Home › Forums › Friends of FOC › weight / foc
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Have a question trying the foc thing I have a arrow setup that i get around 23% foc but arrow weight is around 520 gr. When i put in weight tube to get to the bone breaking 650 gr min.That is suggested my foc goes down to 17% foc .So would it better to go with the lighter weight higher foc .Not giving up on the higher weight arrow but if I cant find A combo that gives me the weight and foc which would be better to go with.
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The thing to do is to increase your point weight. Add the weight needed to get your 650 grain desired arrow weight. Then retune by cutting the shaft till you get good bare shaft flight.
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Steve’s suggestion is the way to do it, if you have enough shaft length to allow for reduction in length. If not you may have to change to a stiffer shaft.
Troy
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I’m in the same boat as Wolf and it’s driving me crazy. My bow is 54# @ 25″ I am shooting Gold Tip 35/55 full length.I put weight tubes in and 125 grn pts finished off at 550grns arrows fly great (killed with this set up ) . I took all my tubes out and put 250 grn pt up front to get 530 arrows shoot like darts . I put 175 on tube arrows to get 630 and the lighter arrows fly better. So do I leave tubes in and cut shafts or do I buy weights and a tool and keep weighting the front end of the 530grn arrows ? I am really messed up on this and it seems to be getting spendy .
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Wahoo — If you’re only hunting deer, small hogs, etc. I think you’re fine with the 530 setup that “shoots like darts” and has EFOC, assuming you are fronted with a good two-blade head. I am likely abusing Dr. Ashby’s study results which refer to 650 as minimal to assure busting through the “heavy bone threshold” (and that, again, assumes a broadhead that can handle the shock without breaking or badly dulling), but I view it as a minimum not for deer but for elk and similarly big, heavy-bodied and very heavy-boned game. I personally don’t shoot anything much under 700 even for turkey, but it’s in large part because heavy arrows fly so well and I’m so used to shooting them. I would love it if Ed could drop in on this thread and straighten us out, but he’s surgery-wounded in one arm and off the air for a while, last I heard. Anyhow, if you’re tired of messing with it and have good shooters at 530 and won’t be hunting anything bigger than deer and have the right broadheads and EFOC … I’d just relax and go hunting. I personally wouldn’t touch weight tubes if someone offered to pay me … just one step too much in complicating things, when I can get all the weight I’ll ever need from broadheads like the Tuffhead 300, which can be further beefed-up with heavy steel or brass adapters and inserts. Now, with all that said, my preference and usual advice is to get the 650 weight first and then worry about FOC. It’s really easy to have both with carbon arrows. But it sounds like you’re burning out on the quest and thus I say you’re probably OK as you are. For deer anyhow …
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Thanks DP . I do hunt elk and killed with the 530 set up. If I read you right I should get heavier pts and weights up front to get to 650 700 grn . I must be over thinking this ?? I have some 55/75 but can’t seem to get the good flight as I do with the 35/55.I will order some weights and and try to beef up the front and see what happens.
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wahoo wrote:
I will order some weights and and try to beef up the front and see what happens.
That’s what I would suggest. Though my draw length is longer than yours, I shoot 5575s out of a #54 bow, with 330gr. up front.
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Field points? Yup – check out 3 Rivers, Kustom King, etc. They offer them up to 300 grains.
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Thank you . I believe I finally have this whipped . I had some brass weight and pulled the pts put 200 grn up front with a 125 pt and was at 600 and flying good. I just need to figure weights and or pts or both. It looks like I can buy a tool with weights and screw them in and out as I want to ? I will find out , I don’t want to damage my shafts with heat . Thanks you guys have really helped
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