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  • RedTape
      Post count: 51

      Thanks for the review. How do they feel when walking across rocks? Do you think they will hold up OK in rocky terrain or are the best suited for the woods?

      Let us know how they do in cold weather.

      RedTape
        Post count: 51

        sharpster wrote:

        Redtape,

        I have a saying… Sometimes you can get a knife too sharp for a particular application but, a broadhead can never be sharp enough.

        Ron

        Thanks for the info. I’ve always got my broadheads sharp enough to cut hair…but never quite to what I would consider a *razor* blade. This was partly because of the softness of the broadhead. I’m switching to Grizzlys this year and will plan on stropping them until they are properly sharpened.

        RedTape
          Post count: 51
          in reply to: Big Russian Boars #60624

          Oklahoma is starting to have some pretty serious problems with the pigs taking over..mostly hybrids rather than the pure Russians. They use to be mainly in the southeast, but can now be found throughout the eastern half, both on private and public land. The problem with pigs this time of year (unless you’ve got your own place) is locating them. They move around a lot and can be hard to pattern on public land. I think your best bet would be to locate a decent guide. I can’t point you to anyone in particular as I’ve only been on public land.

          RedTape
            Post count: 51

            Dr. Ed Ashby wrote: Just to add another important factor about ‘how sharp is sharp enough’, not only does your broadhead need to be “truly sharp” when it impacts an animal, it should be just as sharp AFTER it’s penetrated through the animal. If it’s not just as sharp at exit as it was upon entry then the broadhead has lost some of its cutting efficiency at some point during the course of penetration through the tissue(s). This retained sharpness makes the most difference (in recovery rate) on shots through tissue(s) that have few, or fewer, sizable blood vessels, such as stomach, intestival and pure muscle hits.

            This is a sharpness factor that I see few bowhunters paying enough attention too, and one that does affect the likelyhood of recovering game on many less-than-perfect hits. Sharpenss retention requires good quality steel in the broadhead, which generally also means a broadhead that takes greater effort to get ‘truly sharp’ in the first place.

            Ed

            Can you get a blade too sharp, i.e. fine, resulting in a rolled edge when impacting bone and therefore a lack of sharpness retention? Or would that be caused by using the wrong bevel angle?

            In the simplest of thinking , a finer blade would result in a sharper blade, however it would also make the blade weaker. Of course that’s not factoring in any other variable such as blade material, etc.

            RedTape
              Post count: 51

              I can’t imagine using anything but a bow quiver for big game hunting. I like the BOA and Great Northern for my longbows…in fact I prefer shooting them with the quiver. The additional weight seems to help steady things up, and has no adverse affect on bow performance.

              RedTape
                Post count: 51

                I’ve shot 1916, 2016, and 2018 in various bows. They shoot just as good as carbon in my opinion, but you can’t help but prefer wood!

                RedTape
                  Post count: 51

                  This is my deer bow, so I’ll probably go with the regular 160 grain Grizzlys, although I’ll probably try to get some of the 200gr. El Grandes worked up for my elk bow.

                  RedTape
                    Post count: 51

                    I know the regular Grizzlys are 2 3/4″ long by 1 1/8″ wide and the El Grandes are 3″ long by 1 3/16″ wide.

                    Does anyone know if the El Grandes have a different bevel angle? I plan on using one of these for the first time this year and am not sure if I should go with the Grizzlys or the El Grandes.

                    RedTape
                      Post count: 51

                      My favorite draw weight is 50#. It’s easy to shoot and if you can easily control the bow, you can focus on form and accuracy. It’s plenty of weight for whitetails/bears and with the proper arrow and broadhead selection I’m confident it would work on elk.

                      That being said, I have heavier bows that I use to keep my shooting muscles in shape and would certainly use those for larger game.

                      Ultimately you should shoot the heaviest bow you can control and shoot accurately. Its a compromise. A heavy bow might make up for a bad shot in a shoulder. On the other hand, if you’re over-bowed and can’t control your shots, you could just as easily make a poor hit wounding the animal. Accuracy and shot placement are essential.

                      RedTape
                        Post count: 51

                        You shouldn’t have any problems with a 44# bow for whitetails. The main thing to keep in mind is to use a good cut-on-contact broadhead and a heavy arrow. A broadside or slightly quartering away shot within 20 yards and you’ll be fine.

                        RedTape
                          Post count: 51

                          I was fortunate enough to hunt black bears in Saskatchewan when I was 16. My father, although not hunting, went with me and was in a tall birch tree about 20 feet behind me and to my right. The first bear that came out walked right under my stand, to my dads tree, stood up on his back legs and started shaking the tree while looking up at him. He started picking one of his back legs up reaching for the first tree step, and after missing it a couple times, got bored and sauntered off.:shock:

                          RedTape
                            Post count: 51

                            I don’t think it’s an age thing, but perhaps a change in our perception of society. I’m only 24 and have already lost interest in 95% of the catalogs and publications that are out there. I barley flip through certain magazines that I spent hours reading when I was growing up.

                            I lost my interest in compounds when I was 16. I’ve never had any desire for a modern inline muzzeloader – sidelocks for me. When my Sharps get here the bolt-action won’t be seeing the woods again. I’ve even trashed my “super-amazing ultra fantastic” 4-blade razors and now use my grandfathers 1963 Gillette adjustable (only when I’m forced to shave) and much prefer the old double-edge.

                            Hunting and sportsmanship have been destroyed by big business. It’s all about the cash flow now, and corporations have convinced the modern outdoorsman that he has to have the latest and greatest new product to be successful. Few care about the journey and experience anymore. It’s a shame.

                            RedTape
                              Post count: 51

                              My favorite bow is my 66″ 55# @ 28″ Lonetree longbow, and I hope to buy another one at 50# soon.

                              I also have a JD Berry Pin Viper that’s 64″ 62# @ 29″ and a Martin Hatfield recurve.

                              RedTape
                                Post count: 51

                                I guess how I shoot would be called instinctive. I simply stare at a spot, draw and hold for a second, and release. I’m sure the arrow is in my line of sight, but I don’t consciously think about it being there. I try to focus on nothing but the spot on the target I want to hit.

                                RedTape
                                  Post count: 51

                                  I have – and like – both, but I prefer the longbow. I can’t tell you why, I just do. My father prefers recurves…we still get along though :D.

                                Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 45 total)