[aeronut]

in reply to: Lets Do a Build-along #51536

Here ya go Steve. This is the drill press version.

http://www.newoutdoorcore.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5493

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Lets Do a Build-along #51535

Steve, I will do some searching and see if I can find the drill press version and post a link for it.

Duncan, My lathe is a cheapie I bought at Harbor Freight many years ago. It isn’t very big (only about 3′ long) and is light enough that I can set it under the workbench out of the way.

WIcanner, Here is a soundbyte.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Lets Do a Build-along #50848

Now for the final assembly. The little raised portion in the pot that is left where the bolt held the pot to the mounting plate serves a purpose. This will be a slate-over-glass call and I glue a small 2.5″ diameter glass disk to it with liquid nails. This gives the call a little more resonance. I bought the glass disks at the same place as the slate.

Now I glue in the slate. After autographing and sealing the bottom of the call with beeswax it is ready for the woods.

These calls are pretty easy to make and are great to give as gifts to family and friends for birthday presents and such.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Lets Do a Build-along #50847

Now I set up to make the striker. I make the strikers out of Hickory so I start with a piece of stock 1″X 1″X 8.5″ and mark the center on both ends.

Then I mount it in my lathe and cut down the corners with my Great-Grandpa’s draw knife. This makes the stock removal easier and is easier on my nerves as I don’t worry as much about launching a high speed piece of wood out of the lathe. Been there a couple of times too many. 😯

Now I round out the stock.

I work on the head first and go on through the sanding stage for it. The design is strictly whatever looks good at the time, there is no set pattern for this.

Now I start working the rest of the stem down to size, around 1/4″ in diameter.
Almost there. It is down to about 3/8″ so I make real light cuts from here on out. It would be easy to launch across the shop at this stage.

Down the the finish sanding stage.

I put on a coat of beeswax and cut it free of the head and tail stock, sand down the ends and seal the head with beeswax. I leave the tip bare.
Finished striker.

[aeronut]

in reply to: Lets Do a Build-along #50845

Now we need some sound holes. I mark the inside of the pot in six places with my precision indexing and marking system.

My index marks.

And marker.

Ready for the drill.

I decided to make two different sound holes in this one. Three 3/8″ holes and three 1/2″ holes. I grabbed my forstner bits and headed for the drill press. Use a back up board to drill through so you won’t splinter the bottom of the pot when you pass through the bottom of it.

We are finished with the pot for the time being.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Lets Do a Build-along #50843

The next step is to hollow out the pot. I start out with a 1/2″ gouge to remove most of the wood and then square up everything with a home made tool. I took a piece of 1/8″X1/2″ tool steel and welded it to a 1/2″ diameter steel rod. I then glued this into a 3/4″ dowel rod for a handle. It makes an excellent wood turning tool. I cut the depth to within 1/8″ of the bottom.

Next I cut a small ledge in the rim to hold the slate. I bought these slates from http://www.customsawing.com/ .

Check the fit.

Now I work on the outside of the pot and cut some decorative grooves.

I do the initial sanding of the pot with 120 grit sanding sponges and then finish with 320 grit paper and then steel wool. I then give it a coat of beeswax finish.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Bingham Projects #50286

I didn’t find it too hard to do. I had glued up two or three BBO’s before though. If you have access to one of the videos watch it until yu have it memorized. It will be a little easier on the first one if you have a helper, especially when you get to the point of putting the upper half on the press and airing up the hose.

I used to wear latex gloves but found they were more of a hinderance than a help. I just keep a rag handy to wipe my fingers off from time to time and some denatured alcohol will help clean the glue off your hands when you are done.

After the first bow you will probably be thinking about a next one and how you can do it a little better. And then a next one………and then……….

Dennis

Oh yeah….ya gotta post pictures of the process:lol:

[aeronut]

in reply to: Bingham Projects #46846

The first glass bow I made was a Bingham kit. I ordered a 50-55# longbow and followed the instructions to the letter. Came out at 68#’s and kicked like an old mule.:shock: I narrowed the limbs a bunch and lightened the tips and got it down to the mid 50’s. It is a fair shooter but still kicks a mite.

I look at that bow as my ‘get your hands dirty learning stage’.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Starting Some New Ones #45715

I will probably do Hickory core and Osage lams under the glass. I’ve made a couple with this combination and had good luck with them.

I may go with the Osage as the core and do stained Hickory lams on one of them. Just haven’t had enough time to make up my mind yet.:?

I also have some Leopard wood lams that I may use. There are getting to be too many choices:shock:

[aeronut]

in reply to: Ground Hunting #60045

I gave up tree hunting several years ago after having a couple of stands stolen.

I have learned a lot more about hunting since I started doing it at eyeball level with the deer. One thing to consider is that you may not have the best blood trail to follow even with a very good hit. Your entry and exit holes will be more level with each other and the majority of the blood will remain the the body cavity. Tracking skills are essential.

Being close for the shot is good but there are a lot of times when you are too close to the deer. I was within 10 feet of a big buck on two occasions and never had a shot opportunity. Frustrating, to say the least, but he never knew I was there.

I was close enough to touch a deer six years in a row. I never did though beause I have been bit, butted, kicked, stomped, and dragged by enough farm animals to know that it will probably hurt if I try to. I didn’t get close enough last year because of very little time to hunt.

My favorite one was the first one when a doe came from behind me and stopped next to the tree I was standing by just a foot away from me. She stood there looking around, chewing her cud, and finally looked to her left. When she realized what she was standing next to her eyes got real big, kind of like on a cartoon, and she blew snot all over my right leg. Scared the bejeebers out of me too because I wasn’t really expection that reaction.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Multitool Suggestions #16262

I have a Buck ‘Buck Tool’ that I got in a trade a while back. The thing I don’t like about it is the way the handles fold sideways. If you try to twist something the handles just fold in on your fingers and you lose the leverage you need.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Please introduce yourselves, I'll start #26038

Hi everyone. I’m an electric utility worker here in SE Ks. Been shooting bows for 44 years. Got into building bows 6 years ago and am addicted.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Who Shoots Hickory? #10105

I make and shoot them. Haven’t ever broken one yet.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Wood Arrow Build Along "Finished" #55307

I have three spine testers that I use to cross check each agains the other. I use the one I got from Kevin the most and also have an Adams and a dial indicator model that I machined out of aluminum. My homemade one is the most accurate but it is by far the slowest method.

One thing to consider about wood shafts concerning weight. When I was making and selling shafts I took great pains to make sure that I matched the weight within 10 grains in a dozen shafts.

Humidity plays a very big part in the weight of a shaft. A dozen shafts I would make in the summer during high humidity levels (80% or higher) would not weigh the same when I weighed them again in the winter (15% or so humidity) and vise-versa. Since no two shafts are exactly alike they will each react differently with humidity changes. I have had variations of as much as 60 grains on some of my shafts.

Hopefully I will be able to get back into the shaft making business someday. It is a fun endeavor and also very frustrating at times.

Dennis

[aeronut]

in reply to: Arrow Wood Characteristics #46797

Chad, I have some Ipe shafts that make Hickories look like featherweights.:D

Dennis

[Author]

Posts