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  • Clay Hayes
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      Wexbow wrote: Clay, I presume you’ll be offering this for sale on dvd?? I will definitely purchase if so. Looks fantastic! 8)

      The plan is to tour the summer 2014 with a film festival. After that, I would like to upload straight to vimeo and youtube so everone can see for free. I’m not trying to make a profit on this film. It’s just something I’ve been wanting to do for some time. No need to buy anything except a ticket to a showing if you want to see it on the big screen. I don’t have the details on the film tour yet.

      JM, there’s a link at the top of this thread that’ll answer your question.

      Clay Hayes
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        in reply to: woodies 101 #19475

        Dave, I’ve never really thought about the nock not having a seal. I don’t think it would matter much though. The constant shooting would likely wear any coating off the insides of the nocks anyway. You could wrap the sinew first then dip as you say if it worries you.

        I’ve never used a triangle file like you describe. Mainly because I’ve just never thought of it. It should work well, and may help keep everything even better than just folded over sand paper like I use.

        I sometimes use poly on my bows, but mostly use tung oil. Both work well.

        Clay Hayes
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          Wexbow wrote: Fantastic footage Clay especially when viewed from my country where the last wolf was shot in 1786 🙁 It means we have great farming conditions but no truly wild country anymore.

          There’s a lot of folks here in Idaho that would be happy to send you a few!!

          Agreed, they do add a little something to the wildness of a place. Even though they can push the elk around, it’s pretty cool to hear them howling when camped in the backcountry.

          While still hunting up a ridge last September I had a small wolf come to within 8 yards before spooking. She must have thought I was an elk. I tried to get the camera on her, but it all happened to fast. Still pretty cool. About half an hour, and a few hundered yards, after she came by I bumped a bull and cow out of there beds.

          Clay Hayes
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            in reply to: woodies 101 #18444

            you’re right Dave, I don’t tie the ends of my sinew down. The sinew lays really flat and I don’t have any trouble with it unraveling. One thing I failed to show on the video is that you need to roughen up the area where the sinew will go. Otherwise the glue doesn’t stick to the poly very well. TB3 works well and I use it on occasion. But even with elmers, or hide glue for that matter, i don’t have much problem with moisture loosening the sinew. It could be a problem if you spent much time in really wet conditions though. I’ve been out in rain with no problems.

            If you do a lot of shooting like me, the sinew will wear a little. It’s mostly where my glove contacts the shaft. When fibers start to lift, just take a little glue and wipe over the nock to settle them down.

            I think the taper tool is a true center. There’s no markings on it. I bought mine used for 15 bucks.

            I haven’t figured out the whole online store thing yet for the shirts, so they’re not on the website. You can see the graphics I’ve designed by visiting the facebook page (accessible through the website.

            ch

            Clay Hayes
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              in reply to: woodies 101 #17367

              I usually dip the safts a few times. Good point. I should have mentioned that. I’ve never used linseed oil so I can’t offer much on that.

              I do alot of stump shooting/shooting into the dirt which will wear the finish off the front third of the shaft after a while. At that point, I just do a little sanding then dip the arrow again. Or whatever length needs it.

              The humidity can swing widely here as well. dry during bow season, but pretty humid later on. I’ve never had any trouble with my arrows getting too dry when sealed with poly only.

              ch

              Clay Hayes
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                In addition to the good advice above, I’d expand a little on what Dave said about timbered benches. Elk tend to bed up on isolated benches. Look for features on your topo where the slope flattens out a little (it doesn’t have to be much) somewhere off the main ridge. Also, saddles on little, out of the way, finger ridges are good for holding elk mid day. Water’s not so important in my country. It’s everywhere. And, unlike southen Idaho, I’ve never seen an elk at a wallow in north idaho.

                In the country I hunt, I’ll key in on smaller, isolated timber harvests (clearcut or otherwise) or recent burns on north slopes during the early morning. They tend to be too warm on early season afternoons, but they’re cool enough in the mornings for elk to be using them. The sunlight hitting the ground stimulates forage production, and the north slopes tend to be moister and cooler.

                ch

                Clay Hayes
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                  tradhunter1 wrote: Unfortunately I only have access to the net on my iPad this summer and can’t view adobe flash player videos. Being familiar with your videos, I know I’m missing out on something special. 🙁

                  Troy

                  Troy, I’ll eventually upload it to youtube as well.

                  Clay Hayes
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                    love it, and looking forward to the full feature. I know it’ll be great

                    Clay Hayes
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                      in reply to: QUESTION FOR CLAY #56814

                      Hi john, sorry for the late reply. I’ll sell a stave on occasion, but don’t generaly because it’s so hard to come by here in Idaho and, as Dave says, shipping is crazy high. Sometimes I’ll take a few to 3D shoots to help pay for the trip. If, after looking around, you can’t find something that you’re satisfied with, shoot me a PM.:wink:

                      ch

                      Clay Hayes
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                        blacktail wrote: i thought i seen a glass bow in there.and i thought NO clay wouldnt do that.LOL

                        Heck no… That’s my partners bow. I’m to darn stuborn to upgrade to glass:P

                        Thanks for the support guys, I’m not trying to make any money off this film. The plan is to submit it to a film tour then, once that term is up, upload to vimeo and youtube for everyone to see for free. But we’ll have to see how that all shakes out.

                        ch

                        Clay Hayes
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                          in reply to: Making fletches! #44624
                          Clay Hayes
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                            in reply to: woodies 101 #42383

                            gigglemonk wrote: Dave

                            Elk sinew is nice and long. I dont see any difference in performance though. Deer, elk, cow, bear, all does the same job.

                            Yep. I’ll try’n do a short vid on preping sinew this fall, for use adn storage. i just lay the backstrap sinew side down on a board and filet it off just like a big fish. Then, if there’s any meat left I’ll scrape it off with a spoon. Then just let it dry and It’ll keep forever.

                            Clay Hayes
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                              in reply to: woodies 101 #40929

                              I strip featers for use on primitive arrows. I wouldn’t think you’d have trouble tearing them if you had a good glue between the fletch and shaft. Are you gluing the length, or just wraping the ends with sinew?

                              Clay Hayes
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                                in reply to: woodies 101 #40857

                                I’m not sure why you didn’t see the portion of part 3 when I wrapped the nock end with sinew. It’s there. check it out again.. maybe it skipped on your connection.

                                I use real sinew. when it dries, you can barely see it. It’d lay much flatter than the fake stuff.

                                I’m not sure about where to get another saw blade like the one I used. I’ve had it for a while. Just found it lying around and started using it. I just had it in a hacksaw frame. I used a bandsaw for a long time until I broke the blade and never got another. For some reason, Home Depot doesn’t carry replacement blades for the saws they sale. Go figgure.. I’d widen the nock with sandpaper after the first cut.

                                The glue I’m using is locktite. It dries clear. I’ve been using it for the past few years. I’ve never had a fletch come off.

                                ch

                                Clay Hayes
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                                  Hi JP, handirifle gives some good advice. I’ll just say again that I raise a bur with a course stone or file before cutting it off and proceeding to the next step. Really, after the bur is cut off, the blade should shave, but it’ll be a little rough. Moving to a finer stone, the truck window in my case, just serves to refine an already sharp edge.

                                  If you raise a burr and cut it off before going any farther I think you’ll get things shaving.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 349 total)