[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: To burn or cut is the question? #10846

3Blades:

I use the choppers, usually in high burn, 5-5 1/2″ lengths, cut from full length feathers. This usually allows me the options of a main feather, and a flu-flu feather or a smaller 3″ or 4″ from one full length feather. There are right and left wing choppers, however, in a pinch, one can use either for either wing by reversing the feather – just takes more caution when using the opposite of the intended use. The full length feather also allows me the option to make splices from which to chop out the desired feather shape. Although I use both shield and parabolic shapes, I have noticed more noise when shooting the shield cuts and I am really starting to like the Pope and Young chopper shape.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: Ideal Broadhead weight #8489

Standing Bear:

My ideal broadhead weight appears to be 125-145 grain. If I get a proper draw with a heavy bow and arrow combination, that grain weight could go to 190, however, with the more steadfast style of shooting I do in the 40 – 50 pound bow weight class, the 125 – 145 grain broadhead does the job more consistently. At least, that is how it works for me with wood arrows and not concentrating on extreme weight forward of centre ratios.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: Hunting Binoculars #8475

I am not an expert or, for that matter, even very knowledgeable about binoculars, however, several years back I obtained a set of Ranging 5 x 30 camouflage binocs, which seem to be ideal for hunting our wooded areas. I’m not sure these are still made or available today but for $60.00 used, I was and am still quite impressed.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: WHICK WOOD WOULD YOU US #29334

Shoot01:
You are asking the same questions I asked when my interest leaned to building one of my own. To date, I have completed a white oak longbow ( broke in three pieces first drawing ), two black locust flatbow design ( wood developed hinges – failed) and I now have an ironwood shaped, but, not completed and a whole pile of hickory staves. The hickory seems strong, nice grain and easy to work and the ironwood, well, it works like iron – tough and really needs sharp tools to bring it down. Conclusion to date: Will be working on a hickory self bow, leaving it long and trying for that first successful flight from an arrow.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: wood shafts #25277

Hi, Cody
If you’re thinking about wood, you won’t be complete until you try it. I’d start with a set of cedars first and then progress to the other types and start with premium shafting or arrows. Although the spine weight will be a personal choice dependent upon many variations of your style of shooting, you will no doubt receive beneficial knowledge from the provider of your arrows or shafts. Better still if you have access to friends or fellow archers who would be able to let you try different weights, spines, wood type to obtain a benchmark from where to begin your quest. Once bitten by the wood bug,you will begin a lifelong search for that perfect wood arrow. It is said that bamboo is nature’s carbon, and on it goes… Good luck.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: Hunting Knives #20661

My personal preference. A Swiss army knife with scissors in my pocket always – a heavy duty, simple single blade folder, on my belt or pack, such as the Buck 110, etc.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: Well I went and did it… #19645

Hey, Rocks, Congratulations. You are now “hooked”. I still have the fancy solid fibreglass green bow of 15 pounds or so, I started shooting with 55 years ago. I’ve now gone through umpteen recurves and longbows to attain that perfect setup and still looking. BUT, the secret is – I’m still shooting.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: WHATS EVERYONE SHOOTING? #19625

Any straight-limbed, straight-gripped longbow, 66″ – 70″, 40-64 pound and wood arrows.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: 40# Recurve and a Buffalo #8220

Doctor Ashby

I read with intense interest most of your printed research work and I feel the bowhunting world owes you a debt of gratitude for your thorough insights. I agree that heavy, two fixed – bladed solid broadhead equipped arrows will deliver enough force to kill any game animal and that FOC is a factor. However, a 41 pound bow delivering a 650-700 grain arrow has got me a little mystified. Can that weight of a bow actually send an arrow of that weight with what we would call a smooth arrow flight, enough to effect a proper placement and penetration?

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: Target Panic #8195

Hi! Patrick

As Hiram and others have discovered, Dr. Kidwell’s book and advice is a way to cure target panic. I think once you have experienced TP, you always suffer from it and archers and bowhunters everywhere use different methods to come to terms with it. Personally, I have found that the more I concentrate on avoiding the problem the worse I get. Now, I go with it, forget about the anchor, stand close, get a sight picture, hold for a split second near my face and release. This keeps me shooting until the confidence comes back. Whether or not I ever get to a point that a solid anchor is maintained, I don’t worry about it as long as I can hold the sight picture before releasing.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: Backpacks #63546

Patrick, take a look at the Jim Horn series of packs, one called the Canadian – very versatile, comfortable, rugged, lots of straps – won’t likely carry all the equipment Dave shows on his pack but will sure get the job done.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: your opinion on proper form #63542

TrapperBob

Great topic for discussion. I have come to realize many things in my lengthening years in archery. One of them is we concentrate too much on proper form – other people’s proper form! My particular nemisis is the anchor point. I do not like anchoring against my chin, face, nose, tooth and find I can be consistent as long as my eye views the exact centre of the centre of the target and when I am at full draw I hold that spot for a split second. This is not a snap shot but is very quick. I know this may seem like there is no consistent spot for that rear sight to take in the whole picture, however, this “floating” type anchor then allows the same sight picture and seems to work for me.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: The "older" Bowhunter #63528

RR and all mature bowhunters everywhere.
I’m 62 as well and really, really understand the term “sneak and peek” hunting, now. I get to hunt with the “youngsters” quite often but rather than keep up with them, I explain that they’ll see more by going at my speed. It helps to convince them you’re too old to be dangerous but just young enough to think you could be.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: For those of you that hunt with wood arrows #63519

I’m sticking with wood arrows here. I prefer nock tapered arrows with a total weight with point of ten grains per pound of bow weight at my draw. I know there is a lot of talk about front loaded arrows and high FOC, but I just don’t get the proper flight from wood if I concentrate too much on these very worthy facets of dynamics.If my arrows have a moderate FOC and weight in the ratio indicated, flight is usually great whether using a 50 pound bow with 500 grain arrow or 64 pound bow with a 600-650 grain arrow. As to material, I have used many of the hardwoods. Cedar most likely the most consistent until the heavier shafting is required. Then it’s hickory or laminated birch.

[Buckhorn73]

in reply to: Grizzly tough! #62166

The information contained in this segment is quite beneficial. Thanks to all. What I have discovered after many years of an “off-on again” relationship with “Grizzlies” is that after the bevel angle is set and the required degree of sharpness attained, the cutting edge is really brought out by light pressure, then lighter pressure strokes with a file, then steel, then a strop, all lighter and lighter and that head stays sharp. Even after the broadhead has made contact with the ground, wood, or bone, many times all it requires to touch it back up again is the steel, followed by lighter and lighter pressure on the strop.

[Author]

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