[Ireland]

in reply to: backpack hunts #8246

tjconrads wrote: I have done a few extensive backpack hunts, one 12-days for mountain goat, and as Dave mentioned you need two types of packs. This makes the goal of getting as light as possible an intensive undertaking. Bivouac a day or two requires far less gear than an extensive hunt. This fall, I am going on a seven- to eight-day backpack hunt for elk … not the easiest hunt if success should fall my way. Basic gear includes an internal pack of around 6,000 ccs, one-man tent (mine is 3#), pad, down bag, water filter, freeze-dried food, MSR Whisperlite stove and quart fuel, wool shirt, long underwear, water bladder, cook kit, light rain gear, fleece jacket, and one set hunting clothes. In addition, I take my hunting pack, which includes camera, game bags (cheesecloth), rope, compass and maps, emergency overnight and first aid gear (drugs, sutures, gauze, scalpel, etc.), water bottle, food, 1-pound coffee can for cooking/boiling, firestarter, bow kit (string, taper tool, wax, etc), notepad and pen, knives … it all comes to under 50 pounds.

The fact is, each situation is different. On this hunt, I am sharing camp necessities with my hunting partner, so there will be no duplication. One of the most common mistakes we make is packing too much crap. I always make a thorough list, lay out all the items, rethink the area and time of year … weather concerns are important … then start cutting back on gear. Small things count, like toothpaste, lotion, fuel, clothing … every ounce here and there add up quite quickly. Finally, I pack, unpack, and repack my gear until I find the most efficient way to get it all balanced correctly.

Backpack hunting is a fine art in discipline. It takes time to get your gear right, and starting months ahead is not too early. But, like all things that take effort, the rewards … even if no game is taken … are immense.

Great information…I think everyone should read the above at least ten-times prior to packing for a hunt!!!

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Tusker Broadheads… #62470

Wildschwein wrote: Yah it was the price that led me to the Tuskers in the first place. I simply loose to damn many broadheads to shoot the expensive ones!!! If only critters would just hold still at a reasonable distance of say seven yards, then maybe I could splurge on some Ashby’s or those new Werewolves.
Glad to hear that most folks agree the quality of the Tuskers is not a concern, I was kinda worried about that at first while looking at their price tag. Should be in the mail here any day now.

Dave has given you some great advice on the Abowyer Brown Bears…They are an outstanding head that are now being produced “hunt ready sharp”. You can re-sharpen them to scary sharp again with a KME Knife Sharpener. Check them out…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: The Werewolf #59903

BlakeFischer wrote: They are coming, this photo is the first 9 in existence, and I had 25 packs that I took to Kalamazoo for the Traditional Bowhunter Expo. I was selling 6-packs there for $90. That price may change slightly, I am trying to add Teflon to the blades.

They should be readily available in April, and I will put them on the website soon.

Ireland-they are crazy sharp.

Blake

Blake,

Thanks for the information. The Werewolf will be a great addition to an outstanding line of Eclipse broadheads. Keep up the great work!

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Tradbows and Moose DVD? #59245

Wildschwein wrote: Well I couldn’t find a copy of “Lost Antlers” but “Primal Dreams” has me interested. Is there a place where a person can view a trailer of “Primal Dreams” before purchase?

Primal Dreams is a DVD that everyone should own. You will be very impressed…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: The Werewolf #58053

BlakeFischer wrote: The Werewolf-New from Eclipse Broadheads

There are three grain weights 150-Black, 175-Blue, and 200-Red.
In each grind option, double bevel, single bevel left, and single bevel right, for nine different models.

440C Stainless- 54 Rockwell
.061″ Thick Blade
Billet T6 7075 Alum. Ferrule
Stainless Steel hardware
1 3/16″ wide by 2 3/8″ long (not including the threads) These are the same dimensions as the Eclipse
Unconditional Lifetime Guarantee

Blake

Looks like an outstanding broadhead!!!!! Does it come sharpened? Cost?

