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in reply to: Ground Hunting #22439
Even though they seem to have opposite opinions, I find myself in general agreement with both Biggie and Mike (and great to have you both in the conversation). Strategically, there’s a time and place for treestands. From a personal satisfaction or esthetical point of view, ground blinds made from natural materials are easy, cheap and a relative joy to sit in. Some folks always hunt in a way as to maximize their chance to kill. Other folks always hunt the way they find most enjoyable, even if it lowers their kill rate. Many of us do both, depending on the mood that day. As someone here likes to say, it’s all fun. 😀 ttf
in reply to: short longbow recommendation #14688Fletcher — Can you please provide website links for either of these? Thanks, ttf
in reply to: Questions about strings, twists, and brace height #13944If the bow is loud with a heavy arrow and string silencers, you may be braced too high. Try untwisting the string to take it down gradually until it gets quiet. If the brace height is too low you’ll know because the string will start slapping your forearm. Enjoy.
in reply to: Don Thomas Deer carry method? #13934Photo, photo, photo …
in reply to: Bigfoot caught on trail cam! #13930Smith — what I tiny waist that screamer has! She must be Vampira’s sister, a perfect mate for big foot.:twisted:
in reply to: GrizzlyStik questions #11601In my experience everything ABS sells is first-rate, and expensive. In the early days there was a “weak side” to the GrizStik shafts that really complicated things if you did your own fletching, as I do. These are the shafts I have, but I’ve heard this is no longer an issue. They darn sure are tough and consistent and the taper allows for mazimizing FOC. But as you suggest, cutting them down in length is a problem — you have to do it from the back rather than the front, requiring removal and replacement of feathers. Of course if you bare-shaft tune, you can do any necessary cutting before applying feathers. Those are the pros and cons I have experienced. But what I most often hear others complain about the GS shafts are that they aren’t standard size and you have to buy replacement nocks, etc., from ABS. They’re widely available, but it’s just another hassle. In short, it seems that guys who love ABS and GS are 100% believers and don’t mind the hassles. If you’re not in that camp, you could be disappointed. I’m trying to be on the fence, as that’s how I feel. First-class gear, but it don’t come cheap or easy. ttf
in reply to: Don Thomas Deer carry method? #10731Wild — while you didn’t seem to have taken offense at my sloppy post, I see now that you rightly could have. I was making fun of my own family history, not you or your perfectly logical question. The harder I try to be funny, the stupider I get. We used to have Patrick to rely on here for laughs, but he must of gone serious on us lately. Anyhow, I meant no harm and glad you didn’t interpret it that way. ttf
in reply to: off the shelf #10727ABH — you are welcome here and as a beginning trad archer may want to look back across recent threads on the Trailhead forum, which deals with start-up topics. The cock feather goes out (except when correcting for specific rare problems, which we won’t confuse issues with now). Most shelf-shooters (and many custom trad bowyers today) leave a small opening between the shelf (bottom) pad and the window pad, where they meat, so that the lower inside feather has that tiny space to pass through and doesn’t have to fold down to tight. That’s what I go for when fletching arrows, and what you can control by adjusting the angle of the arrow nock — the cock feather should be high enough to just clear the shelf, with the “5 o’clock” feather passing through the corner notch. Hope I didn’t confuse you. Others can say it better and a picture would say it really good. ttf
in reply to: Don Thomas Deer carry method? #10590Snakeater — Ho-ho! Guys, this is at best of times the Funniest of any hunting website. And in this world we need all the laughs we can get!
Now, what I want to see is an un-doctored (get it re Don T.? get it?) photo of someone carrying a whole elk or moose out on his back! 😆 In my family, my paternal grandfather is credited with “winning a bar bet” by lifting a thousand-pound (or so) wagon, tongue and all, off the ground and carrying it across the street. (Dirt street we can assume, and across to where the bar was located.) May or may not be, but it’s a fact that he suffered crippling back pain before death.
Same old “brains vs. brawn” (sp?) question. 😛
For any tough game that has bone and or gristle for an arrow to fight through, especially if the hit isn’t perfect (and we sure don’t live or hunt in a perfect world), the basics are the same, above and beyond the trite and often imaginative “perfect arrow flight and shot placement”: heavy arrow with as much weight up front (foc) as you can manage (carbon is unsurpassable for this) and a sharp two-blade head. While I fully appreciate all the proven advantages to a single-bevel head, most of us still can’t get them as sharp as we can double-bevels (in no small part due to broadhead manufacturers lack of uniformity in bevel angle and thus, lack of good easy-to-use sharpeners), so I’m back to double-bevels for anything smaller than elk or European hogs. One opinion, ttf
in reply to: Green Fire #8273Thanks, Jembo. Truly, Leopold (in his youth a bowyer and trad bowhunter) was far ahead of his times, and sadly, of ours. ttf
in reply to: EFOC with Wood? #59199Hey what an informative thread! I think most of us trad types prefer to shoot wood, but in the foc department carbon offers so much advantages. It’s great to learn that it can be done right with wood. And the shelf build-out info provides another fun experiment and hopefully a way to rescue underspined arrows that can’t be shortened any more. Thanks gents. ttf
in reply to: Eicholtz bow? #59193M — you might try the refinishing question in the bowmaking forum, as there are some very experienced folks there. I’ve not personally refinished any glass-backed bows, but probably the same finishes as used on new bows would work fine, the most accessible and cheap being a good spar-urethane like Minwax spray. The important thing is to keep moisture from reaching raw wood, and any old sealer will work for that including super glue, if you’re not worried about appearance. Cool old bow you got there. ttf
in reply to: wood for arrows #59189Mark — apparently none of us have (though you might try this in the bowmaking forum). But in any event, welcome aboard and it’s an entirely solid question you ask, despite our collective lack of experience with Englemann spruce. ttf
in reply to: winter elk hunt #30188No disrespect to the ops of Jesse or others, but there’s a time and place for everything and elk are for Sept. and vice versa. It’s the old “qualiry to quantity” argument, which can’t be won by either side since “quality” is so personal. Don’t get me wrong: I love hunting in deep winter — as far south as I can get. 😛
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