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in reply to: What do you do when you hit a bulls eye? #42279
I go yes when I hit that Bulls eye, and when I’m getting wore down from shooting I make sure my quiting shot is in or right beside that Bulls eye even if I have to move up a couple of yards to do it. That’s the last thing in my mind the next time I start to practice.
in reply to: Tendonitis? #35058Steve Graf wrote: I googled tricep tendonitis, and there are braces for that too!
i’ve got to agree with Steve Graf, have had tendon damage and it’s taken me a couple years for them to heal. My latest injury is my left elbow joint, I went out to close my pole shed doors last early October and pulled something in that joint and as of right now it’s just starting to get better. My doctor told
Me to go to the drug store and get the tennis elbow strap Steve talked about. It’s still sore but has gotten better the last couple of weeks. I shoot left handed and that part hasn’t bothered me. I don’t think this going to go away for a couple more years. Try it, good luck to you.
in reply to: Re-Thinking old Thoughts on Woodies #17370Steve Graf wrote: In a different thread on woodies I mentioned that I had seen an unexpected behavior in wood arrows, that behavior being that as I cut the arrow shorter it began to act weaker.
Since then I have seen that behavior repeated on my own arrows, and others. This behavior is quite disturbing to ones sense of the universe when seen for the first time.
For the most part I have not seen any old timer talk about bare shaft tuning wood arrows. I used to think that that was because they just didn’t really understand arrow flight that well back in the day…I wish someone would reply on his question o. What arrow to use …
Another piece of advice the old timers seem to universally agree about is that the first thing to do when setting up wood arrows is to cut them as short as you can for your draw length, then play with point weight to get good arrow flight from your fletched shafts.
I have found this piece of advice to be good and true too.
Playing with wood arrows over the last six months or more I have learned one thing for sure. Woodies are not carbons. The same rules don’t apply.
So the next interesting and unexpected piece of advice I am playing with is that straight fletching is better than helical fletching. This according to an article in Yea Silvan Archer back in the ’30’s. And other sources I remember but can’t quote.
So far it has proven true. I am so confused 😳
And so now I am shouting out to all shooters of wooden arrows for your interesting experiences and tips for better understanding… What qualities of wood arrows make you sit up and take notice?
in reply to: I think I have a record here… #59229That’s scary Doc, we better stick with the deet and the picaridin!!!
in reply to: I think I have a record here… #58511I’ll have to try the permitherin Doc, thanks for the tip. I seen on the I-phone last night where the deet works better for ticks than the picaridin.
in reply to: I think I have a record here… #57889Hey everybody, I stopped at wall-mart today in Ok. On my way to K. City, Ka. I found mainly tick spray there by Repel, also for Mosquitos. Comes in a brown can, main active ingredient is picaridin. Going to try this turkey hunting and looking for Morels Mushrooms. 85% other ingredients, it didn’t mention deet.
in reply to: Traditional Snowshoes for Hunting #57113Thanks for the info spikebuck on the bindings. Going to have to get ahold of Don and order a pair of those! Them rubber bindings on mine are half the reason I don’t use mine. My snowshoes are the 30×16 bearpaws. Excellent for thick willow and woods when there is enough snow.
in reply to: I think I have a record here… #57075Lol, I think I’ll stick with the Repel Doc Nock. I need to get home to (South Dakota) so I can try to fill my spring turkey tag. Got me a new 1959 Classic Bear Kodiak waiting in the Post Office. This trucking to Tx. taking to much of my time! We have tons of ticks this year to.
in reply to: Traditional Snowshoes for Hunting #56696Spikebuck; I have wooden snow shoes (bearpaws) made in Canada from Cabelas back in the 1980’S. Mine work excellent for me when hunting in thick willow when the snow gets deep enough. Like walking through weeds. Don’t get enough snow every year in S.D. To use them all the time. There still like new. What I need is different bindings. Mine are rubber pull on over the heel, when it’s cold I can’t hardly get them over a pair of Sorel snowpacks. Do you know where I can get some easier to use bindings? Would appreciate the help.
in reply to: I think I have a record here… #56655GRUMPY; you need to spray heavier to keep the ticks off, and off insect spray is just paying for the name brand. Use Repel or Woodsman. It,s cheaper and usually has more deet for less money. I have been in the woods looking for Morels and ticks were so thick you could find a spot on all the willow for another tick without them piggy-backing each other. When I got home only had a couple ticks. Luckily when I got home I had the wife to look for them! Better luck to you next time.
in reply to: Horse elk hunt: #43236Sorry Styx, got my reply mixed in with your quote. Need more practice on this I-phone with TradBow Forums. Appreciate the comments and info from everyone.
in reply to: Horse elk hunt: #43231Stix wrote: Ok, after reading Smithammers attachment, I understand what you are referring to.