Thanks,

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Rutting activity in January #57952

Duncan wrote: I don’t think it has much to do with weather. I think what you are seeing is a”late drop” fawn that has matured later than the rest of the crop and that has sent every availble buck into a last ditch rutting tizzy. Think about this. If the doe is successfully bred, her fawn will drop “late” too. That means it will develop late the next season and the cycle repeats itself, assuming it survives.

Just my 2 cents…

Duncan is correct and…any doe not bred in November will come into estrus again in December which is why it is sometimes called the “second rut” in some areas. If the doe is still not bred in December, she will often come in heat again in January.

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: carbon arrows #57936

ssumner1 wrote: Ok guys, I answered my own question when I was able to do some research. The older carbon fiber arrows that a lot of people use are roughly if I found the right information about 5X stronger than steel. In comparison, carbon nanotubes (which I find very interesting and have met the man who discovered them) are 182X stronger than steel. This is a tremendous difference. I compared the gpi for the arrows as well and noticed that they are about the same but the nanotubes have thicker walls. Easton as of right now are the only company that use this newer technology with their Axis line.

-Andrew

Easton Axis are great arrows. You might want to check out Carbon Express also…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Fixing what isn't broken #44787

M wrote: Ireland,
I enjoy shooting more than tinkering but I am n the mood to play around with this. I want to keep the bh,adapter,and insert the same so do you have any suggestions for a lighter skinnier arrow?

I’m very pleased shooting the Carbon Express Maxima 250. It is very close in spec’s to what your are presently shooting though. I’m not sure I would change arrows. I have shot the STOS and was happy with it. My wife still shoots a STOS. Give the Abowyer Brown Bear a good look along with the Grizzly El Grande. You won’t be disappointed…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Fixing what isn't broken #44631

M wrote: Deer season isn’t even over yet and I already want to start tinkering with my set up for next year. Currently I am shooting Carbon Express 250’s with a 100gr brass insert and a 260gr bh/adapter combo. Stos two blade head. I shot 3 deer so far this year and all the arrows passed through with good blood trails and the deer went less than 50 yards. This set up obviously works but would I gain anything and pick up any advantage by going with a lighter or a skinnier arrow? Any recommendations on what arrow to start with?I would like to avoid internal or external footings for now because that is all a little over my head. I would also like to stick with carbon shafts. On the other hand I sometimes think I should just keep practicing with what I have and become more expert with what I know.

You already have an outstanding set-up and really don’t need to change a thing. As was pointed out in the previous post, half the fun in archery is the tinkering. You might want to read the most recent Ashby studies and play around with the Ultra-EFOC concept. It was real fun for me and I changed my set-up as a direct result. Tinkering is what gets me through a cold winter at this time…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Shameless Plug #40687

gidaddy911 wrote: I just wanted to say that if you are in the Denver Metro area or close by, stop in at RMS Gear. Talk to Tom or one of his sons, they were great.

Back story:
I’m in the Army and in the middle of moving my family over the holidays from Columbia, SC to El Paso TX. We stopped to spend Christmas with family in Colorado (where we are originaly from). I saw an ad for them in Tradbow mag and decided to wander in.
I’m new to traditional and these guys were great! They helped me to correctly shoot my own recurve with great lessons on form and instictive shooting, and they let me shoot a bunch of longbows just for fun. It wasn’t about making the sale or making the $$$, they were passionate about Archery and glad to pass it on.
Having 5 kids of my own Archery has become something to do together and these guys have given me good info help my kids with. They will always have my business (when I got the $$ to give it to them)!

Merry Christmas Tom and Sons of Rock Mountain Specialty Gear. Thanks for the help.

You will never find a better shop and staff with more experience than at Rocky Mountain Speciality Gear (RMSG).

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Heavy broadheads #33645

Reddwarf wrote: Is anyone making good single blade glue-on broadheads in 200+ grains?

Thanks

Red Dwarf

Yes,

Check out Grizzly El Grande…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Non-chinese Wool Shirts? #31439

tucsonbowhunter wrote: I would check out some old surplus stores. I got some real nice german pants from WWII not really sure how they got here though…also penleton makes great stuff.

