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in reply to: Does any one use true traditional Equipment #44887
ToddRvs wrote: [quote=ToddRvs]I just consider traditional archery, what you call primitive. By that I mean no aluminum arrows, mass produced broadheads, or compound bows.
It is interesting what we all consider to be “traditional” equipment. The term “traditional” as it applies to archery is pretty new. It was coined by compound shooters because they didn’t know what to call conventional archery equipment in shoot classes and such. We just picked it up from them. Primitive is traditional, but traditional isn’t primitive.
Rick
in reply to: Where do you get your wood arrows from #44876I make my own. Over the years I have used several different shaft materials, but now use Douglas Fir from Surewood and Sitka Spruce from Hildebrand. Check my website for some pictures. Feel free to ask questions.
Rick
in reply to: Where do you get your tradional supplies from #40274Tim Harms at Braveheart Archery is great and has good prices and about the best shipping charges around. Lost Nation and Kustom King and 3RA are good as well.
KK does quite a bit of business in Europe, and most any of us will ship to there. Credit cards and PayPal really make it easy to deal with the currency differences.
in reply to: Recurve or longbow your choice and why? #40260I have them all, but but shoot longbows the most by far. I just like them.
in reply to: cheap feathers? #22831Kustom King is a little cheaper than 3RA. The Sagitarius/AMG/etc are cheaper, but I much prefer the American made TrueFlights. I can make you a pretty good deal on some TF 5.5″ shields.
Rick
in reply to: A Question of Draw Weight #20547I wish I could still shoot 60 comfortably as I really liked the way it performed, but I’m doing just fine in the low/mid 50’s now.
in reply to: Saying Hello #20544Welcome to camp, Jim! 😀
in reply to: Scent from walking through areas #20540I’ve had deer follow my path and have seen them turn inside out when hitting my trail. When in the whitetail woods, I wear high top rubber boots and can walk quite a ways without discomfort. Beans shoes/boots are a favorite for stalking.
in reply to: Getting into woods…What do I need? #19427Many of the chundoo shafts were burninshed, which slightly compresses the outside of the shaft, making it harder for the stains to penetrate. If your shafts had a slick, shiney finish, this is probably the case. The alcohol base dyes will penetrate much better, but don’t show the wood’s grain like a stain will. The oil base stains and Minwax Poly are very good for arrows. Chundoo, also known as Lodgepole Pine, makes very good arrows.
Lam birch can be challenging to straighten and can have 2 or 3 bends. Work one bend at a time. Heat can be a big help. Get it about as hot as you can stand to handle, push it a little past straight and hold it for a bit while the shaft cools some. Keep working it and checking the straightness. Stand the shaft upright to let it cool evenly. Repeat as necessary. Heat also can help hook straightening.
Don’t forget to have fun!
in reply to: whats everyone favorite BOW ? #17243I have a couple, a Robertson Purist LB and a Great Northern Critter Gitter. Both are 62″, the Purist is 55 lb and the CG is 50.
in reply to: Grizzly & El Grande: Weights & Dimensions #17229Thickness of the steel. The length and width dimemsions are the same.
in reply to: 2 Blade double bevel and 3 blade vs single bevel #150692blade wrote: When shooting right wing, if I don’t go in I sometimes get cut by the feather.
That is why I recommend left wing for right hand shooters and vice versa. You’re correct tho, both will work. Rick
in reply to: ID/Value help on Bear Grizzly #12724Zebra wood and brown glass, right? Kinda pointy riser at the shelf. 64-67 Grizzly was one of Bear’s best bows, IMO. Take care of it, but take it for a walk once in a while, too. I have a ’67 and I’m gonna hunt it.
in reply to: Broadhead Swap #12720I think I have a few extra Serpentines; let me check.
in reply to: Getting into woods…What do I need? #12714A saw is a pretty good idea, but you can do well with less than a high speed machine. Mark the shaft and roll it under a sharp knife or cut with a fine tooth saw. I made a saw guide kinda like a small mitre box with an adjustable stop that worked very well.
Most of the high speeds use a cutoff wheel that works great with alum or carbon, but not so well with wood, basically burning through the shaft. It took some searching but I finally found a half inch hole wood blade to work with my Horizon.
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