[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #39933

Thanks R2 my buddy has a tower fletching jig which i hope will work for fletching these up. The next dozen will be better.

Hava a good one.

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #39145

This is what I looked before I glued on the nocks. I didn’t think about how the clamp would line up with it. What I think you are saying is you glue the cock feather to the arrow by looking at the grain of the arrow. Cock feather on the grain that runs continuously down the entire shaft and the hen feathers it their appropriate places. Then you break the nock loose and permanently glue it in place. I get it. I glued my nock down first and hoped my jig would line up on it. So the question is. Is it to late to break my nocks loose and reuse them? I think I should be able to get them off and sand the nock taper a little to get the glue off. Will the nocks still be reusable? I did find one shaft that would work with four feathers so I fletched it up. It flew great. It sounded great as well. Sounded like shooting wood. I really like it.

Thanks

Doug

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #39009

I thought the grain of the arrow had to be perpendicular to the string. That gave you the strongest and most consistent spine taking the brunt of the force created by archers paradox? If it doesn’t matter I will change it. Although I think my nocks are permanently on now. Dang. Oh well maybe I will try four feathers.

DK

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #38957

So, I am not very smart. I got my new shafts stained, sealed and points glued on. I glued the nocks on so the grain of the wood is perpendicular to the string. My fletching jig does not line the cock feather with the nock. I took it apart and I cant adjust it. I could switch it over to four feather but even then there would be no consistency in the way the feathers are glued on, does it matter with four feathers. I feel pretty dumb, anyone have a solution?

Thanks DK

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #33919

I actually have been messing around with my shooting form and have managed to get my draw down to about 30.5. I have to lean forward a little and open up my stance but I think it will work. It is actually more conducive to hunting. I was standing straight up and not leaning in at all, pretty much like an olympic shooter would. I found that this very erect posture left me exposed when close to big game this fall. I think a broadhead will touch my nuckle when at full draw. I have heard people say that this is dangerous and I have heard it is a blessing because of the consistancy it creates. I will just have to see. My Doug fir shafts are in the mail. Any thoughts on a BH touching my nuckle would be appreciated.

DK

[DK]

in reply to: GPS Suggestions #27542

My work bought me a garmin oregon It is a bit pricey. I don’t remember how much. It has a touch screen and is really easy to use. I am pretty sure it comes with topo built in for the continental US. I got a card that installs under the batteries that will show land status layers so I can tell the difference between tribal land and private. I really like it.

DK

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #23083

It is very dry here as well. That is all good to know. Steel wool. If there is anything else I missed feel free to let me know . I am brand new to this. I will send you a pic when they are done. Thanks.

DK

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #23057

Thanks R2,

Do I need to get them sealed within the first 24 hours? I will hang them from the points and use duco for the nocks. Good to know.

Doug K

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #22991

I got some shafts on the way. Is this the right process?

I was going to stain the back 10 inches with a water based craft paint. Do a little cresting with the same paint just not as watered down and then seal with Minwax. Let it drip dry. My only questions are do I need to protect the tapered nock and point end from the sealer to assure the point and nock adhere to the wood? And how quickly does this process need to take place? I am worried if I do this to all 12 arrows they won’t be sealed fast enough and possibly warp.

Thanks for the help.

DK

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #19185

Thanks for all the help everyone. I will get going on it. I am sure I will have some more questions. I am very excited.

DK

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #18477

Steve,

You will have to forgive my lack of knowledge. What is 9 inches of taper on the back end mean. I thought the back end tapered just enough for the plastic nock. I was looking pretty hard at sherwood shafts. What length do they come in when they are completely raw and what is your draw length. I think I will get the four sets of three test kit starting with 65lbs and work up. I shoot around 58lbs at 31.5 and will have around 150-200 up front. Does that sound about right. Or do you recommend starting with a stiffer spine. One more thing do you just use the pencil sharpener taper tool on Doug fir?

I am excited to try this. Once I get some money. Got a brand new baby and momma may not be to happy with me spending money on test kit material.:twisted:

Anyway thanks for the help everyone,

Doug

[DK]

in reply to: Thinking about trying wood arrows #18145

Any suggestions on where to buy the best quality shafts would be appreciated. There are a lot of companies out there.

Thanks again,

Doug

[DK]

in reply to: attempting high foc with new bow #10354

Thanks Doc,

I will check out the PM. I guess I will just have to try 340’s with all different heads. I am ordering a SBD string, that might speed it up and weaken it a little though.

Thanks again,

DK

[DK]

in reply to: attempting high foc with new bow #10298

Doc,

I agree that is a great source for tuning an arrow but I cant cut my arrows down at all because my draw length is 31.5. Is there anyone out there who draws over 30″ and is in the 55#-60# range. And what is your set up. Should I switch to 340’s? I dont want to because I have a feeling they will be to weak with 350-400 up front.

Thanks

Dk

[DK]

in reply to: ''The Hammer '' small game blunt #14054

I use a field point that is 50gr lighter than my what I usually shoot and slide a .38 special shell case over it. One wrap of electrical tape and call it good. Accurate enough for small game and free.

[Author]

Posts