[Daniel]

in reply to: Problems with my release again !!!!!! #55643

Today, the good folks above must be keeping an eye on me for sure, I started shooting a single arrow at a time at 5 yards and did so till I got a grooping that looked good. I like taking a break after shooting about 20 minutes to let my muscles re-coup and I shot again one arrow at a time at 10 yards. 20 minutes later, I’m satisfied. And that’s how far I’m keeping it for a few days, going to and from 5 – 10 yards always making sure I draw to my anchor point and releasing as best I can.

Here is one thing I noticed, on some shots when I’m thinking about my release and holding on a tad too long, I tend to pluck the string. When I just concentrate on getting to my cnchor point, the finger open alot smoother and the arrow goes where its supposed to. I thought it would be the opposite, think about your realease, release goes well, instead of thinking about the release and plucking the string.

Thanking everyone for your input. SB

[Daniel]

in reply to: Considering the sound of arrow flight? #55636

Now that is alot of information to think about Steve, your post brought me back to a bowhunt 2 years ago. I remember shooting at a nice buck and I completely misjudged my distance, the buck was about 45 yards away and I put him at 30-35 yards. Shooting between an alley of spruce trees really mislead my range. Anyhow, as the arrow flew towards the deer, let me tell you the deer was out and gone before the arrow got relatively close to him. I was shooting with 3 large banana style feathers and they indeed made alot of noise. Your post brought me back to that particular time which is why today I shoot 3 low 5 inch shields feathers.

Feather Noise has to be considered when we are shooting heavier arrows that travel at a lower speed, good point.

Great post Steve !!

SB

[Daniel]

in reply to: Problems with my release again !!!!!! #54610

Thanks Dave, I’ve given myself a bit of a break and will go out shooting again. I’ll move to 5 yards and see how it goes and I’ll post the outcome 🙂

A day at a time they say !!!

[Daniel]

in reply to: A Bow Hunters's Prayer #54414

That there just made my day !! Thank you for posting that 🙂

[Daniel]

in reply to: BLOOD TRAILING BASICS #53667

Both Steve’s need a kuddo’s here, great information and obviously tons of knowledge, thanking the both of you for a ton of really great information and help.

SB

[Daniel]

in reply to: Where in Canada #41885

Hi Ironman, welcome to traditonal archery, a great place to be. Dennis at Git-R-Done archery in Calgary, Alberta is amazing to deal with plus he provides a great service. We also live vbery far away from the major cities ( Northwest Territories ) and we have had no problems getting equipment and accessories shipped through Canada Post. He is a kind man and a pretty darn good traditional bowhunter himself.

[Daniel]

in reply to: Getting Ready for Deer Season #40067

Great looking arrows and as for the broadheads, you seem to have a pretty nice combination !! Awesome shooting 🙂

[Daniel]

in reply to: Something to give away…final edit #39880

Well, folks, I finally sent the bow out last week, through Canada Post and submitted the parcel tracking number to Bear for his review. I ended up leaving town on training and then had to divert to British Columbia for work.

I do want to apologize to Bear for sending the bow so late but I was unable to so until last week.

Good thing is the bow is now on its way to Bear and I want to thank everyone that participated in this draw.

SB

Moose hunting season is now open !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Daniel]

in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #39864

Single bevel edges, hmmm, I think I’ve heard just about every opinion/comment about their use and effeciency. I must admit I can’t really add anything more to what Dr. Ashby has done in both his studies and experiences with that particular type of broadhead but what I can tell you is that the type of steel used in making them does make a huge difference.

Firstly, what is sharp and why are we adding a particular sharp edge on our broadheads. Is shaving hair on our forearms the determining factor on how a broadhead will work when going through an animal, well, I don’t think so. A 14 degree edge will shave hair on your arm but with certain type broadheads, the edge will not do what you intended them to do, instead, the broadhead edge will either curl, bend of break when encountering bone because the broadhead total hardness is too soft.

With either spring and or stainless steel broadheads made today, we have the ability to either add a 18 degree edge or a 30 degree edge on them and still have them razor sharp. The reason is broadhead manufacturers are now getting their steel heat treated, sub zero quenched and then tempered to a hardness that can rival any custom knife made out in the knifemaking industry.

A good rule of thumb is is you use a broadhead that has softer steel, then you should consider adding a finer angle to it. And again, if you have a braodhead that has harder steel ( some spring steel and stainless steel broadheads ) you can add a much wider angle to them increading their durability/ strength and still have them razor sharp.

