[Fletcher]

in reply to: help choosing arrows and tuning #39084

I agree with the other guys that it sounds like your arrows are stiff, but check the brace height first. You didn’t mention what brand or model, but something around 8 inches will get you in the ballpark. If it is lower than that, it could be the cause of your feather wear. If the brace is OK, then it is probably the stiff spine. You can go to a less stiff shaft or a heavier point. I recommend trying the heavy point first as it is a cheap way to verify a too stiff spine.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: How do I make a heavy carbon arrow? #37789

Rudy, you haven’t mentioned checking arrow flight, so I’ll bring it up, as good arrow flight trumps everything else for good penetration and arrow performance. I prefer to paper tune, but some others like bareshafting. Whatever method you choose, make sure your arrows are flying straight and true. No matter how heavy or fast, an arrow flying even a little bit sideways will not penetrate well.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Long bow #37771

I’ll ditto the comment on Jim’s Thundrestick bows.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Long bow #34103

You asked for brands, so I’ll say that I’m kinda partial to Robertson Stykbow and Great Northern. Most of today’s bowyers make a very good product, tho. I’m also glad to see that you have the description correct, deflex/reflex. The limbs deflex off the riser and then reflex to the tips. There are very few bows made in the Reflex/Deflex “Cupid bow” design.

A lightweight used bow is a great place to start and you can buy and sell for pretty much the cost of shipping. Classified ads, bow shoots and local stickbow shooters are good places to find them.

Enjoy the hunt! Rick

[Fletcher]

in reply to: How do YOU sharpen single bevel heads? #34096

This is gonna sound pretty simple Nick, but to me it isn’t that much different than sharpening a regular double bevel, except that I’m only gonna file the burr up on one side. I take the burr off by laying the flat side of the head lightly on the flat on the file and push into the edge. When I’ve worked it to a fine edge or burr, I strop it off like a regular head. I’ll likely have an ElGrande in my quiver this fall; maybe I’ll get a chance to use it.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Bow fishing #32808

40-50 lb bow is plenty. Get a good pair of polarized sunglasses. Be ready to have a bunch of fun.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Most Trouble Free Wood Shaft #32778

That’s alright, Patrick, We’ll add some others in for you. Like most things, arrow wood choice is a compromise. We just have to make our choice based on what works for us.

Ray, you’re going outside my box. Cane has been making good arrows for a LONG time. Keep in touch as you’re walking that path.

Steve, I recognize what you are saying about the fir. I cull out quite a bit of it, probably 25-30%. What makes the cut, tho, is pretty good stuff. I’ve been messing with the sitka spruce lately. So far I’ve made over 20% FOC with a 28″ BOP arrow. It took a 70 lb shaft for a 54 lb Pronghorn longbow and the total arrow weight was about 620 gr. The spruce maxes out at about 80 lb spine, so there is a real limit there.

Rick

[Fletcher]

in reply to: New to archery #28385

Welcome to the club, jmed! A thread like this should have more than one response, but I can’t think of anything to add to Steve’s post or change. You should be able to find an all trad or other bowhunting/archery organization in your state and you will find lots of help there. Also look into bow shoots in your area.

Above all, enjoy the journey!

Rick

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Mathematically Speaking #28198

Math and physics can find an application in practically anything. Personally, I try to keep math out of my archery. Arithmetic is OK, but not math. In messing with front loaded wood arrows, I have figured that I need to add about one pound of static spine for each ten grains of lead I shove up the nose. That’s about as much math as I want to use.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Arrow Spine #27369

Thanks for the welcome, Snuffy. I’m honored to be here and happy to offer any insight and help that I can.

Enjoy the journey! Rick

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Arrow Spine #27182

Dennis, try the heavy field points on your 2117’s and I think you will see quite an improvement. I think you will be able to tune the 2020’s, too. 2219’s are about a 95 lb spine and will probably be too stiff for your Robertson. They might be a good match for the Grable, tho. Good luck and enjoy the journey!

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Paper tuning #27174

Too weak or too stiff, both will show as a horizontal tear, the tear will be in opposite directions, tho. One of the things I like about paper tuning, is that you can visually see what the arrow is doing as it leaves the bow. Looking at the tear in the paper, you will be able to see which end was the point and which was the fletching and thereby “see” what the arrow was doing as it passed thru. For a right hand shooter, if the point is right of the fletching, the arrow is weak; if the point is going thru left of the fletching the arrow is too stiff. Opposite for a lefty. Nocking point tears are similar except that you will seldom see a nock low tear. If the nocking point is too low, the arrow will bounce off the shelf and give you a nock hi tear. Just work with your nocking point until you get the smallest vertical tear possible. When you find the arrow spine/nocking point that gives you a hole instead of a tear, you have found perfect spine and nocking point for your bow.

Paper tuning seems to be best done about six feet from the bow. Make sure the target butt is far enough beyond the paper so that the arrow is fully clear of the paper before it hits the target. Lightweight butcher type paper is probably the best for paper tuning but newspaper works pretty good and is cheap and always available.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Wood Arrow Build Along "Finished" #25879

Are those internal weights I’m seeing in the point taper picture?

[Fletcher]

in reply to: Wood arrows and EFOC #25154

Dave, I have another round of tests to make before I offer the “Heavy Heads” as an option, but I’d be happy to drill and stuff a few for you to play with and abuse. I’ll be in touch.

I have a much more solid and precise jig than the drill guide some are using, so my holes are centered and a close fit on the wire. The wire is installed before the point tapers are ground. I grind my tapers and don’t have any issues or problems.

[Fletcher]

in reply to: How much bow and arrow for hogs? #25143

Someone suggested that I copy this post from the Ashby forum to this thread. Apparently, this bow and arrow combo was adequate for this pig. BTW, he eats pretty good.

EFOC in a wood arrow is going to be a challenge due to the shaft weight and spine limitations. It is possible to get some pretty high FOC, tho.

I shot this pig, 125 lb dressed, a couple of weeks ago. The arrow has 20.6% FOC. It is a Sitka Spruce shaft, 28″ BOP with a 50 grain 1/8″ lead wire internal weight and a 190 gr VPA Terminator 3-blade. Shaft spine is 70 lb and the total arrow weight is 620 gr. The bow is a 58″, 54 lb @ 26″ Pronghorn TD. The shot went in near the last rib and stopped in the opposite front leg, centering the heart on the way thru. I had paper tuned this arrow and it was shooting bullet holes.

A similar 125 lb hog was shot with a similar HFOC arrow, with a 70 gr weight and a Zwickey Delta. Full penetration, completely cutting ribs on both sides. I haven’t figured the FOC but it will be pretty close to the other arrow.

Interesting note: This is the only dead critter I’ve walked up on that had its eyes closed. It had me wondering for a moment.

[/img][/img]

[Author]

Posts