Home › Forums › Campfire Forum › What draw weight would you recommend?
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Its been a few years and I’m looking to get back into archery. Thinking about getting a Bear Montana Longbow, but not sure of what draw weight to choose? Plan on using the bow mostly for small game/deer and eventually elk/bear. Any advice will greatly help.
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Good choice on the Bear Montana. They are an excellent bow for the price.
As far as to what draw wieght you should choose, I would recommend shooting 40# to start with. This wieght is light for Elk, but will work for the Deer and small game.
The importanty thing to remember is that you will always be able to shoot a light poundage well, but you will never completely master a bow thats too heavy. The 40# is a safe bet, and you can always purchase a heavier bow when the time comes to hunt Elk.
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Thanks for the advice. I know a lot depends on my ability for draw weight. Guess I’m looking more for what would be a recommended draw weight for taking game? 40lbs is the legal minimum but to me that seems way to low for ethically going after elk/bear? But like I said I’m starting over so maybe I’m wrong? Having two different bows doesn’t sound like a bad idea either.
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I have been a bow hunter since the 60’s and started with a recurve but switched to compounds in the 70’s and have used them continuous until today. I decide to switch back to Traditional Archery this years and just purchased my first long bow, as i have gotten older i have cut back on Heavy Poundage Bows and now only shoot 60 lbs on my compounds. The long Bow i just purchased is the Samrick 69 and i went with 45 lb because it is really easy to over pound yourself especially with a recurve or longbow. I am looking forward to taking my first deer this year with a Longbow. Personally if you have never shot a recurve or longbow i wouldn’t go any higher than 45 lb. Being able to shoot accurate will trump heavy poundage any day. Concerning my new longbow , I’m sure glad i didn’t go over 45 lbs when i ordered it. Here it is with a dozen arrow i just wrapped and fletched.
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Impossible question to answer on someone else’s behalf but the advice here is sound. My approach was a cheap takedown recurve where I increased poundage inexpensively by picking up limbs as needed. I’m now comfortably shooting 45lb and eventually hope to acquire a decent bow within this range. Best of luck on your trad adventure and keep us posted – we love hearing and seeing new gear here 😀
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Most bows are rated at 28 inches I belive this is a AMO standard. If your draw is 26 inches you probably draw close to 6 lbs lighter than the advertised weight.Or you could be drawing a heavier weight if you draw 30 inches.
The best advice is to try several bows and chose the heaviest bow you can draw comfortably.
Good advice has been given choose a bow you can hold at full draw for a reasonable time. 5 to 10 seconds.
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Some Bows may have different ways of measuring the draw length. Some will be from the deepest part of the grip while others may be from the rear of the riser.
Actual draw length on a Bow is from the front of the riser so, on a longbow or some recurves it may be measured differently in length to gain the marked weight on the Bow. This may require more or less drawlength accordingly.
My recurves all have the same riser which is a Black Bear metal riser. When drawn 26 inches from the deepest part of the of the grip, the actual measurement is set in front of the riser at 28 inches. This is why one should invest in a good digital Bow scale to really refine things.
Draw the Bow and have someone mark the arrow at full draw even with the front of the riser (sight window cut out) and then measure the length from the nock throat to the front of the arrow behind the point. This is your actual draw length on THAT Bow and may well change from Bow to Bow! AMO is fine but you cannot go by marked weight to reach draw length and draw weight, it must be measured by the individual!!!:)
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Fred Bear answered this question so many times, so many years ago I’m suprised people still ask it.
The correct answer is, per Fred”shoot the heaviest bow YOU can handle”.
That’s it, mystery solved!
Go out and shoot some bows and find a weight that works for YOU. Don’t be handicapped w/a bow you’ll be dissatisfied with. Draw weight is only one of many variables to consider
in finding the “right’ bow.
Half the fun is finding “the” one!
Enjoy the hunt!
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I don’t disagree with anything said, and I came to the same conclusion Fred Bear did years ago. However, a couple of points. First, a lot of us shoot too much bow. I hunted with bows in the #70-75 range for years, but when I was recovering from neck surgery I learned that the lightest bow I owned–#58–would shoot through anything including elk and bear. Now I shoot bows in the #60-65 range, not because I can’t pull heavier ones but because I shoot lighter ones more accurately. Second, your optimal weight will change quickly when you come back to archery after a long lay-off. #45 may be all you can handle now, but after a few months of practice you’ll likely be up to #60 comfortably. However, you don’t want to start there, because wrestling with too much weight will make you develop bad shooting form. The ideal solution would be to borrow a #45 bow from a friend, shoot it for a couple of months, and see where you’re at. I’ve loaned out countless bows for this purpose over the years. Don
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I agree wholeheartedly with Don. This past June I was shooting one of the courses at Comptons with Fred and Michelle Eichler and took the oportunity to ask him about his draw and arrow weights. I figured a guy who’s killed each of the 29 North American big game species has a bit of first hand experience (to put it mildly). His arrows weigh just under 500 grains (490-something) and he shoots 54#. With very few exceptions, assuming proper arrow flight and such, accuracy trumps all.
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Yes, accuracy trumps all … assuming you’re so consistently accurate that you can always shoot between the ribs.
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The only bow I will ever shoot, is the one in my hand.
As an Archer, the quest to draw the bow, and learn its personality in inherant to making any shot.
Back when I used a C-pound, I was confident in putting the crosshairs on the target, and pulling the trigger. On my release, the arrow flies off string.
I have witnessed shooters using string tourque to make shots impossible with a compound, and would bet money on arial targets on these shooters, I cannot match their dexteriety, but not a chance to equate it to pure accuracy..
It is like compairing Duck Hunting to Turkey hunting, not the same thing at all…
“the Greats” all started out with 10# bows they made themselves, you ever try making one ??
You are best suited to just picking a bow you like, and learning how to shoot, then picking one out for hunting.. one for target shooting, rabbits, stumping, 3D tourneys…
OOps, sorry that is just my disease, cannot only have one…..
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