[David Petersen]

in reply to: Boots for CO Elk Season #61199

Todd — I’ve never had this problem with any rubber boots, including Bean, Schnee or El Cheapos. Likely has to do with the distinct build of your foot — maybe wide and/or high arch? All I can say is that I’m on my second pair of Beans (they last forever and when you wear something out, sole or uppers, Bean will do a full rebuild for $40, so that they last for two forevers) and never had that problem. Most Bean wearers get a half to full size large in order to accommodate extra socks when it gets cold. You can always return them after an indoor test wear. Be sure to get the “hunting shoes” and be sure to request speed laces. Cheers, dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Boots for CO Elk Season #60096

Carey — This is a frequent and good question, as recent as less than a week ago here. So if you have the time and energy, search around a bit and you’ll hit gold so far as a variety of experience and advice. For my part — 30+ years living and elk bowhunting in CO — it’s L.L. Bean’s “Maine Hunting Shoe.” Period. I have bragged on this great minimalist boot for so many years, I can’t believe they haven’t sent me one single free pair of boots! 😛 Ahh, but I love them anyway.

Seriously, I spend almost all of my hunting time sneak hunting, stalking bugling bulls, or sitting on stand. If you plan to “walk and talk” (aka “bugle pollution”), you will want something a bit less sensitive and a more supportive. Depends on if you are seriously hunting, or just walking. Lots of folks don’t make a distinction, but they eat less wild meat than those who do make the distinction. 😀

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Good arrows that won't break the bank? #59844

Smithhammer’s question about inserts for carbons brings up another question of interest to a lot of us: Which popular carbon shafts today use standard size inserts and nocks, for instance Carbon Express …. and which shafts require off-sized internals, for instance Grizzly Stick? For starters, a simple list of all carbon shafts that take standard inserts would be most helpful. I for one will never (again) buy carbons using off-sized internals. The industry would do shooters and themselves a favor by standardizing, but for now just being able to eliminate off-sized shafts when shopping, without a lot of individual research, would be most helpful. For example, I’m ready to buy another half-dozen shafts. I’ve been really pleased with CE250s but would certainly try another brand for equivalent price, so long as it uses the same standard internals, which are much easier to find and generally cost less. Thanks, Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Who's Hunting the Late Season? #58794

Jody — Another reason not to use a rifle on big game unless all other meat options are exhausted, is lead contamination of meat. I recently went to a seminar on the topic, which included graphic photos and electronic imaging showing that microscopic specs of lead saturate the meat as much as 6″ from the pass-through channel and more if the bullet strikes bone. Only way to be lead safe is to shoot ’em in the middle of the ribs and toss the ribs and heart, etc., or carve out anad toss a lot of meat that appears perfectly fine. Unless you’re shooting poisoned arrows, no such worries with a steel broadhead. I hope your wind there in AR dies down and your luck pics up soon. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: number of thread #58786

It will depend largely on what kind of string you are using. Linen/B50 has more strands, while fast flight has fewer, and it varies among makers. Check out Silent But Deadly Bowstring online. It’s a very thin, well-made and exellent string and I think even at that high draw weight their chart will recommend 8-strank. Others here will (I hope) wade in with more opinions and suggestions. You definitely want FF for a Widow.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Fletching & moisture resistance #58783

Gary, you won’t need to waterproof your feathers unless you plan to hunt in the rain. While some will differ in opinion, I advise to stay away from all moisture-based waterproofers for feathers, from duck oil to silicone. Most mail-order trad archery suppliers sell a white powder, Fletch Dry is one brand, that you rub into the feathers. Unlike the liquids it doesn’t get oily and attract dirt, and it doesn’t make the feathers stiff and loud in flight. Nothing holds up in a prolonged downpour, but we’re usually running for cover then anyhow, not really hunting. If you arrows are properly bare-shaft tuned you can shoot fine with wet flat feathers, though they make a loud “Pop!” sounds on release and you may get a cold water shower in the face. IMHO

[David Petersen]

in reply to: My newest set of woods #57731

Nice work, Nick! I like how you faded (or is it feathered?) the different colors. That’s the problem with woodies — a guy just wants to keep making more of them, there are so many creative possibilities. Carbon is utility. Wood is art. 😀

