Wood Arrow Build Along "Finished"

[desertdude49]

#6648

Ok here we go…..

Let me start off by saying that I’m not a expert but after 20+ years of building wood arrows here’s how I do it. By all means, please chime in if you have a better way or I missed some thing.

1. Tools needed to build wood arrows.

Spine Tester
Grain Scale
Tapering Tool
Sand Paper – Steel Wool
Fletching/Nock Glue I use Duco for the finish I use
Point Glue (Hot Meld/Epoxy)
Torch/Heat to install point Glue
Sealer, Dip Tube, Foam Brush (Many Options Here)
Paper Towels
Stains, Dyes, Cresting Paints, Crestor, Brushes (These items are optional)
Fletcher
Safety Glasses
Plyers

If I have missed any thing please jump in.

[desertdude49]

#53365

Ok the first thing I do is to spine check and weight all shafts. I wright the results on one end of the shaft. The shafts I’m making here are Cedars from 3Rivers, they are 11/32 parallel marked 65-70#. I found that all shafts were between 65-70# but the weights were between 389gr and 431gr.
That’s a Big difference, That’s why it’s so importent to check each shaft. I will do my best to fix this problem later.

When using a Spine tester it’s very importent to do 2 things.
1. Zero the dial, in the picture it shows a dial that’s not Zeroed.
2. Make sure the flat grain is facing you or end grain is facing up.

[SteveMcD]

#53368

DD.. first of all thank you for doing this. I would love to see what it is that other arrow makers do differently and perhaps better than myself. Question.. have you noticed any difference between buying shafts in bulk say by the 100, versus buying a “matched set” of 12 shafts. I would assume the set of 12 shafts are going to match closely in weight and spine, because you are paying more for them. What is your opinion? and experience with this?

Thanks,
Steve

[David Petersen]

#53373

Dude — How essential do you view the spine tester to be for the average guy who may build 2 or 3 dozen arrows a year? As you noted, they usually come fairly close in spine and it’s variations in weight we have to deal with. I’ve never had one and done pretty well, though I’m sure I’d do better with a spine tester.

Re Steve’s question about buyin gross: A professional arrowmaker I know, like most I’m sure, always buys shafts in hundreds, then carefull sorts them by weight and spine, so that he generally ends up being able to provide a dozen arrows of the same spine across a fairly wide array of weights. If I were to do that I’d wind up with a ton of shafts in spines and weights I could never use.

Sorry Dude, back to you. Pics are great.

[desertdude49]

#53423

Great question and input.

Here is my take on a Spine Tester. I have bought alot of different shafts from different shaft sources. You would think that you would Get what you asked/paided for. Not the case, I will not mention any place by name but in the past 2 years when I ordered 75-80 I would get anywhere from 65-85# spine shafts. For what reason I don’t know, at first I thought it was my Spine tester so I tested a bunch of different shafts and had a friend check them on his Tester (Adams) They all tested the same. I know that when I started bying Footed shafts from Kye @ Great Basin Footed Shaft I was a little unsure what to order because of my past dealings.

All the shafts I have recieved from him have tested the same on his and my Testers. So for me it’s one of the Most importent things, ever had a shaft just fly right and you right if off as a “Flyer” well come to find out it was way under spined (right handed shooter).

As for buying in large quanities, Like Dave Said you may get within the spine group (60-65 pound spine) but the shafts Will differ in weight by 100gr or more. Now on the other side you may get 35 shafts that will be right in your weight range and the rest you can use for Flu-Flu arrows or stumpers or testers.

[desertdude49]

#53436

Next step for me is deciding on which end I’m going to use for the Nock end….. I’m looking for the end with the least amount of grain run off. Meaning I don’t want a bunch of these (> > > > > >) near the nock or the point end.
I’m also looking for no bends at the end of the shaft.

Next will be to cut the nock taper. There are a couple of ways/tools to do this. For this build I used a Taper Tool.

**TIPS** Keep the blades new/sharp

I have used this tool for many years but it only works on soft wood shafting…

I also have a guide that I use with a disc sander to sand the nock/point tapers.

The “WoodChuck” Taper tool is another great tool.

I like to give the nock tapers a couple a twists on some sand paper to clean them up a bit. Not alot, don’t want to change the nock taper…

[William Warren]

#53465

Hey Dude,
Thanks for doing this. The only thing I have gone without is the spine tester. Guess I really ought to get one. I always end up with certain arrows that just are not the same as the others. Probably why.
Duncan

[desertdude49]

#53479

Just a note on a Spine Tester….. If you have a shaft/broadhead that is flying perfect for you, contact the person where you are getting your shafts from and send them that shaft so they can match it….

I have done this in the past with great results…..

