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in reply to: Holmegaard #17376
Im in doubt here…I dont wanna hijack Davids thread, but I also dont think my bow deserves a thread of its own, so ill continue in this one (bear with me David….or feel free to tell me to turn it down a notch;-)
I have narrowed the distal 35 cm of the limbs in order to make it more Holmegård’ish. Its now down to a more manageable 70#…but it does not stack anymore (im pulling 31 inches and the bow is 67,7 inches). Its not as smooth pulling as my recurve…but I like it alot. Im a bit surprised that it has no handshock at all:-)
Narrowing the distal parts of the limbs seems to have upped the speed (I have no way to confirm this since more variables have changed).
Ill post more pics soon.
Ps: I definatly wanna make a true Holmegård replica soon
cheers
in reply to: Avatar (The Movie) and Longbows #15135No doubt the movie would have worked as well..if not better with more (much more) subtle political/social messages.
I didnt find it as anti-american as some claim it to be (im not blind tho….I know they don refer to the “Royal Marines” when they say “Marines”:-(
Im exited by other aspects of the movie…like the notion that the bow as a weapon should be invented independantly twice (on their and our world). Which makes me wonder how many times it has been invented (if more than once) on earth?
Cheers
in reply to: Holmegaard #14464Ok…its not an exact replica, more an inspired interpretation;-). But here is my bow as it looks at this stage of development:
Its elm and made of a machined elm blank…with cut-off glued on for more thickness in the handle. Its 172 cm long (sorry about the metric) and 4.7 cm at the widest part, just above the handle.
And here it is in the tiller
It pulls about 80 pounds…which I will reduce to about 50-60. It does stack at about 30#, but I hope that effect will be reduced once I reduce the limb thickness more. Its fast, but seems to prefer heavy arrows 700 grains or more!
Ill give post more details when im done.
Cheers
in reply to: For those of you that hunt with wood arrows #12966My god those are beatiful arrows…makes me wanna make woodies again!
How long does it take you make one of those?
Cheers
in reply to: Avatar (The Movie) and Longbows #12200Just saw the movie and must say it impressiv to say the least:-)
But…man I was disappointed to see feathers on the arrows (or what looked exactly like feathers…barred and all)…..especially since our heroes training set had what looked like semi-transparent scales.
They had gone to great lenghts to make the fauna and flora different from earths, they even made all the expected analogies….but birds did not seem to be part of it (and why would they?).
Judgeing by the arrowheads however the Narvi (is that how it is spelled?) seems to have discovered the usefullness EFOC independantly from us;-)
Cheers
(yeah I know…the Narvi was too human looking too…but the movi would not work otherwise;-)in reply to: 3Rivers Archery Catalog: FOC Recommendation #10497Im sorry that I was part of the multiblade derail….please forgive me:-(
Back to topic: Is there anyway that I can see the chart, or the catalog online? (ordering the catalog is not an option for me im afraid)
Cheers
in reply to: 3Rivers Archery Catalog: FOC Recommendation #9742Greatreearcher wrote: I wouldnt underestimate the power of a 3 blade broadhead. If you put a sharp instrument on the tip of a arrow and put it where it needs to go, it will do just fine! Dr Ashbys reports are not really downing 3 blades over 2 blades, his reports are just saying that for the maximum penetration a 2 blade is best. Look at what success others have had, Fred Eichler has been using the Muzzy phantom for a while, and that is a 4 blade(2 blade with big bleeders). I think that even if most guys would get close to 10% FOC they would be optimal. I think 19% is just more optimal. Compared to my own shooting system, I only have about 8% FOC. Anyway that is just how I look at it.
I agree on your main point (that multiblades work)…but as I read the Natal report I do get the feeling that Ashby “downs” multiblades…he has 50-64% of the heades damaged or destroyed as opposed to 15% for single blades.
Sorry…didnt mean to derail the thread.
in reply to: This one really takes the cake! #63590Greatreearcher wrote: Clay, you have to let us know what they say:D. I forgot about market hunting! Then that proves my self theory definatly correct. There are just some situations where nothing you have done is “wrong” and the animal busts you. But we have done something wrong, we have hunted the way we were taught, the way the teacher was taught, so it is basically the same techniques. I wonder if we go against what we were taught how we would do??? Obviously we couldnt go marching through the woods making noise?! That wouldnt work, but somehow hunt differently and I bet we could put he hurt on them?!
hehe….problem is: Hunting any other way wont satisfy us! People have found ways to circumvent hunting traditions…like shooting from vehicles (that deer under normal conditions dont find threatening)! In populated areas i bet that a person jogging, in highly visible sweatgear can get closer to game than a camo dressed hunter…its all about what is percived as posing a threat.
