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in reply to: muck boots #22666
Wahoo,
I’ve got a pair of the “Wetland” model. They’re insulated, although I don’t know with what, and they have more of a lug sole (as opposed to the regular rubber boot type tread). I love them. I’ve never been much of a rubber boot guy, but these are the most comfortable ones I’ve ever worn. They’re quite warm too – warmer than some 600 gram thinsulate lace-up boots that I have. I think it has something to do with more air space for your foot, but if I wear those with a pair of light liner socks topped off with a pair of medium weight wool socks my feet are good for several hours of sitting (20-25 degree weather).in reply to: Nock Tension #50570cgchris wrote: (2 areas I shoot dont allow wooden arrows). Chris
Chris… the other guys pretty much covered your nock problem, but I’m curious about not allowing the use of wooden arrows. Never heard of that before. Are they state/federal lands, and do you know why they don’t allow the use of wood?
Brad
in reply to: First EFOC Deer Down #44386ralphs wrote: After non-recovery of my first hit on a buck with the trad bow,(a little high in the kill zone) I’ve had to rethink my entire arrow setup. I’ve read much of the Doc’s studies and am convinced that low FOC(12.30%) was the major factor in not recovering my buck. Had I read the Doc’s studies before… I beleive my experience would be different. I’m shooting 50# with a 29″ draw and 31″ arrow and a 150 gr Woodsman. I’ll experiment by adding a 50 or 100 gr insert.Total arrow weight will be 535 gr or 585 gr. My calculations (estimated) show I should get close to or exceed 20% FOC. I know that arrow flight is really important and from what I read this should not be too much of an issue with a 5″ flecthing Any suggestions??? Learning everyday and appreciate any help.
Ralphs,
Nothing against wanting to change you’re set-up, but I would tend to agree with Jason on re-tuning. I would think that just throwing an extra 100 grains on the front of your current shafts is going to cause them to be to weak in spine.in reply to: Here's my turkey #43805Congrats! Looks like you guys got a bit of snow out there…
in reply to: Small Game Heads #43186Duncan,
I’ve never put any extra weight in them, though I’ll probably try that sometime. What I do when I’m making them is use wood shafts that are spined about 10# less than what I normally use, which has always given me good flight. I think the whole shot (casing and blade) only weighs about 60 grains or so.in reply to: Small Game Heads #42730Here’s a pic…
in reply to: Small Game Heads #42728Killdeer wrote: I have lost a couple of squirrels to them, however, even with good penetration in the chest cavity. I guess I don’t jump on them quick enough when they get to the ground, and they run up a tree or into a hole right away.
That hits it right on the head… connecting on squirrels with an arrow is hard enough, but it’s usually only half the battle. Once you hit one then the fight, “goes to ground”, so to say. They’re kind of like turkeys in that you need to get on them quick or you can lose them.
I’ll use hexheads and broadheads at times, but mostly go with the .38 casings with some type of bleeder blade mounted in them (Bear bleeders or a piece of banding steel). The latter option is much more cost effective if you do a lot of squirrel chasing.
We’ve got tons of them also Kelly; more than we have probably ever had. Fact is though, we’ve also probably got more deer than we’ve ever had too. When you inflate the prey species the predators are going to [naturally] follow. I don’t deny they eat a lot of deer either, it just doesn’t seem (at least around here) that what they’re taking is really having any measurable effect on the herd.
Never had much urge to kill predators, guess cause I am one. Had opportunities, but never thought seriously about dropping the string. I figure we’re all kind of in the same boat. Was hunting on the groung in my ghille the other day and had a gorgeous red fox walk within 10 feet of me before he figured out something was amiss. He just turned around and walked back the way he came, cool as a cucumber. That really brought a smile to my face…
in reply to: Arrow length #34231Thanks for the exlanation Steve, although I’m still not sure I get it (evidently physics is not my strong point!).
in reply to: Arrow length #34194I would agree Duncan, but I thought what they were talking about was two different length arrows that were both spined perfectly for the same bow [as opposed to two identically spined shafts that you cut different lengths].
in reply to: Arrow length #34000[quote=”Steve Graf Here’s an experiment you can try that will illustrate the inherent stability of a longer arrow : place the butt end of a 6 foot stick on your palm. Now let go of it and keep the stick from falling. You will find this fairly easy to do. Now use a shorter stick, and shorter stick. Eventually you will not be able to balance it at all.
The ease with which you can balance the stick is proportional to the distance between your palm and the center of mass of the stick. The closer the center of mass is to your palm, the harder it is to balance the stick.
To prove this to yourself, take a stick that you almost couldn’t balance and add a weight to the end of it. Now try to balance it again with the weight end up in the air. Now you will find that you can balance the stick easily again. this is because the center of mass has been moved away from your palm.
Finally, now that you have experience with what it is like to balance sticks, try holding your arrows in the same way. A long one and a short one. Even if there is only 2 inches difference in length, you will find that it is easier to balance the longer one.
What this translates into when shooting a bow is forgiveness. If you can make a perfect shot every time, then use whatever arrow you want. But if you are inclined to screw up (like me), then you will appreciate a forgiving arrow.
Steve,
Not arguing here, just don’t understand…I understand your experiment, but how does it translate to the arrow being shot out of a bow? As an example, I draw 28″ on a longbow. If I have an arrow cut to 29″ BOP, which is spined perfectly for a given bow, and have another one cut 32″ BOP, which is also spined perfectly to that bow, how is the 32″ arrow more “forgiving”? If anything I would think the longer one would be less stable, as it would take it slightly longer to come out of paradox [given more space between it’s center-point and the ends of the shaft… or am I way off base here?
in reply to: Great Northern Bows #27533I picked up an all osage 80# bushbow about a year ago and it’s really a neat bow. Beautiful finish, very smooth drawing, and one of the quietest bows I’ve messed with.
in reply to: Hello, my name is Drew #12977Welcome Drew!
in reply to: Where do you get your wood arrows from #11881I used to use mostly cedar, but have switched to surewoods, which I get from our own “Fletcher” at the Feathered Shaft. I make my own; not that good at it, but I like making ’em! If I was going to buy finished ones though, I’d get them from Rick to… the man is an artist with the arrows.
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