[Bender]

in reply to: 10+#s off really? #25740

How exactly are you measuring that 28″ of draw? Are you truly following the AMO protocol? Was Howatt when they built the bow? Probably, but who knows for sure? Yes 10# is a lot but I bet that if you made sure to follow the AMO method exactly you’ll find that the bow is a lot closer to what the specs say.
Here’s a link to the process:
http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/AMO/AMOStandards.pdf
You’ll have to dig for it as it calls for using both the draw weight AND draw length standards.

[Bender]

in reply to: Arrow confused #10077

Never said Ashby reccomends big fletch.
Never even said Ashby was wrong.
I guess Ashby is easily taken out of context. Those who insist on big fletch do so in order to compensate for failure to properly tune. How do they wind up there? “Well Ashby said you have to have a massive arrow and EFOC.” And they just stop there. Laziness on their part? I’m still going to stand by what I said, no need to get all confused by Ashby, or by anybody else, stick with the basics and you’ll do fine. Better than fine.

[Bender]

in reply to: Arrow confused #8973

Not saying that EFOC causes bad flight. Haven’t seen what Ashby uses. But it wouldn’t surprise me that he would use a reasonably sized fletch. He seems to know what he’s doing. What I am saying it that way too many have ignored basic principles of tuning in their efforts to achieve EFOC, and as a consequence wind up using huge fletch just so they have something that kinda sorta flys. It seems to happen most often with new folks with little or no experience in arrow construction. They read about somewhere like a website or forum and they take it that EFOC is the be all and end all of arrow construction. Its becoming a dominant mindset to the exclusion of the basics. I’m not saying that EFOC is “bad”. But the well tuned arrow put in the right spot will do far more for your penetration and kill ratio than any amount of EFOC ever will. Follow the basics, get some time and experience, and over time that experience will enable you to play around with stuff like EFOC and determine for yourself what does and does not work. There is no reason what so ever for new folks to be confused or worse yet be out there shooting crappy set ups.

[Bender]

in reply to: Arrow confused #8577

Its an informational overload isn’t it?
Ask those who know, what kills the animal is putting the arrow in the right place. Shot placement. How do we get that? Accuracy. Aside from our form and execution a big part of accuracy is having properly tuned bow and arrow combination. An FOC of 10% to 15% is fine, An arrow weight of approx. 10 grains arrow weight per pound of draw weight is fine. Deadly. Don’t hope it all works out just in an attempt to achieve this “magical” EFOC. Why is it that those I see who swear by EFOC also find it absolutely necessary to use to use huge 5″ and even now 6″ fletch? Might it be because their arrow flight is exceptionally bad? Might they have sacrificed tuning? I’m not saying this is true of everybody, but I see it way too much.
I have no idea where you guys are at in your knowledge but should you find it helpful here is a link to some very good info on tuning trad bows: http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
If you shoot wood or aluminum you should have no problem achieving a decent FOC and arrow weight. If you shoot carbon a little research may be in order because they may prove to be light. But carbons are also obviously perfectly “doable”.

[Bender]

in reply to: 4-Finger Draw #57858

On the face of it I would have to say “Don’t do it!” because the less we have going on with our hand’s engagement with the string the better. With that being said though, the thing to do would be to try and objectively assess if it is adversely affecting accuracy, or it is just a wash, no difference, or what. If it isn’t affecting how the string leaves the fingers, it is possible there may even be an improvement, due to the pinky placement no longer messing with your mind.
So sscoyote, I would reccomend actually to try and get through having your hand heal. Even with throwing your pinky in there you’re stressing an injury, and is there really a need to totally alter what you’re doing for a temporary condition? That’s generally not good.
And sharpster, I can only stress that you be objective. It is possible that it could be all good, but realistically odds are against it.

[Bender]

in reply to: getting my lady to shoot… #36470

I happen to know because my wife shoots that the damned bra is a really big deal. If you girl friend is well endowed then both support and holding them in closer is important. My wife even has a couple of dedicated “Shooting Bras” that are only for when she shoots.
Sure, go ahead! Laugh! But he did ask!

[Bender]

in reply to: Increase in draw weight. #29278

You’ll certainly feel/notice the difference in draw weight. However can’t really say if it would turn out to be such s difference that you don’t like it or if it si much that it is bad for your shot execution. If possible try to get a hold of a 55# bow that you can shoot a few arrows through before making up your mind.

[Bender]

in reply to: long v short #29253

Since you’ve already got the short one to play with go for it. However actually tuning your set up rather than just fooling around and guessing may be in order. Especially since the use of broadheads indicates that you actually intend to try and go hunting.

[Bender]

in reply to: String questions #21155

Montana Ford pretty much has it in a nutshell. There are further details of course. Things like the concepts of stretch and creep, or the actual materials that the strands are made of and the possible blends of those materials, etc. etc. You can pick up those details in time, but we also don’t need to go into overload. It is a lot of info.
You did mention using a modern string material on an older bow in conjuction with double served (padded) end loops. Some folks swear by it. Bumps the performance on cool old bows. However I myself blew the tips off an old bow trying that. The tips came off in chunks, and the string was actually pulled down into the wood one limb by about an inch. Scared the crap outta me! So I don’t that anymore. Old bows from the 80’s and older all get Dacron (B-50) Newer bows, if there is any question in my mind I try and conatct the manufacturer or ask those familiar with the bow. Just because a bow is newer don’t always assume the bow is compatible with the new Fast Flight, low stretch low creep type of string materials. Many of the smaller bowyers still make bows with limb tips that although they may look reinforced, they still aren’t up to it. Nothing wrong with that, they’re just still making their bows to run with Dacron that’s all.

[Bender]

in reply to: i got a Q. #10639

3 of those brass washers is about the most you would want to use. 4 doesn’t leave much thread left sticking out to screw into the insert.
Don’t get mislead into sloppy thinking. There is no good reason to ignore a 20 grain weight difference. It will mean the difference between being in or out of tune. As your shooting improves you should also get to the point where such a difference also makes an obvious difference in the point of impact.

[Bender]

in reply to: sick of the pain!!!!!! #60884

When gripping the bow make sure you don’t have too much of your hand into the grip. The centerline of the grip should be slightly towards the thumb side of the lifeline crease in your palm.
Grip the bow, not too tight, don’t throttle it, with your draw hand grab the string like you’re going to draw, but just apply a little tension to hold things still, then rotate your bow arm elbow a little away from the string, gets the inside of your forearm away the path of the string, then you can complete the draw.
Check the bow’s brace height. I don’t know what type of sting comes with that bow but it is possible that the brace height is too low.
Open up your stance a little. When addressing the target like you’re going to shoot, if an imaginary line were drawn across the front of your toes and that line went straight to the target that is a “square” stance. If the rear most foot is a little behind that imaginary line, that is a “closed” stance. If the rear foot is forward that is an “open” stance. Move that rear ward foot a little so your whole body rotates to face more towards the target. Just a little! We’re talking like move that foot only about an inch.

[Bender]

in reply to: Final tweaks for good tune #56485

Assuming for the sake of arguement that they really are a little too stiff, reduce fletch length and get a thinner side plate. Do one thing at a time. Having shaft contact directly above the deepest part of the throat of the grip, if you can achieve that should add to “forgiveness” but shouldn’t affect tune in relation to the shaft behaving stiff/weak.

[Author]

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