[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #56555

With this explanation you can see that all the rangefinders and gadgets that some use are for the ranges unknown further than the vision capabilty of the eye to see how the hair is laying on the animal. Yes a very close range thing (Bowhunting)that is actually enhanced by the use of a good one string Bow. Ha, yes a little subjectivity but from my experience very true. The static spine of the arrow or how it bends with a weight in the middle of the arrow when laying horizontal from two points will give a measurement to predict the static spine of an arrow. This is how the initial measurement is taken from a basic starting point to tell us how the arrow will perform from a general perspective. The Dynamic spine will be the actual performance understanding of the arrow from having shot it and examined how it is flying whether left or right or up and down when it strikes the target. This process is called Bareshafting the arrow to check the amount of bending while leaving the Bow and reading this by how it strikes the target. The force of the stored energy in the Bow limbs when drawn by the Archer and transferred to the arrow by the string through the nock of the arrow upon release dictates how stiff or weak the arrow reacted to the force of the shot to the arrow. The arrow will need to bend more during Archers Paradox (the effect of the arrow bending while passing by the fingers) if the amount of center shot is further from the center of the arrow rest outward (away from the Bows center point of the riser)when shot.Ok, what I mean is the more your rest is adjusted or built out from the riser, the weaker the spine of the arrow will be needed to pass cleanly by and not deflect off the riser. Several reasons but simply put that if it does not bend enough and is too stiff, it will not bend and will deflect off the riser. This is why centershot Bows will shoot a stiffer arrow pretty good. So, if your arrow is slightly weak, you can move it away from the Bow a little and strengthen the spine. Too stiff, you can move it towards the riser and cause it to weaken a little. Why? well because the more inline with the string the entire arrow is from left to right, more force is imparted along the entire column of the arrow. Move it out, stengthen, Move it in weaken.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #56544

The arrow is the projectile cast from the Bow. Simple statement that everyone can understand but as most who have a little basic understanding of tuning we know it is more than that. Yes the arrow SHOULD be the correct one for the Bow it was shot from enhance the accuracy potential of the Archers ability to hit the mark that is relative to his expectancy. My expectancy is to milk all the performance capability I can from the arrow for my purpose which is to hunt and kill game. The size of my target changes from the size of the animal I am shooting at from the size of the area I can see to the anatomical size of the kill zone. Yes what I can see limits my range from that of shooting at a the silouette of the animal to the actual tuffs of hair in the area that contains the vital organs(kill zone)that I must pierce and cut from the outside inward with a sharp broadhead.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Target Panic #56491

Yes Jason the clicker is a good fix which can be weaned off of gradually for some. I still have to keep this TP thing at bay by incorporating into my shooting the close up bale work thing every time I have a shooting session. I start my shooting with it and end it with the same draw and hold, let down practice. The Bale should be a part of your habits towards advancing in your shooting. If you have one “poor habit” that you want to eliminate, do it on the Bale and ingrain it without any pressure to concentrate on aiming. The reason for this is so the shot becomes so ingrained that all you have to focus on is aiming while shooting. The bale will make your shot sequence ingrain in your sub-conscious to the point that you can drive the car and talk and listen to radio etc. LOL. I think TP is like a reformed smoker or alcoholic who may have stopped but, has to take the steps to stay free of the habitual behaviours and “bad company” that lets the habit creep back in. In other words, you can stop but it takes maintenance to keep it at bay!:roll:

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #56480

Konrad, you should contribute these sections you mention. Participation is what we need in this thread. All subject matter is hard to cover by one guy. I could be wrong on something and desire input from others. Get in here and get your hands dirty and help others who need the knowlege passed on. Start Posting!:D

[Hiram]

in reply to: Target Panic #56163

Been there, done that, starred in the movie, and got the T-shirt.
Get close to the target and draw to anchor, hold two seconds and let down.
When you are holding relax and make a figure eight on the target.
Train your mind that you can draw, hold, and let down without shooting.
You do not have to shoot!
Stay with this for a couple weeks and only let the shot go every third or forth time.
Use this time to work on your form.
Do not shoot past seven yards for a couple weeks.:)
Fear of missing? I don’t know but, It creeps in on you.

