[Hiram]

in reply to: ABOUT PBS #26704

Honored by your presence Fred!! Never have met you or Don but would like to someday!!!!!:D

[Hiram]

in reply to: Arrow Plate Adjustment #23531

Something I posted on another forum……….

Here is why>>———-> The horizontal position of the arrow at the riser strike plate determines the position of the arrow as it is released.

The horizontal position being adjusted so the arrow point is just outside the string,, starts the arrow in the right rotation everytime even if the shooter has a release that is NOT consistent from shot to shot. Centershot arrows with a mechanical release doe’s not inflict the same paradox reaction as a finger release. When the fingers release the string the arrow is pushed sideways by the fingers interference with the tail end of the arrow.

This distorts the linear path of the arrow to alarger degree than a release!!

Shooting centershot adjusted arrows with a finger release does not insure that the correct rotation will happen for each shot.

Starting the path of the arrow a tad outward of centershot blends in forgiveness and consisitency with each shot.

Correct rotation for a R/H is shooter is clockwise,,,counter for a lefty.

Correct rotation also (if your spine is correct) insures the proper S path to clear your rest when the arrow goes by it.

Knowing that moving the arrow outward weakens the arrow because the linear path is not centershot with the string gives the shooter a little fine tuning to move the arrow in or out to get within the “Tweaking” of the arrow to get it just right for your set-up.

Moveing the arrow to centershot weakens the arrow because the linear path is perfectly horizontal with the string,, making the force of the string and the presurre it exerts on the rear of the arrow have more Dynamic force. This may cause the arrow to start out wrong or right depending on the quality of the release from shot to shot.

When the arrow is moved outward, the dynamic force is diminished because the linear path of dynamic force on the rear of the arrow is diverted by the offset direction of the arrow as it leaves the bow.

That is all that a cushion plunger really doe’s is let the arrow bend more or less spring tension enableing the shooter to tweak his set-up for the perfect spine in his rig (Bow).

The shelf rest has the same basic mechanics for adjustment as a cushion plunger but is not as precise because it has no cushion effect like the plunger spring.

The strike plates (verticle piece of leather on the riser) horizontal position can do the basically the same thing if moved inward or outward.

THAT is why the horizontal position is so important.

See Vans method of tuning a plunger!!! He starts out on a stiff spring and set at centershot. He does this to see if the arrow he is shooting is within the perimeters he wants in spine to begin with.

You must start with the approximate correct spine!

Start full length,,,shoot the tip weight you plan on using,, and shorten the arrow until you get to tune?

If you want to shoot a longer arrow to meet your gap measurement at certain yardage??? Start out with a little weaker arrow and tune/cut till you get your desired length.

If you found the arrow was too weak at your desired length and tip weight??

Start out with a size stiffer and cut/tune till you get your desired length.

In this process,,,you may tweak your strike plate/plunger till you arrive at tune.

Why do all this???? For a hunter who shoots feathers on an arrow,,,,,a shaft that shoots reletively straight at 20 yards with no fletching will shoot an arrow with wet feathers stillllllllllllllllll,,,,,,,,,,,,pretty good! Lots of good tuning posts in the classics section. I always start out with a bare shaft and adjust the vertical first (nock height) and then go to the horizontal. I start out with the Bow at the lowest brace height and work up until the Bow seems to be the most quiet and vibration free height. You can raise the brace height a tad to move the bending (nodes) further apart and weaken the arrow if you wish later on when your teaking things. I start a little higher on vertical than my known nock height, which is usually 1/2 above 90 for off the shelf set-ups.

Tuning your Bow also gets the arrow striking exactly where your looking!! That is veryyyyyyyyyyyy important!!!

[Hiram]

in reply to: CO Elk Help Needed #20442

Depends on the design and performance of your Bow! I have killed several Elk and have never used more than 58 pounds at my draw weight. Some Longbows and Recurves are capable of exceding other Bows in performance. I only hunt with ILF risers and limbs with FF strings and always stay with the 10 grains of arrow weight for each pound of draw weight at the minimum. I usually exceed this weight which in my opinion is too lite for large Game. I see Elk as large game, so use as much weight as I can compfortably draw and hold with repeatable good form and in different postures of shooting. All the Elk I have killed has been from the kneeling position! NO!! wAS not PRAYING at the time but it always helps! lol I think the most important aspect of killing with an arrow is preparation and shot placement. The last Elk I killed was from a Black Bear ILF riser and a set of Winex limbs set at 44 pounds at my 28 inch draw weight. I was using a 550 grain Max 4 Beeman and a Magnes two blade 165 grain broadhead. Shot was 18 yards and the angle was good quartering away. This Bow shot these arrows through the Chrono at 168 fps. I did NOT get a pass through! The Elk piled up within 75 yards. DO I reccomend this? No! I had a shoulder injury at the time and was shooting enough to know the 18 yard shot was a chipper for me. This year I will be shooting the same rig set at 51 pounds. 😀