[SteveMcD]

#53525

Thanks DD… one comment on spine and I’ll let it go. Yes, you’ve confirmed what I’ve heard previously, if you buy in gross, even as advertised for a given spine, you’re lucky if you can get a dozen matched shafts out of 100. BUT, not having or wanting a spine tester, if I am paying a premium for a given spine and matched weights, I may be gullible, but it is fair to expect to get what I pay for. Given that, sure I’ve found a flyer or two. There’s usually at least one in every dozen. Thanks!

[desertdude49]

#53532

Steve,
That’s my feelings also, I just paided $50 for a dz shafts that are supposed to be xx-xx they better be for that kind of cash…..I was lucky in that the guy who designed this Spine Tester is a friend of mine…..

[William Warren]

#53537

desertdude49 wrote: Just a note on a Spine Tester….. If you have a shaft/broadhead that is flying perfect for you, contact the person where you are getting your shafts from and send them that shaft so they can match it….

I have done this in the past with great results…..

Now that is a good idea. Might be better than buying a spine tester.

[desertdude49]

#53546

The next step for me is the Straightening. there are many ways to go about this. For me working with cedar,fir, and chundoo, I use the “sight down the shaft” a flex against the bend method. This is where I rub the bend area to warm it up and bend it against the palm of my hand. I keep doing this until the shaft is stright or it’s off to the stump arrow pile.

There are other ways using different tools and skills, this is the way I was taught…

At this point is there any other method that You are using to straighten a wood shaft…..?

Sorry for the bad picture, you get the idea here…

[Robin Conrads]

#54326

Great build-along, Dude!

Spine testers: For those of you who have back issues of TBM we have run two articles on building your own spine testers in the Jun/Jul 94 and Apr/May 99 magazines. Next time I go to the office I’ll pick out the best one and post it as a download file. Gimme a couple days…I don’t “go to the office” very often. 😆

[SteveMcD]

#54389

Robin, that would be great! Thanks!:D

[Robin Conrads]

#54429

Housekeeping! 😀

Just moving this thread to the Bows and Equipment forum. Carry on!

Robin

[aeronut]

#55307

I have three spine testers that I use to cross check each agains the other. I use the one I got from Kevin the most and also have an Adams and a dial indicator model that I machined out of aluminum. My homemade one is the most accurate but it is by far the slowest method.

One thing to consider about wood shafts concerning weight. When I was making and selling shafts I took great pains to make sure that I matched the weight within 10 grains in a dozen shafts.

Humidity plays a very big part in the weight of a shaft. A dozen shafts I would make in the summer during high humidity levels (80% or higher) would not weigh the same when I weighed them again in the winter (15% or so humidity) and vise-versa. Since no two shafts are exactly alike they will each react differently with humidity changes. I have had variations of as much as 60 grains on some of my shafts.

Hopefully I will be able to get back into the shaft making business someday. It is a fun endeavor and also very frustrating at times.

Dennis

[William Warren]

#55898

Robin,
Thanks for looking for the spine tester article!
Duncan

[Robin Conrads]

#57931

Okay, I have just posted Make Your Own Spine Tester. The two articles are different so see which one looks best to you. The high-res (LARGE) files are also in the Download Library if you want better quality print.

[desertdude49]

#58031

Ok next part of this build is to stain and seal.
There are 2 types of stains that I like to use,
1. Alydine Powder Dyes.
2. Good Old Minwax.

For this build I will be using the Powder dye in American Walnut. With this you just add the powder to warm water and mix. You can add more powder to darken the stain.

**NOTE** Powder dyes will stain anything it comes in contact with!!!

You can make all types of colors with these types of dyes,
I mix bright orange with a little Maple to get a nice YEW color stain….

I applied the stain with a form brush, I’m just doing a cap stain on these arrows.

[kingwouldbe]

#58767

Mark I haven’t shoot woody’s in about 15 years, I use to like doing feather splicing and dipping etc…..

You got me thinking maybe I need to make some woody’s 😀

Nice build along

[SteveMcD]

#58904

DDude… where do you get powder stains?

[desertdude49]

#59145

I get the Powder Dyes from Valley Traditional Archery. Like I said you can match any wood type or color.

[desertdude49]

#60234

Nest step is Sealing. There are many different types of sealers, I use the gasket lacqure system or Minwax Poly or Spar…

For this build I used the gasket lacqure system, I dipped them 2 times then light steel wool and 2 more coats. This dries real quick.

I fully understand that this product lays on top of the wood and doesn’t penetrate. I have never had a single problem with this product.

**NOTE** must use DUCO cement with this system.

The other sealer I use is Minwax Poly or Spar. They are much better sealers and penetrate the wood better. I use this on my hunting arrows. I either dip or brush on 4 coats.

[Clay Hayes]

#60241

lookin good!

