[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Re-tuning my arrows #53071

GT 1535s are about the lightest spined carbons i can find. For now i’m just stump shooting, informal 3D shooting and occasionally flinging arrows at tree rats and rabbits but I would like to be able to hunt in the states one day so I would like to have a high FOC set up. At the moment i’m waiting on an order from Big Jim’s for some 100 grain inserts and 175 grain points as my test with 240gr overall up front gave me slightly better flight.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Re-tuning my arrows #38319

Snag32 wrote: What length are your arrows cut to? BOP? If you are drawing to 27″ you are shooting about 37#@27″. Might have to go longer on the shafts if adding point weight isn’t satisfactory.

My arrows are 29 and a half inches from the valley of the nock to the end fo the shadft. I’ve now bareshafted them with 250 grains up front and they still fly a little to the left, although though they fly perfectly fletched. I don’t know what BOP is sorry.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Re-tuning my arrows #30107

Thanks Norm! I found three 175 grain field points today which i tried but the arrows till seemed to have unstable flight and my bareshsft stil hit to the left, so i think i need more weight. i’ve been thinking of ordering some 100 grain inserts from the states and using these with the 145 grain points i have already, do you think this would be enough? That tape trick sounds good! I think i might improvise with nuts and small washers behind my three 175 grain tips and get a bunch of different weights to see what performs best, then once i find the right tip weight, order field points from the states in the same weight.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: New arrows- spine help. #36675

Thanks for all your help guys! My reservations about getting a higher point weight is also due to the fact that i cannot find any screw in points higher than 125grn in my country, and so have to order from the U.S which can be expensive for me. I think i may have to pass up this deal as much as it pains me, i didn’t realise how big the difference in spine is between my current arrows and the ones i wished to purchase. Thanks for all your help!

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: New arrows- spine help. #36085

Thanks Mr.Griz! Do you think if i left them long, 30″, it would be OK? i know that bareshaft shooting and varying point weights is the way forward, but i’d like to keep the arrow weight close to my carbon arrows atm and don’t want to put too much weight up front so if i could leave them long and have less point weight it would be better for me.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Back Quivers, let's see em… #44053

i have made a high capacity back quiver from some plans i found on the web. it is stiched with leather thong and has leather thong round the top forming an arrow seperator, and a simple strap i cut to fit my shoulder witha gold buckle for a bit of bling. it can hold about 20 arrows, i ahve never tried more than this, and although i like it, a bow quiver is much preferred in most cases because i can just pick it up and go.

i use a back quiver when i’m roving though.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Squirrel :) #35844

David Petersen wrote: Aaron — What weight was your blunt setup? I use hex-head blunts the same weight as my broadheads, very heavy, and get great results. Of course a broadhead is best for killing small game and birds, as it is for big game. But when shooting at things in trees, or on trees, the head and even arrow loss is prohibitive. Try that same shot with a 200-grain Ace hexhead and I’m betting you’ll have better results.

i got a field point and cut it off just below the shoulders. then i got a wingnut and cut it straight down at the top of both wings so it had to little forward facing, pointy ‘arms’ this came to 150grain. the arms were to catch on grass and stop it burying itself in the ground. i understand that, but in my mind i’d rather have a couple of lost arrows than a lost, wounded squirrel. the shot was square between the shoulders (about 2″ below it’s skull where i was focusing on, i think this was because i was shooting at an angle i wasnt used to). i’ll try the f.p washer set up. if i had some penetration on that it would have severed the spinal column and killed it quick rather than me having to scramble after it. i think i need to use something pointy rather than a bolunt because i only have 40lb.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Oldest Regular Equipment #34368

72′ bear kodiak magnum, my only bow 🙂 also i have a super warm army jacket from then as well

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: 40# for hunting? #25545

lyagooshka wrote: Aaron,

Here in PA, I believe the minimum draw is 35#, so you are good as far as that is concerned (I am assuming most other satated are similar, if not same). That said, with my (very) limited experience, I would say you are good for what you are doing/planning, up until you hit Bulgaria/Boar. Those are some nasty, well armored creatures. Before I began with traditional archery, I hunted some deer with a .44 lever action. Never got my bullet back. The 2 boar I killed with the same gun/load, I got both mushroomed rounds. Scary, to be honest. I am sure there are people who have successfully hunted boar with a set-up like yours, but I would look into it a bit more, just so your trip isn’t ruined by a wounded animal that isn’t recovered. Again, my experience is very limited, so someone may be able to elaborate. Hope it helps. Good luck and be well.