[Hiram]

in reply to: ABOUT PBS #18284

A good place to be!!!:D

[Hiram]

in reply to: When you can not find it you make it… #12552

Troy Breeding wrote: Hiram,

This was the first bow I’ve tried this design on. I’ve compared limb designs form several different bows and foundthat the ones with the deeper hook design seem to have better cast. So I decided to give it a try.

So far I’m happy with everything. Hopefully today will be one of those days I can find out exactly what shaft setup shoots best.

Troy

Yessir! Less stack and more torsional stability,,especially if they do not unfold a lot at FD. Look at some of Borders deep hook limbs at FD,, you will see that they a re little static which contributes to less stack and more torsional stability.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: long bow #63233

Iffffffffffff? I were to shoot a Longbow?? Would be a Wesley Special or Big 5 from Howard Hill archery. I shot one last year (big 5) 50@28,, 52 or so at my 29 and found that all the horror stories of handshock and stacking was not true at all! I think the Howard Hill archery Bows are well made and may well be superior in design etc. than other straight D Bows? I had also had preconceptions that I would prefer a locater type grip but found the dished grip very comfortable to shoot. It did not stack,,,did have some shock but as You would expect, I shott it with the heel of my down on the grip and with just a little grip pressure, not much. A class act Bow at 68 inches and very tempting for me, a recurve shooter to someday own one of these jewels!!:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: When you can not find it you make it… #63211

Deep hook recurves are nice!I also like the long curves a little static which keeps them stacking at longer draws. I can tell you understand Bow geo really good Troy! The deep hooks make for stability.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Arrow rest replacement question. #63209

The two inch wide Velcro ata walmart for 6-8 bucks. I cut the fuzzy to match whatever I need. Dave’s advice for the match is a good one! Get’s the arrow up off the flat surface,,Paradox clearance.

[Hiram]

in reply to: CO Elk Help Needed #63205

Try to get there 2-3 days early and camp at the altitude you’ll be hunting to acclimate. Take some Zyrtec and have Carmex on hand. Water pump purifier too.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Accuracy Questions #49037

As Jason pointed out,, “Consistency” is the reall issue over accuracy. If I had to pick?? I would want straight arrows of course!! Unless the Bow is mounted into a shooting machine and shot for accuracy??? “Acuracy” is only reletive to the goal!! Most Bows will shoot bullet holes out of a machine at close range,,,even with a little weight variance.

But,,,,,,No question is ever regarded as NOT important,,because in asking,, others may learn!:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Thanks, Dave! #47925

Dave’s the real thing! Will miss your presence as mod here.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tips from the old timer #46717

I always have gone to his column FIRST!!!! everytime. 😀

[Hiram]

in reply to: ATVs on public lands #44355

Used to see Elk and hunt them with success until the 4 wheelers showed up several years ago. They run the Elk deeper, ruin the hunting and run on trails not intended and do it with disregard to the law. There is NO place for a 4 wheeler on public land in areas they are banned from!!! They do it anyway,, along with increasing numbers of road hunters,,,aka “Slobs” that shoot from the road and ruin things for those who like to hunt them fair chase. I own a 4 wheeler and keep it for work,,,hauling rocks and wood on my own place. Deer watch me as I pass them and do not spook because they know they are safe. There are use’s for for ATV’s but NOT on public land!:evil:

[Hiram]

in reply to: Aiming Methods #44338

Good stuff on Gapping from a great fella!http://youtu.be/U2UzVydQmHseat

[Hiram]

in reply to: Aiming Methods #41072

J.Wesbrock wrote: [quote=paleoman]I’m sure this subject has been beat to tar…but how many of you consciously use a “method” and how many don’t think about it. I’m finally getting back to the “kid” way of shooting – I just point the arrow where I want it to go with a little up or down for elevation and there it goes. Seems the more I have to think about it the worse it is.

Over the past nearly 30 years I’ve shot pretty much every barebow method there is — instinctive, gap, point of aim, string walking, etc. Each have their advantages and disadvantages. For the vast majority of my shooting, I settled on a gap method many years ago. But when the situation calls for it, I’ll switch to one of the other methods without a problem.

Yes! Me too Jason!! Good explaination from a seasoned veteran! Many varibles exist in the field.:D

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