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in reply to: Unscented leather boot conditioner #132048
Interesting question —
As yawl mentioned sno seal is a classic choice and might even “seal” some of your odor in —
I have been using Montana Pitch Blend, it works well and smells like pine. Built in cover scent if you hunt near pines —- .
I have played with most of the cover scent / scent lok stuff and have come full circle back to just keeping clothes, boots, arm guard, bow, glove, etc and me washed ( scent free soap) with application of some cover scent where applicable. As we all know, keeping the wind in your favor is what works best and is the trad art and challenge of it all –IMHO.
In my younger days I was horseback hunting guide in the Mountains of NM. We would render the fat from bears taken, to oil and use it on our boots, tack, etc. I thought it really cool at the time ( still do, as I have some bear oil ) of course what I wonder about is — how much better it is to smell like one predator vs another ? Hmmn? Is the Bear scent more natural? Less spooky than human scent? Of course for bear hunting might be the perfect choice. Any thoughts on this —-
I know it caused much consternation from friends Pet’s (who had never smelled a real bear to my knowledge) when they sniffed my boots – made them very wary and on alert. Is it something in the dna? – eons of collective memory? –
Scout
in reply to: Chasing Solitude – moose film #131993Mr Mitten
I hope you have a great showing! SRO —
Let us know when the film’s available for those of us out west.
Thanks
Scout
in reply to: Damon howatt hunter brace height Q #131944Hi Kevin
I am hardly an expert on Howatt bows – but believe the brace height should be in the 7.5 – 8″ range. It is my understanding that the factory still makes some of the Howatt bows and they are sold thru Martin Archery, you might give them a call. I personally always try to find out the bowyers / factory recommendation for brace height and stay within it – less chance of future problems — . As you know, twisting the string in and out is done to adjust brace height. Since you are only getting 6.25 with the string you have, I am wondering if it is the right string ( too old / worn /)? Martin might have, or recommend where to purchase the proper size/type string for their bow.
A Howatt collector on another site had a number for the (Howatt) factory – 509 248 6900 – might be worth a try.
Scout
Hola Alejo
You bet. Glad I could help, or at least give some positive reinforcement.
Let us know how it finishes – send some pics of the final set up when you get those arrows grouping center at 80 !
Good arrows
Scout
Hi Mark
I was hoping one of the bowyers here would pop up, but I guess not. I don’t know enuff about the subject to give a useful answer.
You might try PMing Stephen Graf . I know he builds bows and might have a suggestion, or at least steer you to someone who works with laminated bows.
Good luck with your project
Scout
Hola Alejo
It sounds like you have been shooting in the matches well, and for some time to achieve a veteran rating . Congratulations.
Varying tip weight and length of arrow should get you tuned up, especially in the transition zone.
Most of the serious target bows I have seen, use an elevated target rest. Have you tried one of these on your Samick Sage ? Might alleviate the bouncing problem with some of the arrows you mentioned.
If I ever get to Argentina I will definitely try to get together with you. Thanks for the invite. If you ever get to New Mexico I would be happy to visit with you likewise.
Good arrows
Scout
in reply to: Sanding Block #131702Mr Graf
Nice simple design. I think I will make a couple for my own use.
You should make them out of Osage, hickory or port Oxford cedar / Norway spruce etc and sell them to people who make there own bows and arrows. I started writing this as a joke , but on reflection I bet they would sell – haha.
PS – I get 15% for the idea — lol
Scout
in reply to: I'm back on the wagon (or is it off the wagon…) #131668You guys got me going now —
Need some more wood arrows again, so I think I will try to make my own. I “make” my own carbons ( and aluminium in the past) so have the basic idea and armed with Mr Conrads handbook and hopefully advice from Mr Preston and Mr Graf and any other of the good folks here on the forum – they will fly true*. I see a lot of folks, like the fir from Shorewood shafts and Steve likes Norway spruce – is one easier to build with than the other?
*as long as my form is good that day – haha
Ditto webmom’s remark – nice bear hunting article Mr Taylor.
In the early 70s I hunted in CA. Mostly the southern half – specifically FT Hunter Liggett. Good bowhunt for blacktails – though a bit warm. Got an x hunt once also.
Scout
Hola Alejo
P taylor did a great job on spine info for you. I have not used the spine calculator either. Would have to study it and then get back with any thoughts on the best way to use it. As p taylor said in closing once you find a arrow that flies well – use it.
At the ranges involved(60 -80 yds), I don’t think you will get an arrow, even playing with different weights, to fly significantly flatter than another. With any arrow, you will have to adjust your hold/ aim to hit the longer targets. This is especially true with a lighter weight bow.
Maybe one of the tournament archers could weigh in and give some advice for shooting/ tackle at the longer ranges. I don’t know if Jason Westbrock checks in here anymore or not? He just did a nice article on buck fever recently.
Can you hunt in Argentina with a bow? I have a number of friends who gun hunted there in the past. They all said they enjoyed the country and the people immensely. I have it on my places to go list.
Scout
in reply to: Stump Shooting #131621Alejo
Sounds like archery – ” kick the can” haha. Good fun and good practice.
I am afraid it would break too many arrows in the area around me – too rocky.
I would have to go to the sandy wash across the river —-
I like the idea for shooting in camp – I’ll have to make one up
Scout
Alejo
You bet – happy to help
Sounds like you are on the right track, getting your arrows tuned to the bow. Trying different spine and adjusting point weight and length to get them shooting well.
Get a copy of TJ Conrads Traditional Bowhunters Handbook it is a great guide, and I find it very helpful.
Let us know how it goes
Where do you live?
Scout
Troy
You bet, glad too
I shoot (mostly) everyday. To save wear and tear on me physically, I shoot my lighter bows more ( and to help maintain form).
Dwyer bows are top notch. I see he is not taking orders at the moment, so they must be very popular also.
Good luck on your future archery endeavors
Scout
Mr Delaney
What Dwc said—
I have always believed the most important aspect of taking game cleanly, is a razor sharp broadhead on a well tuned arrow — Provided of course the arrow is placed properly in the vitals ( and a 40lb bow helps in acquiring/ maintaining that accuracy). As David mentioned be sure the bow and tackle meet your state’s requirements to hunt with. I check the regs every yr. These days it’s seems they are constantly being “adjusted”.
Enjoy the journey
Scout
in reply to: Chasing Solitude – moose film #131252Mr Mitten
I enjoyed your book – One With The Wilderness, very much. While following along on your adventures, it brought back a lot of fond memories of my own hunts there.
Looking forward to your new film.
Scout
Hola Alejo
Welcome to the forums —
These days I shoot mostly “instinctive”, and I havn’t shot past 30yds in yrs. Last time I released an arrow at a 80yd target was in college. So can’t give any advice on the long range questions.
Are you actually drawing 29.5 ?
According to the 3 rivers* arrow spine chart, it looks like you are near the break Over point between spines. You might want to try a 600 spine carbon shaft. That might shoot better in your bow.
Of course – shooting at the longer ranges will magnify any mistakes in form, causing arrows to go astray. I know it definitely would hinder my accuracy at the ranges you mentioned
Scout
* 3 rivers is an archery shop that advertises in tradbow.
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