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in reply to: Who's going to Compton? #51016
I’m planning to be there with my wares. Hopefully, I’ll have my same spot right next to TBM. After last year, you can be sure I’ll be watching the weather, but it is usually very nice there in June. It is a great site and gathering.
in reply to: feather orientation #49954Black Widow has recommended a 12 o’clock cock feather for quite some time and it works very well. I still shoot the standard cock feather out, but have indexers for my Bitz jigs to fletch the cock feather up
in reply to: Heavy Judo points #49934Ace Archery Tackle makes the Hex blunts up to 200 grains.
in reply to: Proper arrow length #49931You will want at least a 29″ arrow. At that length, I would recommend a 55-59 lb spine for your bow and point weight. Add another 5 lbs spine for each added inch of arrow length and maybe another 5 if you go up to a 160 gr point.
Fir and sitka both make very good arrows. IMO, fir is the best shooting wood and carries good weight for a hunting arrow. Spruce is quite light and lends itself well to using heavy point weight for high FOC, until you run out of spine at about 75 lbs. Both are much more durable than POC.
in reply to: The one thing I discovered…. #49915That bow looks like hickory,to me.
Even slightly crooked arrow flight will greatly diminish penetration and it isn’t likely that both bows will shoot the same arrow well.
in reply to: Banana Cut Feathers…Anyone else love em? #49908If you get the big ones like the Trueflight Maxi’s, yeah they can pretty loud. In general, the taller a feather is, the noiser it will be. They are thinner, softer and vibrate more in flight causing the noise. Fletchings with a long tip on the back, like a P&Y cut, tend to be noisier for the same reason. A low cut banana cut won’t be any noisier that anything else. I burn, but you can also cut them with a little chopper.
Paper tuning is done with fletched arrows. That is one of the things I like about it. Rig up something that will hold a sheet of newspaper or butcher paper. I now have a PVC frame, but I’ve also cut a hole in a cardboard box and taped the paper over it. Set the paper up in front of a target butt of some sort far enuf so that the arrow will be clear of the paper before it hits the target. Step back about 6 to 10 feet and shoot an arrow thru the paper and into the target. If your arrows are flying straight, there will be a ragged quarter size hole in the paper. If they aren’t flying straight, there will be a “Y” shaped tear and you will be able to tell where the point and fletch went thru the paper. For a right hand shooter, if the point is to the right, the arrow is weak, point to the left the arrow is stiff. Point low is a nock point issue. If the arrow is very stiff, it is possible to get a false weak indication by the nock end hitting the riser hard enuf to bounce the fletching away from the bow.
I hope this makes sense; it’s pretty late for me to be thinking.
A 2216 is a pretty stiff shaft, about 83 lb AMO. If your bows are cut well past center, you may be alright, but I suspect you are stiff. Good arrow flight can be tough to verify visually. A quick way to check it is to shoot thru paper from 6-8 feet. Looking at the tear in the paper, you will be able to see just what the arrow was doing as it passed thru.
in reply to: Multitool Suggestions #9815I have a standard Gerber that I’ve carried for many years. I have a Leatherman too, but have always preferred the Gerber.
in reply to: Screw-in Abowyer Brown Bear #63680According to my calipers, my new 200 gr Grizz are 1 5/32″; just under 1 3/16. Still wide enuf, I think. 😉
in reply to: thunderstick bow #54109Jim’s Thundersticks are great bows; solid, dependable, well crafted and excellent performers. One of the best trad bow values available.
in reply to: Bow Quiver or Back Quiver???? #50699For function, a Howard Hill is probably hard to beat. The Wyandotte kit looks like a very good value.
in reply to: How much bow and arrow for hogs? #47302Thanks, King. It always feels great when you can watch them fall over quickly. He ruined my fancy arrow, tho.
in reply to: Bow fishing #47291Steve covered it pretty well. Aiming is a learned technique. The further from vertical and the deeper the fish, the lower you have to aim. If the fish’s back or dorsal is breaking the surface, aim at bottom of the fish. Other than that, aim lower. Early in the spawn, look for warmer water in the shallows on the downwind side of the lake, but try to get there before the wind ripples the surface. The bottle style AMS Retriever, big spincast reels and the plain drum style reel all work fine, but nothing shoots as nice as a Retriever. Have fun!
in reply to: help choosing arrows and tuning #39088NV, measure the brace height from the string to the deepest part of the grip. For starters, locate your nocking point so your arrow nock is about 1/4 to 3/8″ above level.
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