Now since most stainless steel single bevel broadheads ( in the HRC 57 – 61 ) are being heat treated, sub zero quenched and tempered to a high quality broadhead, a much finer and thiner edge can now be considered as strong as any double beveled edge broadhead made out there today. Let’s face it, the single bevel edge is notorious at how devestating its cut is and then add to it a hardness that makes it extremely strong, well, you now have yourself a new generation of highly effecient broadheads that get the job done.

Should you see any type of bending and or curling on your broadheads, widen the edge a bit more so that you are giving the edge itself more steel support.

This a a gteneral guide that I use to add particular edges on my broadheads:

HRC 50 – 56 : 20 degrees ( primary edge 18 with 20 degree on top)
HRC 56 – 59 : 25 degrees ( primary edge 20 with 25 degrees on top – for North American Game)
HRC 56 – 59 : 30 degrees ( primary edge 25 with 30 degrees on top > for Dangerous Game ).

Please feel free to send any questions you have over regarding steel and its proprieties, I would be more than happy to send you the information you need to make the decision of what angles to add on your broadheads and why.

SB

[Daniel]

in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #12483

Hi Danny, that’s a good question. Ron can really help you on this one, he’ll probably have a few things to say on how to get started using the appropriate angles and bevels. Give him a shout or better yet, perhaps he’ll join in and help you here.

Again, I think you asked the million dollar question, which is why Ron came up with his system.

[Daniel]

in reply to: The anatomy of a broadhead's edge #12303

I haven’t forgotten all of you awesome people, will be back soon, need to take care of a few things and I will posting on the single bevel edge.

Meegwetch ! ( Thank you in my language )

[Daniel]

in reply to: Sharpening question for Standing bear or Ron #8855

No Ron, I am talking about you, anyone that is lucky enough to have the chance to know you is a very fortunate person. I think its important to give what is owed to people that deserve it. Not only do you give people 150 percent of yourself, you also have a listening ear that enables people to feel better.

I am glad in a sense to have this opportunity through jon’s tread to share with the readers of Tradbow what lots of us believe is a great addition to our world, that’s you Ron, yeapers, Ron of KME Sharpening Systems.

Enough said about you Ron, thank you for allowing us to share in your unconditional support of a great edge.

[Daniel]

in reply to: Sharpening question for Standing bear or Ron #8675

All I can say is Ron’s sharpener will amaze you in ways it can sharpen. A genius of a man, a kind hearted soul and great product developer.

I am able through the use of a great sharpening device sharpen a single blade at a time ( Rothar Snuffer ) adding 22 degrees and getting them scary razor sharp. And no, I an not touching two blades at 30 degrees, the diamond one is only adding the edge I want to the one blade.

You know, I’ll sharpen either broadheads or knives and makes guys shake their heads, simply because they thought it wasn’t possible. It may not be conventional, but the work gets done in the end. Its really tough trying to explain how I do things sometimes over the internet while it would be so easy if you were here in my shop.

Will leave now, wishing all of you a beautiful day.

[Daniel]

in reply to: Sharpening question for Standing bear or Ron #8212

Been a very long and hard day, cut the end of a aluminum arrow and screw the broadhead to it. Open the KME knifesharpener jaws and insert the arrow in it with the broadhead 1/2 inch away from the jaw. Make sure the two blades of the broadhead are level with the jaws and voila, you can now add a 22 degree edge to the blade. To do the two other blades simply rotate the arrow and level the two blades so they are level and repeat the process. To do the other side, just flip the broadhead and repeat the procedure.

I was able to get my Rothar Snuffer crazy sharp and at 22 degrees. I used the diamond hones , medium, fine and extra fine that Ron sent me to do this, they work great.

Special note on getting these babies to sharpen is take your time and don;t add too much pressure. The other thing is make sure you balance your edge, meaning if you gave one side of the blade a pass, then do the other side.

Hope this made sense, its a bit late to start taking pictures but I will add them to your tread later.

[Daniel]

in reply to: Sharpening question for Standing bear or Ron #7715

The answer to your question is Yes, absolutely !!! We are splitting our wood for the winter season but tonight I’ll take a picture and show you an example using a Rothar Snuffer. Thank you for your question, I’m sure Rick, I’m sorry about that, Ron has a way too 🙂

[Author]

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