Washer Weights?

[Etter1]

#5914

Has anybody used the washer weights behind their points or nocks to add weight?

I’d like to go to 200 grains and I can easily add two of them behind my heads to get there. I just wonder if the heads would loosen easier.

Also, if I add 10 grains to the front, and 10 grains to the nock, is the arrow tuned the same as with no weight?

[David Coulter]

#45933

Hi Etter,

I used to use them a lot, especially with aluminum arrows. They worked great and as long as I didn’t use too many I had no problems with the threads. I think three was pushing it, but worked. I use a little hot glue on the threads and it works well to keep them tight. dwc

[Stephen Graf]

#46557

I don’t know a thing about the washers, but…

200 grains is a fairly modest weight. What about looking at the insert in your broadhead? I am sure you can get there by using steel inserts, which come in 75, 100, and 125 grain weights.

[Bender]

#48550

They do work, but yeah, 3 is the limit. Go with the hot melt on the threads to ensure no loosening.

Technically, no, adding 10 up front and 10 at the back is not the same as if you had made no changes to your state of tune. Weight at the front makes the arrow act weaker, weight at the rear makes the arrow act stiffer. However it just doesn’t work out to be a nice one to one ratio. As a rough rule of thumb, if you’re trying to make tuning changes with weight at the rear, it will take about twice as much weight difference as what it would it take to make the same change with weight up front.

So for example, if want a stiffer, and you make it so by losing 10 grains up front, to make the same change by using weight at the rear would require adding 20 grains at the rear.

So for all practical purposes, to add 10 up front and 10 at the rear, you have basically only made an effective change equivalent to adding 5 grains up front. So as far as state of tune is concerned, I doubt if anybody could truly, honestly shoot that difference.

[Bruce Smithhammer]

#48962

I would focus on weight up front. Adding weight to the rear has no penetration advantage that I can think of, and would probably only complicate tuning.

[Bender]

#49269

Smithhammer wrote: I would focus on weight up front. Adding weight to the rear has no penetration advantage that I can think of, and would probably only complicate tuning.

Yeah.

Basically.

Sure you can make tuning changes with weight at the rear. But just because you CAN do something doesn’t always mean that you SHOULD.

[Etter1]

#51532

Thanks for the info guys.

I’m really happy with the setup as it is, but wanted to get a few more grains up front and wondered if there was a way to do that without messing up my arrow flight on my widow.

I feel very confident in its lethality.

[Etter1]

#56114

What a difference 30 grains can make. I’ve been shooting 170 grain field points (because that’s what I have). I shot my 190 grain tree sharks a few times to make sure they flew the same and they did, but every once in a while, I got some fishtailing with the 170 points. I bought 200 grain fp’s and washers for the broadheads so I’d shoot 200 up front. The bow is significantly quieter and the arrows are flying even better.

That widow is FAST and now it’s really ready for the season.

[Author]

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