[David Petersen]

in reply to: recurve vs longbow #57401

David — I think you nailed it with the distinction between factory bows and custom bows … that, quality of materials and manufacture, can make a lot more difference than whether it’s a recurve or longbow. Until recently a primary advantage to recurves for hunters was that they could be quite short and still not stack, shock, or shoot erratically, as will a short Hill style longbow. But as Bruce (Smithhammer) points out, the newer hybrid deflex-reflex longbows have changed everything, with Shrew leading the way in a growing field of excellent short hybrid longbows with grips that compromise between the narrow flat handle of a Hill style and the deep formed grips of recurves. In my mind today, given equal quality of manufacture, I believe aesthetics — what feels best in your hand and most pleases your eye and artistic sensibilities — is the greatest if not only distinction between the two stickbow designs. I’m primarily a Shrew longbow shooter myself, but also love my 1968 Bear K-Mag recurve and my Osage selfbow. It’s all fun.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: another new tall guy question #57387

Welcome, 45. You are a tall guy! Kieth Chastain, in CO, is a fellow “Stretch” and a bowyer who makes bows especially for tall guys. You might check him out. He’ll talk your arm and both legs off, but is a solid dude and makes lovely bows.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Jessy Filled His Tag! #57386

Nice coaching, Joe. Congrats to you and Jessy. Dave

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Who's Hunting the Late Season? #57380

Nicely composed photo, Steve. Here in western CO the season is limited more by weather than by regulation. After being gifted with a lovely bull in mid-Sept. I immediately switched to an osage selfbow made by our own Clay Hayes, and started working on a cow tag, all weapons, good through Jan. 15. Finally the snow ended that since elk don’t come to drink when they can eat snow, so no ambush ops, and the frozen crusty snow makes stalking impossible. So a couple of weeks ago I got out the ought-six, walked up the hill, shot a cow, packed it out after dark with a friend and it was all done in half a day. (That’s not hunting, but only meat-gathering and I have no apologies.) Then I went to AR for a week of whitetail hunting. Had a great time but no buck. Now all I can think about is Coues deer in AZ in January. So for me, “late season bowhunting” increasingly means travel. I think I have what in the Marines we called “short-timer’s” attitude. 😀

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Arrow assembly (painting / sealing) #55375

Yes. I used to spray my shafts with Minwax Spar Urethane but it was a wasteful way to go about it. I suggest buying a dip tube and a can of good shaft finish, like Gasket Lacquer. Both are widely available via mail order houses and cheap. You just fill the tube with the thick liquid and dip the shaft in full length. A small hole in the rubber gasket in the lid squeegies off spare liquid as you you withdraw the shaft. Allow to dry a few minutes–it’s fast–and you’re ready to apply fletching. Leave the extra finish in the tube and seal with a solid lid. It last forever.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: hunting boots #55369

Jody has it right. By ordering your usual size, thus, you are ordering a half-size large, which is how I like it. I don’t mind a bit off looseness in my shoes (like the old blues song says :lol:), and the extra room allows for foot swelling on a long hot hike and plenty of room to adjust sock thickness and layering. The Bean hunting boot does have a different sole and other minor differences and is a good boot, but not so fine-tuned to the needs of trad bowhunters as the legendary “shoe.” If properly maintained, they are so waterproof that even with older boots I can blast them off with a water hose when they’re particularly muddy, and still not get my feet wet.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: Snake skins #55177

Jody — Given the deman for copperhead skins, and if your snake traps work, you may just have found a booming new business. 😀 What I’m wondering is how you safely kill and extract a venimous snake that’s glued down but still alive and not in a charitable mood? 😛 Keep us posted.

[David Petersen]

in reply to: hunting boots #55167

Hello Coldpak and welcome. This is a question that comes up often and garners a huge variety of responses and opinions, a good thing. I’ll start the voting in favor of the L.L. Bean Maine Hunting Shoe (their hunting boot is similar but not as good). It’s in fact a high-topped, leather upper/sealed rubber bottom, uninsulated boot. It’s extremely light and while the soles are substantial enough to protect your feet through just about anything, they are thin and soft enough to allow you to feel small objects, like sticks, before you put full weight down. Short of mocs, which have limited application, the Bean boots are the quietest you will likely find. If you keep the leather uppers treated with Montana Pitch Blend, they are absolutely waterproof, and scent-proof if the outsides are clean. Cost about $100 and last for many years. One thing I don’t like is that they have eye laces all the way to the top, which is slow and requires removal of gloves. But now you can request speed laces for no additional cost. Because they are thin and uninsulated, they aren’t warm. I order a half-size large to allow wearing heavier socks when it gets chilly, but in CO in Sept. you aren’t likely to encounter snow or deep cold so it’s no biggie. Some folks with weak ankles say they don’t supply enough ankle support, but that’s a personal physical thing. I have been packing elk with them for decades and simply by tightening the laces I get all the support I need. So there are the pros and cons of my favorite elk hunting boot. I totally avoid the popular over-ankle leather and/or fabric boots because the waterproofing doesn’t hold up, they are heavy, stiff and loud, and spread the smell of sweaty feet everywhere you walk. 😛 IMHO

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