[Hiram]

in reply to: God's Dog… #56071

I do not like dry land trap sets. That is just my own personal deal with the animal. I used to trap as a kid to buy my school clothes and gas to get to my girlfriends house. I always trapped the river for Coons in a canoe and used Drown sets only. I like to end it quick for the animal, Death that is. Dry land sets keep them there trapped by the damaged leg and seems a little out of sinc for my reverent world of things in the woods. The “woods karma” thing you might say. Kill em quickly and cleanly! Then listen to the Turkeys fly up to roast in the evening. I know Owls kill a few but the Owl is a Messenger and is also protected. Management is what has brought the Whitetail back, and management is what is needed in my area on Coyotes. Bobcats are not as numerous in my area as Yotes, so I can pass on one if I am not in the mood which is seldom. Each to their own on this one. I am not passionate about this subject. I am subjectively involved with preserving the Turkey populas so I can hear them Gobble in the spring and Kee-kee in the fall. Yelp:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #56059

Thanks guys, will get to the arrow in a little while.:)

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #55295

Anybody here?:)Am I wasting my time?

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #54466

I will get to the arrow a little further down the road but for now a little on the type of finger protection from the string when shooting a Bow. Again three types exist and all used in Trad gear today. The glove is widely used and comes in variuos forms of design. The basic configuration is that which covers the three fingers which draw the bow string and is secured to the hand by a wrist strap. The materials are usually constructed of leather which may be Cordovan or other slicker leathers which help let the string slip away with out as much friction on the bow string giving a smoother release and reducing string oscillations generated by the release. The second kind is called a Tab or mitt which usually is secured by a string or leather material to the middle finger of the drawing hand. They are made in variuos shapes and sizes like the gloves I mentioned earlier and usually just cover the fingers on the string side. Some prefer these over gloves for the “extra feel” they get from having the finger tips bare enabling a finger touch to the side of the face. They are also reputed to give a better release and are the predominate release aid used by Olympic archers. If I were starting out again the Tab would be a “Best reccomendation” from me for the beginner. The third of course is the Mechanical release which is mainly utilized by Compound shooters today but it variants go back hundreds of years to the “Thumb ring” which many still use today. Finger releases are the norm though and would be my first choice for Trad Bows. Unless of course you mash or cut your fingers to the extent you could not draw your Bow and was faced with needing to use a mechanical release. I have practiced with one “just in case” but usually detest it and prefer my fingers for the better control and anchor point consistancy. TBC.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #54443

The string. Yes is of major consideration in the tuning process due its ability to bend the limbs and impart the energy which is stored in the limbs to the arrow. String material comes in many materials which are available either to the the individual which makes his own or to the manus of strings. I will not get into the variuos material compositions other than the basic names of the materials and how it relates to what the archer needs to know in a basic description of the string materials, The first type of string material may be of a vegetable substance weaved from plants such as linen or animal parts. Even Squirell hides were used by Native Americans etc. The second kind is Dacron which is a fairly modern string material still widely used today and very popular up until the early 90s or so. The third kind id Fast flight or non-stretch which may not stretch or give any at all when the Bow is shot. FF is easily the most popular modern bow string used today and Bow makers are beefing up the limbs and tips to accomadate the stress that it may impart to the limbs as the bow is shot. A few feet per second is gained by FF material and will effectively weaken an arrow over Dacron string material which has some stretch when shot. Many still prefer Dacron over FF material and use it with success even on Bows designed to handle FF materials. Dacron does also have the tendency to be a little more quiet than FF when shot under hunting encounters at close range where a more silent ‘SHOT” can be a factor in the animals reaction. Some names of FF materials are 450 plus, 8125, 452, and TS-1 just to name a few with D-97 being a very much used FF material on Traditional Bows today. TBC