[desertdude49]

#60410

Ok next part is installing the nock. This is very importent, make sure you aline the flat side of the nock to the flat grain as the picture shows. Also you want the rif so if it breaks it will be point side up so it will not got into your arm or hand.

[desertdude49]

#60413

The next step for me is to add a little cresting. I use Testor paints and a fine brush. Cresting in personal, it’s what you want it to be. I like the saying “Less is More” or “Keep it Simple”. In the end it’s up to you. These are for a N.O. Saints fan…..

[desertdude49]

#11885

Ok sorry it’s been a while since my last post. Next step is to install the fletching. I use RW feathers so only point I want to mention is that make sure if you are just starting out, use the right fletcher (RW or LW) to match your feathers. I like the Bitzenberger type of fletcher. What ever works best for you. As for glue, I use Duco for all my wood arrows. There are other ways to install fletching, (Fletch tape) this is up to your preference. Note… make sure the feather is touching the shaft even, as picture shows.

[desertdude49]

#11895

We are almost done. Last part is to install the points. Remember to cut the shaft 1 inch longer than where you want the back of the point. this will alow for the taper. I use both the sander type and taper tool to do my tapers. Once you have all the tapers it’s time to install the points. Make sure you clean out the inside of the points (I use acetone).

I the heat some hot melt glue and put a dab on the point taper. I then heat the point and install, twisting to seat the point. While the glue is still hot I spine chech the point and adjust if needed. This is the same method I use for Broadheads. I then wipe the area between the end of the point and the shaft with a little Duco to seal the bare wood if there is any.

Time to go shoot and enjoy you work. Sorry for the spelling and the break inbtween the build.

[desertdude49]

#11910

A couple of close up pictures of the fininshed arrows and some I made for me>

[kingwouldbe]

#12762

Dude! you got skills 😀

[Treetopflier]

#12820

Oh my!8)8)8)

[William Warren]

#12886

Beautiful work! Love the burn. 😀

[youngbuck]

#24309

Very Cool. Also wanted to say Hi DesertDude.:D

[Holten101]

#25469

Very nice desertdude.

Inspired me to build a set of arrows my self. Nowere near as butifull as yours but they will do;-)

I must say…that the cresting part was hard, and made me appreciate you work alot more:-)

I could post some pics….but this thread might be better be left as is. Nice build along.

Cheers

[Bert]

#25802

Dude- Thanks for all the info and sharing your obvious skills- it inspires us gifted- and not so gifted- amateurs to a higher level of aesthetics. Life is too short to shoot ugly arrows! Especially liked the camouflage burn job and have done it to a couple of rifle stocks. WhisperingWind arrows uses Daly’s Profin as a sealer(3 coat) and I can vouch for its durability and easy flow- the Korean bamboo arrow makers rub a coat of carwax over their lacquer finish.
Though I’ve mostly fletched with parabolics, I’m really liking the looks(if marginally less efficient) of the shield cut- just adds a touch of traditional class to woodies.
They look too beautiful to shoot- but shoot they will I imagine!
Keep your bare fingers off the hot points!- Bert

[Fletcher]

#25879

Are those internal weights I’m seeing in the point taper picture?

[Bloodless]

#26288

Fletcher — I see ’em too!
DesertDude — tell us about it — both the building, and how they shoot and hold up (if you please).

Most interested! 😀

[desertdude49]

#35293

Nope, just the way the picture came out. I haven’t treid them yet. Dave was going to do a little “Show and Tell” when he got his done. I have tried all type of point weights and in the end I keep going back to 125gr field points and 125gr Zwicky’s. Woods and Zwicky’s just look right together. I’m going to start another set for up coming deer season, I sure do like the way the Burned arrows came out. That was my first try at burning, I do like the camo effect…

Thanks For all the Kind words….

Mark “DD”

[bruc]

#47289

I have new wood finished shafts from Whispering Winds Arrow. I’m in the process of fletching. I’m using 4″ feathers. When the feather is in the clamp and I set it on the shaft it does not not make full contact in all spots along the shaft. The tip end is making good flat contact. The nock end is contacting only one edge of the feather. The glue seems to be holding well. Is this normal or should I be adjusting something:?: Any comments. Please .
Bruce

[desertdude49]

#47465

The Feather should lay flat against the shaft from the tip to the back. Adjust your jig, keep playing with in until you get full contact on all of the feathers base…..

[Mark Turton]

#47882

Mark ‘DD’, enjoyed your thread, admire your skill and the finished article. It’s highlighted my failings when building wood arrows, not enough attention to detail in the early stages.

The foam brush was a revelation I just cut squares of foam and then proceed to get sealer over everything.

For 6 months I’ve been trying to reclaim my den! this has made me more determined to get in there and have a go.

Mark ‘P’

[Author]

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