Woolpower Ostersund from Sweden makes great wool products.
Check them out…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Grunting 101 #28918

mittenm wrote: Mule deer make a very long (sometimes over a minute) higher pitch tending grunt compared to whitetail deer and are not nearly as responsive to calling.

As far as whitetails and grunting, bucks grunt a lot during the rut while they are in search of does and after they have found one I heat. So, yes I have called in bucks using a grunt tube, but it seams to work best for me during the pre rut or late November after the peak rut is over and things are winding down. Like most calling timing is everything. We as bowhunters try to be very stealthy so it kind of goes against my grain to call and in some cases let animals know of my “hiding place.” So right up front I use all calling sparingly.

One of the most overlooked techniques is the wheeze-call. A warning call made by bucks who are tending a hot doe and what to proclaim there dominance. Well, this call will usually cause young bucks to back off or at least approach very cautiously, but it could trigger a very aggressive reaction in mature bucks who just can’t believe another buck is bigger than him. They may come right in toward you very recklessly and off a shot.

Rattling works best for me during the late season after the main rut. Again I’m looking to take a mature deer, but if any buck will do, then rattling is a longer range technique that will get a response from many younger bucks during the rut who just can’t seem to locate a lone hot doe. During the peak rut there are many does coming in heat and mature bucks will usually pick one up during their night-time prowl and will be less apt to investigate the rattling during the day. Why fight when you already have what you need. However, during the late season (in my area late December and Jan) solitary does come in heat and the young first-year fawns. This creates much more competition and rattling works better for me. I tie 4 sheds together and one haul line to my tree stand, thereby the rattling sound comes from the ground and also sounds more real as sticks and leaves are rustled. This method also leaves your bow hand free to hang to your bow with nocked arrow at ready.

Doe and fawn bleats work best for me during Sept. or very late season again as bucks come to investigate. Late-season bleats brings in bucks looking for hot doe fawns.
Calling is kind of a timing thing. Its hard to learn unless you do more of it, but do to much and you risk educating your local deer heard. Whether cautious from predators (man) or trying to get down wind to find the doe that the other bucks are fighting over, mature bucks usually circle me before coming in. I just try to coax them in quickly before they cut my downwind. Just remember grunting, or any calling, puts deer on alert for predators or other deer, just hope they don’t find you in your tree or ground blind instead. Ha! Have fun with it. Mike

Outstanding overview Mike!!!! One thing that I add to the above calling is the use of a decoy. I have been using one since 1991 with great success…

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Broadheads #24636

longbow4 wrote: Does anyone have advise for a new traditional bowhunter ?
Are the simple 2 blade broagheads (zwickey, magnus)as effective for deer or would the bleeder blade type be better.

Thanks

Lots of great heads to chose from and most have been mentioned. Read the Dr. Ashby studies to assist with your decision. I have personally used numerous two, three, and four blade heads since 1972 and have settled on two heads for my personal use: The Abowyer Brown Bear and the Grizzly El Grande. Both great heads!

Ireland

[Ireland]

in reply to: Appropriate discussion? #24536

J.Wesbrock wrote: [quote=Dr. Ed Ashby]From the photos ‘King’ posted it looks like there are some folks shooting arrow setups with which they should also avoid even slightly quartering away shots; which brings us right back to the capabilities of the individual AND the equipment he/she chooses to hunt with dictating what shot angles are acceptable.

Ed

No doubt about that. But playing devil’s advocate for a moment, wasn’t there a thread here recently about a gentleman who shot a slightly quartering-away whitetail with a heavy EFOC arrow tipped with a narrow single-bevel head who hit it in the ribs, didn’t get good penetration and lost his deer?

You asked some good questions of me earlier, which I will answer when I can. Typing long responses on a Blackberry isn’t my strong suit.

Not sure it is the same post, by the deer discussed in “Broadhead Sharpness and Bloodtrails” was recovered after “running” 10 yards. It was shot with an Ashby inspired set-up.

Ireland

[Author]

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