-75 range for years, but when I was recovering from neck surgery I learned that the lightest bow I owned–#58–would shoot through anything including elk and bear. Now I shoot bows in the #60-65 range, not because I can’t pull heavier ones but because I shoot lighter ones more accurately. Second, your optimal weight will change quickly when you come back to archery after a long lay-off. #45 may be all you can handle now, but after a few months of practice you’ll likely be up to #60 comfortably. However, you don’t want to start there, because wrestling with too much weight will make you develop bad shooting form. The ideal solution would be to borrow a #45 bow from a friend, shoot it for a couple of months, and see where you’re at. I’ve loaned out countless bows for this purpose over the years. Don
in reply to: Art with a Capital A #52807I would certainly accept a non-functional potato peeler as a fair price for having a Bear recurve in MoMA!
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