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  • desertdude49
      Post count: 48

      If it’s the powder stuff then I can help. Valley Traditional archery has it. I have used this product for years and know all the ins and outs………

      Mark

      desertdude49
        Post count: 48

        Happy Birthday Dave from the California desert,,,,,

        desertdude49
          Post count: 48
          in reply to: Abbott Bows #40603

          I know Steve, he now has a web site. His bow are classy, well built, mild r/d bows. In no way speed deamons but shoot right where you look. A mild Thump in the hand. If I can be of any help shoot me a PM.

          desertdude49
            Post count: 48

            This IS some “Outstanding” information.

            Simply put….

            Thank You….

            desertdude49
              Post count: 48

              The Feather should lay flat against the shaft from the tip to the back. Adjust your jig, keep playing with in until you get full contact on all of the feathers base…..

              desertdude49
                Post count: 48

                Nope, just the way the picture came out. I haven’t treid them yet. Dave was going to do a little “Show and Tell” when he got his done. I have tried all type of point weights and in the end I keep going back to 125gr field points and 125gr Zwicky’s. Woods and Zwicky’s just look right together. I’m going to start another set for up coming deer season, I sure do like the way the Burned arrows came out. That was my first try at burning, I do like the camo effect…

                Thanks For all the Kind words….

                Mark “DD”

                desertdude49
                  Post count: 48

                  A couple of close up pictures of the fininshed arrows and some I made for me>

                  desertdude49
                    Post count: 48

                    We are almost done. Last part is to install the points. Remember to cut the shaft 1 inch longer than where you want the back of the point. this will alow for the taper. I use both the sander type and taper tool to do my tapers. Once you have all the tapers it’s time to install the points. Make sure you clean out the inside of the points (I use acetone).

                    I the heat some hot melt glue and put a dab on the point taper. I then heat the point and install, twisting to seat the point. While the glue is still hot I spine chech the point and adjust if needed. This is the same method I use for Broadheads. I then wipe the area between the end of the point and the shaft with a little Duco to seal the bare wood if there is any.

                    Time to go shoot and enjoy you work. Sorry for the spelling and the break inbtween the build.



                    desertdude49
                      Post count: 48

                      Ok sorry it’s been a while since my last post. Next step is to install the fletching. I use RW feathers so only point I want to mention is that make sure if you are just starting out, use the right fletcher (RW or LW) to match your feathers. I like the Bitzenberger type of fletcher. What ever works best for you. As for glue, I use Duco for all my wood arrows. There are other ways to install fletching, (Fletch tape) this is up to your preference. Note… make sure the feather is touching the shaft even, as picture shows.


                      desertdude49
                        Post count: 48

                        The next step for me is to add a little cresting. I use Testor paints and a fine brush. Cresting in personal, it’s what you want it to be. I like the saying “Less is More” or “Keep it Simple”. In the end it’s up to you. These are for a N.O. Saints fan…..


                        desertdude49
                          Post count: 48

                          Ok next part is installing the nock. This is very importent, make sure you aline the flat side of the nock to the flat grain as the picture shows. Also you want the rif so if it breaks it will be point side up so it will not got into your arm or hand.

                          desertdude49
                            Post count: 48

                            Nest step is Sealing. There are many different types of sealers, I use the gasket lacqure system or Minwax Poly or Spar…

                            For this build I used the gasket lacqure system, I dipped them 2 times then light steel wool and 2 more coats. This dries real quick.

                            I fully understand that this product lays on top of the wood and doesn’t penetrate. I have never had a single problem with this product.

                            **NOTE** must use DUCO cement with this system.

                            The other sealer I use is Minwax Poly or Spar. They are much better sealers and penetrate the wood better. I use this on my hunting arrows. I either dip or brush on 4 coats.

                            desertdude49
                              Post count: 48

                              I get the Powder Dyes from Valley Traditional Archery. Like I said you can match any wood type or color.

                              desertdude49
                                Post count: 48

                                Ok next part of this build is to stain and seal.
                                There are 2 types of stains that I like to use,
                                1. Alydine Powder Dyes.
                                2. Good Old Minwax.

                                For this build I will be using the Powder dye in American Walnut. With this you just add the powder to warm water and mix. You can add more powder to darken the stain.

                                **NOTE** Powder dyes will stain anything it comes in contact with!!!

                                You can make all types of colors with these types of dyes,
                                I mix bright orange with a little Maple to get a nice YEW color stain….

                                I applied the stain with a form brush, I’m just doing a cap stain on these arrows.


                                desertdude49
                                  Post count: 48

                                  The next step for me is the Straightening. there are many ways to go about this. For me working with cedar,fir, and chundoo, I use the “sight down the shaft” a flex against the bend method. This is where I rub the bend area to warm it up and bend it against the palm of my hand. I keep doing this until the shaft is stright or it’s off to the stump arrow pile.

                                  There are other ways using different tools and skills, this is the way I was taught…

                                  At this point is there any other method that You are using to straighten a wood shaft…..?

                                  Sorry for the bad picture, you get the idea here…

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