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in reply to: woodbows.com reviews #35699
Wolfshead wrote: Google poorfolkbows it has a tutorial on how to make a red oak board bow there on the cheap.
I made my first bow from the info there
Great website. I’ll look into this some more. Thanks
in reply to: Staining a pattern #31847My bow came in a few days ago and the dye came in the day after! I just went to home depot and picked up some english chestnut finish, some satin spray on sealer, a paint brush, and some sand paper. I’m ready to start. The stencils are made the bow is beautiful, but there is one problem. I just saw some shots of some old tiger stripe gun stocks. They’re beautiful and now I’m kinda leaning toward that direction. The colors I have will still work well to create the design, but I have no idea how to accomplish it.
I’ve seen some one dye a light color, brush on rubber cement, dye the darker color over top, then remove the rubber cement using a solvent, but that was on plastic not wood.
Has anyone done this or something like it on a bow?
in reply to: Staining a pattern #26756I just bought some Dark Mission Brown wood dye from woodcraft.com. I’ll also pick up some of that spray on sealer. I really like the color and I figure if I mess up the design I can just make it solid. I’ll be sure to post some pics of before and after once I get everything together. Wish me luck.
in reply to: Staining a pattern #25358David Petersen wrote: Bryan — You can easily create a lot better looking camo pattern than criss-crossing. One way is to simply stain a few inches one color, then the next few inches another, alternating through the length of the bow like that. You really only need two colors, or shades, so far as most game animals are concerned as they see in black and white. If you want to make it pretty for people, use any colors you like. The easiest and IMHO best is aniline (analyne?) dye, which is a powder you mix with water and apply with a brush or Q-tip or whatever. It dries almost immediately and you can overlap colors for neat patterns, which you can’t really do with oil-base stains. But if you don’t want to go to that trouble (most internet trad archery supply houses carry aniline) any old stain will do, though oil-based takes a lot longer to dry. I hope you enjoy the bow.
Thanks for the help. I found some on woodwork.com. If you click on the color chart you can see all their options. I like the Jacobean Oak and the Red Mahogany. Do you know how much I would need?
in reply to: woodbows.com reviews #10082Thanks for the tip on Rudder Bows. I checked them out and with a rebate coming in, I can’t think of anything better to spend my money on. I’m really looking at their bamboo backed hickory longbow. The “D” profile instead of the R/D one. Is there a big difference between the two styles?
in reply to: woodbows.com reviews #51892codger wrote: I also own a Rudder bow mine is Bamboo and hickory it was really inexpensive compared to some of my other bows and shoots excellent its 60#@28″
its a fine bow shoots very well and has very close arrow speed and cast to most of my laminiated fiber glass longbows of the same poundage. The Rudder bows at least mine has an arrow shelf rather than shooting off the knuckle. You might give that some thought having a shelf might make it a little easier for a new archer. I being a picky old dude have developed a fondness for Bamboo longbows they seem to produce less handshock than other materials in my experience. I currently own seven longbows six are bamboo and have owned about 35 longbows over the years. you should really see if you can try some different bows prior to making a purchase just to see what feels right to you.
The only problem I have is that the closest shop that sells bows is a bass pro shop an hour and half away, and their selection of longbows are way out of my price range. They mostly sell compound bows. I love the idea of super simplistic longbow. I’ve never liked the gadgets and gizmos of most modern bows. I kinda got to go on faith a little bit.
in reply to: old ben pearson bow #45135The bow is apparently on consignment. She said all negotiations go through the current owner and he doesn’t negotiate on his prices.
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