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #54428

OK the rest (arrow rest) is the resting point of the arrow on the Bow, The front portion that is of the arrow.There are several rest types and many different variants of the rest being manued for Trad Bows. I will stay with three basic descriptions for our tuning one strings purpose. The shelf rest is simply a bit of material on a shelf of the riser for the arrow to rest on. This may be leather or hide with animal hair or simply nothing but the shelf itself. This type of rest is the most basic and also the most reliable. I would recomend that the focul point of the arrow resting point on a shelf rest be raised slightly and just over the throat of the grip. Why? well if a simple match stick under some leather is used or its approximate you will have the balance point both horizontal and vertically balanced. The slight rise in the shelf will also eliminate too much contact with the arrow as it is released and the balance point of the grip will be a little more forgiving by having the rest focal point just above the throat and help eliminate (hand torque) torque pressures on the bow by the hand. The second kind is the elevated rest which comes in many forms from stick on to bolt on type rests. The third kind is just no rest on the Bow but off the knuckle of the Bow hand for those Bows which do not utilize a shelf built into the Bow. This is usually on a more primitive type Bow or self Bow which is all natural wood (One tree) and is not laminated but may have the back supported by rawhide or the variuos other backing material to strenthen the Bow. The elevated rests may be the flipper type rests or just a stick on plastic or hair, feather rest which simply uses a protrusion for the arrow to rest on above the shelf. TBC

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #54384

OK I will get to the rest in a little while but first lets talk about grip and how it effects the nocking point. The centerpoint of the Bow (Middle) may dictate what you can get by with on the amount of pressure you exert on the Bow. Recurves usually have the center located around the deepest part of the grip (throat) and need to have most of the rearward pressure balanced on the web of the hand (bowhand) as you draw the Bow and shoot it. Some longbows will have the center a little lower in the grip area which allows a lower or (low wrist) grip on the bow. If you place your hand on the bow handle and draw the Bow, you can rotate the wrist upward or downward and exert more or less force on the top or bottom limb. Too much on the bottom, high arrow and in the reverse by forceing the wrist downward (rotating forward) a low arrow. I would recomend that whatever system you decide on whether high grip or low, that you let the most rearward pressure be exerted on the web area of your hand. This will help balance the bow and retard a little of the handshock (recoil of the bow after the shot) and make consistancy a little easier. To be cont.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #54363

Tiller is the amount of distance the limbs are from the top of the riser or fade outs, or the equal distances measured at two equal points on the top limb and the bottom limb from the position of the string. The Bow must be strung of course LOL. Tiller just represents the balance the top and bottom limbs have in relationship with each other. I usually just use an arrow and stick the point inward at the top of the riser and stick my thumb nail in the center of the bowstring were it is even with the center of the arrow. I then careful not to move my thumb, check it with the bottom limb. If it is further away or longer on the top limb than the bottom we have a positive tiller. If both are equal distance, then we have even tiller. Lower limb distance longer than the top, we have negative tiller. To be cont.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #54343

Nock height and how it effects tuning. I mentioned in the process by progression that we had installed a nock on the string or “Nocking point”. The location of the nocking point is a major part of the process of correct flight. Variables include several things like how you grasp the string with your fingers. The split finger usually need a positive tiller built into their Bow. The three under guys usually benefit from a even tillered Bow. First split finger is the index above the nocking point, and three under is all three under. Positive tiller is the top limb weaker than the bottom to compensate for the index exerting more pressure on the top limb. Three under usually creates a closer balance in the balance of both limbs. Rarely would an archer need negative tiller. So you can see that the nocking point has some impact on the balance of the Bow (LIMBS) as it pushes the arrow forward. That is all it is, Balancing the up and down force equally upon the arrow as the bow is shot. Too much pressure on top, Bare shaft nock high. Too much on Bottom, bare shaft nock low. So you can see how nocking point correlates with the balance and tillerof tuning. To be cont.

[Hiram]

in reply to: Tuning #54327

A few thoughts on Brace heighth. The brace height may be changed during the tuning process to achieve several things. The Power stroke of the Bow can be made shorter or longer by either raising or lowering the height respectively. The initial height will be determined by how you install the proper string length on your Bow. Assuming AMO standards the string should be correct for the length of the Bow. Lets say it is a 62 inch recurve and you install a 58 inch string. You may be too short and notice the brace is higher than it should be by looking at the tracks in the recurve ends on the belly side.You may have to use a string which is 59 inchs to give you the proper spanse of adjustment needed to either twist the string to raise the brace height or untwist to lower it. Custom Bows may have a string length which is not AMO standard. Back to Power stroke. The lower the height the longer the arrow is on the string and the higher the less time the arrow is on the string when the shot is made and the arrow releases from the string. Longer time on the string means you have a longer power stroke. Same thing with Ford vs. Chevy LOL. So to achieve the brace height and get the Bow close, we have established that you twist to raise and de-twist to lower. The lower the brace the more stroke, which translates into more power, which translates into making the arrow weaker. To be continued.

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