Alex

😀

yeah i thought boar might be a little ambitious, although i saw a picture on the bowhunting in bulgary sight i was looking at with a young lady with a 40lb compound with a huge boar. i understand that a 40lb compound has much higher speeds than my 40lb recurve, but if she could take down a huge tusker with her bow i thought maybe my bow would be capable of taking a smaller one.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: 40# for hunting? #25542

handirifle wrote: If that setup is tuned for your bow it will be way more than enough for roe deer. I would check those same arrows with heavier heads just to see how they fly, but 14% is still pretty decent. I am sure many of us have hunted in the past with similar setups and never gave it a second thought.

yeah when i bought these i tested them with 125gr heads and 145 gr and they seemed to fly a little better (bareshaft) with the 145gr head so i’ll see what happens with 150 head or maybe a 150gr with a few of those small brass washers.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: 40# for hunting? #24748

thanks for the advice and not including the point in length my 29″ with 145g point has 14% foc which is pretty average i guess. just speculation about hunting at the moment, i’ll decide closer to the time. but who knows, febuary next year may be picture of me up with my recurve and a boar, i’m still lookign for a christmas present and a guided hunt may be jsut that 🙂

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Small game points? #16295

Prairie Prowler wrote: Charlie– Nice arsenal!

Dave beat me to it. Ace hex blunts are my point of choice. In my experience anything that has wings (i.e. Judos) tends to get caught up in sticks, grass, brush, etc. I do, though, like the Zwickey Condor for shooting doves/pigeons. The latest issue of Tradbow had a fun article about squirrel hunting. The author made a mini broadhead out of a small triangle of metal soldered onto a .38 caliber casing. Flu-flus are a must-have when hunting squirrels. There is a picture and description of an extremely effective modified flu-flu in this issue too. I like this style better than my 6×5″ full-size feathered flu-flus. Give it a try, you’ll be pleased.

And, yes! Post your pictures, let’s see what you came up with.

-Ben

that arrow looks awesome! i already have a load of 4×4″ flu flus fletched up but i’ll definitely try that in the future.

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Small game points? #16291

Stumpkiller wrote: These are my small game arsenal.

My favorite squirrel head is the Gamenabber (made now by PDP). It is a blunt with teeth around the shoulder. Third in from the left. The Ace Hex is great as well but costs a bit more. The Ace is a better roving head for stumps.

[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/Stumpkiller/Bowhunting/HPIM2021.jpg[/image]

The Tiger Claw (fifth in from right) gave me some horror story events with shots if they hit too far back and I use them on easier to kill bunnies.

that sure does look like a mean-head, the gamenabber that is. the one next to the broadhead looks interesting (magnus is think?) have you tried that on squirrels? never heard of having a blade on a small game point. thanks for your help buddy 🙂

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Small game points? #16287

David Petersen wrote: Aaron — That’s a lot of work, but if it works and you enjoying making your own, why not. To answer your question, though, from threads like this before, it seems that most who have tried the hex-head blunts, such as Ace, really like them over anything else. And compared to Judos they are cheap. The head is bigger than on a straight steel blunt with sharp edges so that you get both shock and cutting. Check ’em out.

it’s not so much work, three quick cuts with a hacksaw and a little bit of filing to put an edge on the winguts. i like to keep things as cheap as possible, but if these turn out not to be effective on squirrels i will dump them and go for a manufactured head. thanks for your help 🙂

[Aaron Rushton]

in reply to: Small game points? #15789

right i just decided to go for it. i weighed my field points and wingnuts together and they were well over 250gr, so i cut the tips off my field points and cut down the wings of the wingnuts off the edge so they’re more like points,weighed them and they were about 155gr so a little over my 145gr field tips but close enough. screwed them on to an old flu flu shaft, they looked awesome, hung a tin can off a tree branch and let fly with my 40lb kodiak. result: blew a hole straight through it, with the arrows going through right upto the fletching 😀 sent the can flying back about 10feet. squirrels be very afraid. if you want pics i can upload them 🙂

[Author]

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