But that wont keep me from hunting like my forefathers…because it feels right! Isnt that the whole point of bow hunting, and in particular tradbow hunting…choosing a less effectiv method (relativ to using a gun) because it feels right?
Cheers
in reply to: This one really takes the cake! #62873Electric output from muscle contractions are widely used by a range of animals. Platypus, rays and paddlefish use it for locating prey at range….electric “eels” for stunning/killing prey.
They all have fine tuned (and well documented) sensory systems that are cabable of handling weak electric impulses.
To claim that deer have a sensory system cabable of detecting even weaker signals (water is a far better medium for propagation of electric signal than air) will have to be backed up by MUCH better documentation than that presented in the site!
Actually…I dont see any serious documentation at all, which arouse my suspicion to say the least;-)
Cheers
dabersold wrote: All else being equal
Seems to be the key word here….if al else is equal, then yes, the faster arrow would have to be stiffer to achive the flight characteristics of the “softer” spined arrow.
You do ofc have the option to turn other “buttons” to achive the same effect: arrow weight, point weight, plunger depth comes to mind, most likely many more variables will do too….but that was not really the question;-)
Cheers
in reply to: Holmegaard #62584snuffornot wrote: Wonder what type of tree they used in the link? I love the dark finish on the handle and limb tips. Looks burned. Makes me want to build one too.
Im sorry to disapoint you, but it is wood stain…two colours were used – orange and dark brown to give that effect. The wood is, as in the wast majority of danish mesolitihic bows Elm (which in it self is whitish to light red/brown).
That Elm was used seems to be significant, since it was rather rare at the time (compared to ash, oak and birch….dont think yew bows have been found at all).
Elm is a rare tree in Denmark (once again…mind you it wasnt 20 yrs ago). Im happy to say that im fortunate enough to have 4 Elm blanks, with superb grain structure (but own dried:() lying around. They wont make Holmegaard bows tho (spelled “Holmegård”) since the “barkside” is not preserved.
Cheers
in reply to: Holmegaard #61592Comming from denmark (actually born about 10 km from were the original Holmegaard bow was found) im ofc familar with the bow type and might be able to help you!
The following link is from a danish site for traditional archers (hope it works):
http://www.bueogpil.dk/index.php?name=Sections&req=viewarticle&artid=9&allpages=1&theme=PrinterAll the text is in danish ofc….ill translate on request!
I suggest you go for the second bow blueprint (thats a 50# bow with a draw of 72 cm – 28,3 in). The topmost blueprint is from the original bow (50# @25,6 in). All measurements are metric, but i doubt that will pose a problem;-)
I have made several, but having a draw of 31 inches I have had to stray from the dimensions – well, my bows were more like freely based on the design. Providing you can get suitable elm (Ulmus glabra) its a forgiving design – well, flatbows are in general.
Hope this is of use to you.
Cheers
in reply to: When and why do you replace your glove? #58828I shoot a homemade, three finger glove….before that I used a homemade tab. I have never used anything else, but reading thru this thread I get the notion that gloves with nylon inserts work well!
So…thanks to this thread im now looking for a “real” glove, with inserts and all…maybe my shooting will even improve:-)
Cheers
in reply to: The Line In The Sand: Traditional Equipment #58800Any setup that dont involve a trigger/release, cams and sights feels traditional to me.
This is highly subjectiv since my mind wanna put anything made of carbon, glassfiber, plastic, 2 component glue, kevlar and dacron in the same catagory.
However…shooting carbon arrow from my “modern” recurve gives me that “traditional” feel, so ill go with the above mentioned “definition”:-)
But, I enjoy shooting with my compound once in a while, hell, I love shooting with anything from a slingshot to a modern centerfire with glass! And I wish, really wish, that “traditionalists” and “modernists” (for lack of a better word) would stop bashing each other and start finding common ground….we do, after all, have so much in common.
well….enough “lets all hold hands” from me;-)
Cheers
in reply to: String jumping and ducking? #53236I must concure with Steve….not that I have much experience with the problem (still training for that cruel danish bow license).
We have a no-nonsense rule in DK thats forbids bow-shots at deer that “marks” (when they look up and stare in your direction)…so no “bleat” shots allowed!….shoting when they are unaware and relaxed seems sensible to me.
Cheers
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