I have on one occasion unintentionally “slept” amongst the herd. I set up a spike camp in the ravine next to where the herd was at dark. I estimate about 200 yards. I was awaken about 3am by the herd, all around my spike camp calling to each other. I guess my snoring attracted them?? Lol. But anyway, all the elk calling to each other woke me up. I peeked out of my tent and they were only a few feet away. The sound of the zipper of the tent caused them to move, bot maybe 50 yards or so. It was a frigid night so I decide not to pursue them as it would have probably drove them into the next county. By daybreak they were gone.
This goes against everything that I have learned about elk, but I guess it could work, but I’ve only read about folks doing this in books. Your mileage may vary. Thanks for the comeback Styx! Iv’e had a similar experience in Mont. many years ago on a drop camp hunt 10 miles+ deep in the woods. I had bull elk screaming there heads off outside my camp on the head waters of a bowl! I should of had elk that week but had no experience at all and two deer to my credit at the time. Wanted to hear some similar experiences as I figure my plan. Need to find an area no motorized—-horses only.
in reply to: Planning an Elk Hunt #43223Cleland wrote: [quote=Smithhammer]I’ll take a stab at answering your question, with the qualifier that there are obviously no ‘hard and fast’ rules to any of this – as sure as one person says they don’t recommend doing a certain thing, someone else will say that they had success doing exactly that.
I’m not familiar with the term “wolfing” elk (it might have a different meaning in Idaho..:wink: ), but personally I would not choose to camp right among elk that I am hunting during the day, nor even particularly close them. I think it’s better to back off and give them some space at night. I’d be worried that the smells/noise of camp would drive them off. I find that most times, if you can “put them to bed,” so to speak, they will likely not move too far during the night, unless they have a really good reason to. When elk do have a reason to move (such as excessive human presence nearby) they can, and likely will, move a long way before settling down again.
Thanks for the comeback Primal Styx. Kind of what I was thinking, maybe move off 1-1/2 to 2 miles down wind and out of sight. I would like to leave main camp and supplies close to the vehicle parking dead-end. Then go in with my horse 5+ miles, maybe up to 10 miles on 2-4 day hunts, then be within fairly easy striking distance at first light instead of traveling 7-10 miles on horse before daylight. Just got the one horse for riding and packing. Thinking Colo. Does anyone know witch unit in Ida has the largest population of elk in Idaho? A remote area assesable by horse only. Will be hunting the general archery Sept. season.
in reply to: Planning an Elk Hunt #43204Smithhammer wrote: I’ll take a stab at answering your question, with the qualifier that there are obviously no ‘hard and fast’ rules to any of this – as sure as one person says they don’t recommend doing a certain thing, someone else will say that they had success doing exactly that.
I’m not familiar with the term “wolfing” elk (it might have a different meaning in Idaho..:wink: ), but personally I would not choose to camp right among elk that I am hunting during the day, nor even particularly close them. I think it’s better to back off and give them some space at night. I’d be worried that the smells/noise of camp would drive them off. I find that most times, if you can “put them to bed,” so to speak, they will likely not move too far during the night, unless they have a really good reason to. When elk do have a reason to move (such as excessive human presence nearby) they can, and likely will, move a long way before settling down again.
Thanks for the comeback Primal Styx. Kind of what I was thinking, maybe move off 1-1/2 to 2 miles down wind and out of sight. I would like to leave main camp and supplies close to the vehicle parking dead-end. Then go in with my horse 5+ miles, maybe up to 10 miles on 2-4 day hunts, then be within fairly easy striking distance at first light instead of traveling 7-10 miles on horse before daylight. Just got the one horse for riding and packing. Thinking Colo.
in reply to: Southwest DIY Javelina Hunts? #31537Etter1 wrote: [quote=Smithhammer][quote=Cleland] Smithhammer: where at in Arizona was you hunting?
South of Tucson, not far from Sonoita.
Great sig line Bruce!
“Who’s got a million dollars in the back of their car?”how did the southwest javelina hunt go? Anyone going elk hunting on horses?
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