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in reply to: EFoc and Carbon Arrows #51191
I’m fortunate, Dave. A lot of stuff I read or seriously take an interest in, I remember like nothing else. My wife swears up and down that I don’t have any memory at all, because she’ll tell me something, and ten minutes later, she’ll ask me what she said, and I’ll say “I don’t know.” Or we’ll have an argument about something, and later she’ll say she said this or that, and I’ll say, “No you didn’t. You said this.” LOL. I get myself in so much trouble for not paying attention when I probably should be. But if it’s something I’m keenly interested in, I generally can remember the details. It makes her mad. I just laugh about it, but to myself. lol
Michael.
in reply to: Getting into woods…What do I need? #50859I’m also considering getting into wood arrows, but making mine will most likely be a very slow process. This will help me with figuring out the highest priority items to procure.
Michael.
in reply to: The new copy of TBM on the shelves now. #50851Where’d you find it? I usually go to Smiths.
Michael.
in reply to: EFoc and Carbon Arrows #50034Richie,
I remember Dr. Ashby’s post about his demonstration. The first shot was with the rubber washer near the center of the shaft…about 6% FOC…your average FOC for compound shooters. The second shot was with the rubber washer farther forward, approximately 13 or 16% FOC, the average for traditional shooters shooting aluminum or wood arrows. The last shot was something like 23 or 24% EFOC, and that’s the one you’re talking about that hit the far wall of the lecture hall. And all he used for a launch mechanism was some sort of bungee cord. The “shaft” was a plain-jane, unfletched wooden dowel like you would buy at the hardware store. I don’t remember if he gave a length or diameter on it.
Michael.
in reply to: 2 Blade double bevel and 3 blade vs single bevel #50030Back to the original topic….I have, and shoot very accurately, the 150 grain Wensel Woodsman 3 blade. Great head. It neatly center-punched through an off-side rib on the last deer I killed, a whitetail doe at about 23 yards, slightly quartering away. Great heads…BUT, I can definitely see the benefit to having a broadhead with less surface area, as this causes friction, which causes less penetration. I also have in my possession, half a dozen 160 grain screw-in Grizzly single bevels. They fly equally as well as the Wensels, which is great, because I don’t have to do any kind of tuning to my current arrows. Anyway, that’s all beside my point. I did a little backyard test with each broadhead on identical arrows. What I did, was I took two pieces of T&G pine, identical in all physical respects, at least to my eyes (no knots, similar grain patterns, same length, etc.) and shot one broadhead into each board at approximately 5 yards. I believe both shots were basically identical in all respects, minus possible minor human flaw. The results were interesting. The Grizzly completely penetrated the board, plus approximately 3 1/2 to 4 inches of shaft, whereas the Woodsman did NOT completely penetrate the board. In fact, the very back of the blades on the Woodsman didn’t even completely clear the front face of the board. Both boards had approximately a 3/8 to 1/2″ split running lengthwise, but the extra blade on the Woodsman kept the head from penetrating completely. I have pictures somewhere, but must first locate them within the tangled jungle of my computer’s hard drive. LOL.
After I saw the results of the two shots, side by side, I decided that I liked the penetration characteristics of the 2-blade much better than the characteristics of the 3-blade. I’ll still keep the 3-blades to put on small-game arrows and for back-ups, but the 2-blades will become my primary hunting heads.
Michael.
Oh, and just a side-note…these arrows were roughly 585 grains with a mid-teen FOC. Nothing fancy about them…just plain old aluminum arrows.
in reply to: Sorry….Just a pet peeve of mine. #49989LOL
wbr,
Welcome to TBM. There is a huge wealth of information on this site that you’ll be able to use. I don’t have any real experience with carbon arrows, so I’ll leave that aspect to somebody else. However, going off the information you gave, as far as aluminum arrows go, your best bet would be to start with a 2016 or 2018 shaft. Start long and cut your shaft down about 1/4″ at a time until you get close to a good dart-like flight with a bare shaft (no feathers), then start cutting smaller increments. You can also try paper tuning, but I don’t know much about that, so I won’t touch that, either. If you start with a full-length arrow, you’ll start out with a weak spine. The objective is to shorten the shaft, thus making it stiffer the shorter it gets, until you get a good straight-shooting shaft. I wouldn’t suggest shooting much past 10 yards while you’re tuning your arrows, but that’s my personal preference. Others may have other opinions or suggestions. Best of luck, and let us know how you come out with this.
Michael.
in reply to: Hunting Arrows for 2010 #42274Steve,
Those arrows are gorgeous. You’re very good at what you do. Ever consider opening up a shop for custom wood arrow orders? Just a thought. Anyway, you said they are just over 10 grains per pound of bow weight, so I did the figures, and you’re actually just over 11 grains, which is even better, no? LOL…just the math-whiz/curious george in me. Anyway, again, awesome job on those arrows. Someday, maybe I can make some arrows that are as pretty as those. Just not set up for it at the moment, equipment-wise or money-wise.
Michael.
in reply to: Trapezoidal Limbs #37336My wife just rolls her eyes and doesn’t bother with an intelligent response…lol…but hey, the only jokes I can remember are the corney ones.
Michael
All too true, Don. Thanks for your input. It’s good to see you and your wisdom visit us from time to time. How’s the weather been over on the flat side of the state?
Michael
in reply to: EFoc and Carbon Arrows #37323Richie,
Thanks for all the information on how you manage to achieve such a high FOC. That’s very helpful. What is your preferred broadhead for your hunting? What all, and where, do you hunt? Thanks again. So much information to process and put to use.
Michael.
in reply to: arrow rest #27843Wow…that is a bummer. At least you weren’t holding the bow when it came apart. Could have been catastrophic for you. At least all you lost was the bow, and not an eye. Best of luck getting set back up. Let us know what your next bow is, and we’ll help you get rollin!!
Michael.
in reply to: wood arrows? #26607I’ve been shooting aluminums since I started, gave some carbons a shot that I got cheap, they weren’t spined right or something…I don’t know…I sold them…I have some blanks to work up that Chad Sivertsen sent me, so I’m hoping to get something worked out in the wood department, eventually. I’d like to make my own, which is why I have the blanks. I don’t know if the time it will take would make it cheaper for me in the long run, versus just ordering pre-finished shafts, but it seems like a good idea.
Michael.
in reply to: sick of the pain!!!!!! #26592Ahhh, heck, Patrick, let’s just get the battle axe out and get on with the amputation!!! HAHAHA!!!! Should we get the blade white-hot in a fire so it cauterizes as it cuts? :twisted::twisted:
And yes, it very well could be directly related to brace height, but I found when I adjusted my grip style and rolled my elbow out, I no longer had problems with my forearm missing layers of skin….lol
Michael.
in reply to: sick of the pain!!!!!! #26456I agree…less full hand “grip”, rotate your elbow on your bow arm out, more open stance, higher brace height…Best of luck. Brace height is the distance from the string to the deepest part of the grip on your bow. Most bows (I think?) are designed to be somewhere around 8″, but every bow has its sweet spot. Find this spot, and you’ll get better accuracy, less “wrist slapping”, and also a quieter shooting bow. Think of your bow as an old school marm. When you don’t do something right, she slaps your wrist with the string.
Michael.
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