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in reply to: Proper arrow length #47623
USMC,
Personally, I like to have a couple inches of arrow out in front of my riser. This helps keep the broadhead away from any stray fingers that might be sticking out. Also, before you solidify your plans on your broadhead weight, check out the Ashby Library on weight forward and penetration and broadhead lethality. There is a ton of information in there, and you might change your mind about your choice of 125’s. Good luck.
Michael.
in reply to: WHATS THE RUSH? #45545All of the advice here is solid and sound. On a lighter note, if I was to say that I had never missed a shot, you could bet your life savings that I had never taken a shot. I’ve missed lots and killed few. But that’s hunting at its best. At its worst, you get to spend all day looking for that animal that you made a bad shot on, or spend all night hoping that it doesn’t rain and you can find your animal in short order in the morning. Always be prepared for the worst, but pray for the best, and as was said above….PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!!!
Good shooting!
Michael
in reply to: arrow tuning #45531Bruce, after reviewing your draw length vs. the weight of the bow, I would suggest a lighter spined aluminum than a 2117. Either a 2016 or 2018 with a 125 grain tip would probably be a good ballpark for that bow. When I started shooting, I was shooting 2018’s with 125’s out of a 55# @ 28″, and my draw was 28 1/2″ or thereabouts. After a couple years, I found out I was not extending my bow arm properly, and therefore robbing myself of draw weight as well as accuracy. When I gained that extra inch of length, and the weight, my 2018’s no longer fit the bill, and I had to move up to the 2117’s with a 145 grain tip. Now, I could shoot a 125 grain tip, but the arrows absolutely had to be full length for those lighter tips to work. The reason I tell you this is simply because 2117’s seem to be too stiff for anything much under 60 pounds, unless you throw a huge amount of weight up front. Which brings to mind another question…what IS the weight of your tip on your 2117?? Also, you might be able to drop your nock point a touch more to get rid of your “flip” in your wood arrows. Just play with it. What kind of nock are you using? Is it fairly easily moved on your serving when you twist it? If it’s not super tight, you can twist it, and it will move up or down, much like a nut on the threads of a bolt. Just move it a few threads at a time. Good luck and let us know how things work out.
Michael.
in reply to: TRADSPACE???? #45526perhaps profiles for everybody that posts on here….i know that there are a few people i’ve searched for on there that i couldn’t find if i looked in the cracks between other people…
Michael
in reply to: "Wow, now THAT'S a VERY old bow!" #43637haha…i’ve had guys ask me if i’ve actually killed anything with mine…i tell’em…sure…i kill trees and rocks all the time…only a couple deer have managed to get in the way of my arrows…lol
Michael
in reply to: carbon vs aluminum #43613Cottonwood,
I generally shoot down at Spirit Quest, but I buy my field tips from Dennis. I haven’t shot down at Flaming Arrow except when we were looking for a bow for my wife. The one bow that they had was one of those cheaper take-downs with the white limbs…I don’t remember who the manufacturer was, but that bow, or at least one of the limbs, should never have left the factory, as it was twisted bad enough that you couldn’t keep the string in the groove. We ended up passing on that bow, and found an old Shakespeare up at the Fawn Creek shoot the following weekend for half the price of the takedown. Drop me a pm, we can visit more from there.
Michael.
in reply to: Bow quiver or not? #43599You really need to take into consideration how long your bow is, too. I recently acquired a Kodiak Magnum, and immediately realized that the Selway bow quiver on my Grizzly simply would not work well on the Mag. My arrows are 31 1/2″ long, and my nock ends are just barely within the outer limit of the limb tip on my Grizzly. Needless to say, due to the arrow length versus the short limbs, even taking into account the shorter riser of the Mag, my nocks would stick out well past my limb tip. I didn’t see that as a good combination, so I won’t be putting the bow quiver on the Mag. Luckily, I do have a back quiver that I received when an elderly friend passed away, and even though it’s a left-handed quiver, it has worked thus far for shooting 3d and carrying gobs of arrows since I have two boys that shoot with me. For hunting purposes, I will probably invest in a side quiver of some sort or another.
Michael.
in reply to: carbon vs aluminum #43568Believe me, I’m a long ways from shooting like Howard Hill, too. It would have been cool to be able to see somebody like him shoot. Him and Fred Bear both.
Yeah, I knew the old GG’s were lower quality shafts, but now they’re the same shafting as the Legacy’s and other 75’s.
Oh, and if you want your stash of carbons to dry up faster, you can always send what you have left over to me…lol.
Michael.
in reply to: arrow weight and bow speed #42916Good starting rule of thumb, from what I understand, is 10 grains per pound of bow weight (550 grain arrow for a 55 pound bow). Also, I understand that you can drop as low as 10% of the weight from that number (550 minus 10% would be 495 grains). But, heavier will definitely give you better penetration. Just make sure you know your maximum comfortable yardage with whatever arrows you choose to shoot.
Michael
in reply to: carbon vs aluminum #42912Actually, Patrick, Gamegetters are xx75 shafting. As for the difference between 75’s and 78’s…I don’t know the difference. I was just pointing out the fact that manufacturing specs on aluminum shafts are more stringent than those for carbon shafts. But you’re right…we don’t shoot well enough (most of us) to see the difference. Howard Hill, now…that might be a different story, because from what I understand, his form was perfect enough that he could tell the difference in each group of arrows that he shot, and where they would hit. Now THAT is accurate shooting. Wouldn’t it be nice to be so solid and sure of your shooting.
Michael.
in reply to: carbon vs aluminum #38946I shoot Gamegetters, and, to be honest, unless I actually hit a rock really solid, or a steel target, they seem to stay fairly straight. They may be the “cheapies” that Easton offers, but they work pretty dang good for me. Also, I want to bring up the straightness aspect. And yes, I looked this up on 3 Rivers and Cabelas. All of the carbons I looked at varied in straightness of +/- .003 to .005″, while all of the aluminum shafts I looked at were guaranteed to be +/- .001 to .002″ in straightness. My question is this…Why, if carbons are basically a synthetic material, and superior to aluminums, can’t arrow manufacturers make them perfectly straight? Or at least as straight as they can make the aluminum shafts? Just wondering. Something to think about. 😀
Michael.
in reply to: White Deer #23368I believe there have been both albino and pie-bald whitetail deer killed here in western Montana, in the past. One area actually has a fairly strong piebald gene in the herd, too. There was a 5 point (5×5 for the easterners, no offense intended) albino bull elk killed west of my home town a few years ago, as well. Was very interesting. Also, I know of two albino black bears that were killed over a 15 to 20 year period within close proximity to each other near my home town, as well. One back in the 80’s, and the other about 6 or 8 years ago. I think it would be neat to have the opportunity to harvest such a unique animal, but I would be tempted to let it walk for the exact same reason…because it IS unique.
Michael
in reply to: Screw-in Abowyer Brown Bear #11502Thanks, Patrick.
Michael
in reply to: Screw-in Abowyer Brown Bear #10925Dave,
Got a link so I can look at the El Grande’s?
Michael.
hunter1,
I shoot 60# at 29 1/2″, and both of my recurves seem to like 2117’s with 145-150 grains up front. My cut arrow is about 31 1/2″ long. My uncle shoots 64# at his length (I think he’s about 27 1/2″), and he shoots 2216’s with 145 gr. field tips and 160-170 gr. broadheads. I think the 2216’s could be a bit stiff for your bow, especially with 125 gr. tips. If you could get close to 200+ gr. up front, the 2216’s might just be the ticket for you, though. Good luck. And I know what you mean about experimenting with arrows being expensive…lol.
Michael.
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