[Steertalker]

in reply to: El Grande flight tests #46868

Once sharp they are (IMO) the best broadhead made.

I couldn’t agree more:D

Dave….last I checked my arrows were pushing the 25-27% EFOC range. Out of my 72 lb recurve they fly right at about 180 fps. They’re plenty bad8)

Have a great season, be safe and stay healthy:wink:

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: El Grande flight tests #43169

Hey Dave…glad you finally got your left bevel El Grandes. I’m shooting pretty much the same set up: 200 gr right bevel El Grande with a 125 gr steel adapter, 100 gr brass insert inside a 30 1/4″ Easton Axis FMJ 340, 3 x 4″ parabolic fletch. Total arrow weight is about 807 grs. Hope that’s enough:D

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Stalk in these? #39717

I have a pair and they are wonderful. Where I elk hunt I often have to cross small rivers and streams so I take my Bean Hunting shoes off and put the Five Fingers on. Also wear them on my deer lease out here in W. Texas which is nothing but rocks, cactus and thorn bushes.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Going to Hunt Elk need some advice #30095

Dave is right about the obsidian point….if you are planning on hunting in Colorado. It is illegal in Colorado:

Excerpt from CDOW hunting brochure….

4.HAND-HELD BOWS: A long bow, recurve bow or compound bow on
which the string is not drawn mechanically or held mechanically under
tension. String or mechanical releases are legal if they are hand-drawn or
hand-held with no other attachments or connections to bow (except
bowstring).
a.Hand-held bows, including compound bows, must use arrows with a
broadhead having a min. 7/8-inch outside diameter or width and
min. 2 steel cutting edges. Each cutting edge must be in same planefor entire length of cutting surface.
b.Only legal, hand-held bows allowed during archery seasons.
c.Min. draw weight of 35 lbs. required. Let-off max. of 80 percent.
d.No part of bow’s riser (handle) or track, trough, channel, arrow rest or
other device (excluding cables and bowstring) that attaches to riser
can contact, support and/or guide the arrow from a point rearward of
the bow’s brace height behind the undrawn string.
e. Bows can propel only a single arrow at a time. No mechanisms for automatically
loading arrows allowed.
f. Scopes, electronic or battery-powered devices cannot be incorporated
into or attached to bow or arrow.
g.Hydraulic or pneumatic technology cannot be used to derive or store
energy to propel arrows. Explosive arrows prohibited.

As far as the 41 lb draw weight….well I just don’t have enough experience. However..I do agree with Dave in that I think it is much too light. I would have zero confidence in such a rig.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Bow hand index finger pinching #23306

I’m one of those guys, that when trying to bare shaft my arrows……

I say this with all do respect but it sounds like you are pretty new at this so I recommend not worrying about bare shaft tuning. Nock high or nock low…don’t worry about it.

You might try this, without tabs or glove nock an arrow and just start to draw so that you can see and feel whats happening and where your fingers need to be. It may be that you are holding more weight on the middle finger thus pinching the index finger between the string and nock, this may also have an effect when trying to set nock height.

All your experimenting, searching, problem solving should be done on a blank bale approximately 5-8 ft away. Since you’re having issues with your string fingers begin experimenting with different finger pressures first. I would recommend putting even pressure across all 3 fingers on the string. Deep hook, shallow hook…..all done on the bale with no aiming involved. Don’t worry about shooting a target. Immerse all of your thought into that string hand til you find what works for you without pain. The bale is your friend if you will learn to embrace it. It is where all the parts of your shot should be developed and fine tuned. Not on the target range:wink:

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Bow hand index finger pinching #22487

jjnap,

You might want to try a different tap or even a shooting glove. Other than that I can’t think of any reason for the pinched finger and callus other than your drawing arm is too high which is causing excessive pressure on that one finger. You should be able to work that out by shooting a blank bale to see what you’re doing wrong. Your fingers shouldn’t be taking a beating like that.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Opinions – What would you guys do? #62269

A backcountry elk hunt is not the place to be touchy feely. Bringing someone into the fold and teaching is better done on an easy hunt where people are well fed, have their own bed to sleep in and can get a shower everyday. Dave P. and Don T. nailed it……NEVER go on a wilderness hunt with someone you don’t know..PERIOD!
Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: 2 Blade double bevel and 3 blade vs single bevel #54115

And another thing….the WW’s tip will curl if it hits hard bone. The Grizz won’t:wink: Just my personal experience, that’s all. I’m just say’n.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Elk hunting tips #48835

In general I agree with Dave…calling can be counter productive [if] done improperly. On the other hand calling can be very effective if done properly even on educated elk.

With that said my tips are:

#1 learn how to call and know what you are saying to the elk and when to say it.

#2 and my main tip…..if and when you do attempt a call set up properly. Don’t be standing flat footed in the middle of a clearing or park. Examine the area and look for the best route for an elk to come to you and set up according taking into account the wind and cover. Call very sparingly…say 3 or 4 cow mews then sit quietly on “high alert” for at least 30 minutes for each setup. BE PATIENT!! In most of my experiences bulls came in silently unlike all the war stories you hear of them charging in screaming they’re heads off, blowing snot, dripping saliva and urinating all over themselves. That does happen, but more often than not, in my limited experience, they come in like a cat. They can be etremely quiet when they want to. Anyway…that’s what works for me:wink:

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Carbon vs Wood which is tougher #45441

I hear ya George…like I said…to each his own. Personally I’d rather spend my time shooting rather than spending all my time making arrows. With all the other things I’ve got going time is something I don’t have a lot of.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Carbon vs Wood which is tougher #45056

George,

Can you shoot woods/aluminums a long time(?)….most definitely. Are the dynamic characteristics of a set of woods/aluminums the same after two or three hundreds shots(?)….I doubt it. George…I don’t have 6 decades of shooting under my belt so I respect your experience. Nevertheless, the very nature of wood and aluminum causes them to wear out over time due to the constant flexing that they undergo. With wood the fibers begin to loosen up and with aluminum it’s the same thing as bending a piece of wire back and forth….it will get weak and finally break. The end result is inconsistant impact. Too me it’s just not worth the time spent to craft a set of woods to put up with that.

Anyway…to each his own. And I don’t cater to the crowd that believes carbons are less traditional than wood.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Carbon vs Wood which is tougher #40536

In my opinion this is a no-brainer….carbon is by far more durable and tougher than wood. In actuality both wood and aluminum arrows wear out over time. In my experience, a set of woods is worn out after about 50 shots. Aluminums….a bit more than that. On the other hand carbons are either not broken or broken. A set of carbons will last me indefinitely or until I break one….which is rare. They are straighter, more consistant in weight and spine and much easier to tune. As far as getting them to the correct weight, I’ve had no problems in that area as well.

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: ABS Ashby Broadhead #63044

Jason,

How long did it take you to get your Ashby heads??? I ordered mine back in August of 2009 and just got them about 3 weeks ago. Other than that they seem to be a good well built head and spin perfect on my shafts. I can’t say that for the very expensive German Kinetic Silver Flames. They don’t spin worth a darn and break easily. The Ashby heads are pretty sharp but still not as sharp as I can get my Grizzlies.

Dave,

Have you finally been able to get your hands on some left bevel 200 gr El Grandes???

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Heavy Judo points #48181

Great idea Sapcut!!! Now why didn’t I think of that???:roll:

I wish Zwickey would come out with a heavier version judo for we guys that shoot heavier bows.:?

Thanks!!

Brett

[Steertalker]

in reply to: Happy Birthday, David Petersen! #47403

Happy birthday Dave from West Texas!!

Brett

[Author]

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