Using footings to tune/make a shaft stiffer

[Longtrad]

#3789

Hey guys, I’ve been caught up with the FoC bug and trying to figure out the best way to add a 100 grain insert to my 300 grain points.

my bow is a prarie predator, 46# @ 26″ cut 1/8 shy of center with a bcy-x string

My current arrow set up is a 30%FoC, it’s a 500 spine victory vforce shaft cut to 27.5″ with a 300g point. They fly awesome but I want to add a little more weight and also get a little more FoC.

So the way I see it I can either go to a 400 spine carbon and see how far I need to cut them down with 400 grains up front, or I can add a long footing to my 27.5′ 500 spines.

Has anyone used footings to tune their arrows for more weight? About how long did you have to make them?

Thanks in advance for the replies, Just hoping to hear some feedback and experiences from you all. 😉

[Stephen Graf]

#31462

Adding weight behind the broadhead turns out to be a disappointing way to increase FOC. The closer to the end of the broadhead you can put the weight, the more the FOC will increase.

Using a heavier insert in your broadhead is the place to start. I know you can get them up to 125 grains. I expect you are already doing that.

Another thing you can is use a lighter insert that has been hollowed out and fill it with lead. Then fill the end of the ferrel cavity with lead.

And of course a heavier broadhead is the easiest and most effective way to do it.

[Longtrad]

#47346

I could add some of the weight to the broadhead by upping the adaptor weight. Right now I’m using the 235g grizzly kodiaks with a 75 grain screw in adapter. It would be easiest just to use the brass insert plus I think it will give the arrow better structural integrity than the aluminum inserts.

I do understand your point about the returns on Foc being greater the further you can put the weight to the end of the arrow though. Do you think it’s worth it to get larger amounts of foc even if it means using a weaker insert?

[Stephen Graf]

#12740

I’ve used both brass and aluminum inserts. I’ve never had either one fail on me. I have had steel broadhead inserts bend when screwed into aluminum arrow inserts a number of times. So go figure.

I quit using brass inserts ’cause they cost more and I have to special order them. Aluminum ones come free with the arrows 😀

The best most durable carbon arrow setup I made was to use an aluminum insert with a 1 1/2 inch aluminum arrow section glued onto the shaft. Glue the insert in first. Then, if required, sand the insert down so it’s diameter matches the arrow, then slide the arrow section over the shaft and have it come flush with the face of the insert. After the glue dries, sand the face smooth so the insert and aluminum arrow section make a uniform face.

IF you want to get fancy, bevel what will be the back side of the aluminum section so that it blends well with the shaft to make removal from targets easier.

That said, I switched back to wood arrows a few years ago and doubt I’ll ever stray from them again.

[Longtrad]

#28107

Thanks for the replies! It is greatly appreciated.

I have seen an aluminum insert fail but it struck a steel T post while rabbit hunting.

Ripped the threads through the shaft but also broke the threaded post off right behind the vpa small game thumper. Those bigger wider thumpers can put a whole ton of torque on the shaft. I don’t think this would be typical when using a broadhead though, not to mention if one were to actually shoot animals instead of fencing supplies.

Seems like the strongest carbon arrow would use one of those brass insert/adaptor combos and skip the threads all together. I shoot victory shafts and havent found one of those that will fit a 245 inner diameter shaft however.

Hmm I don’t like buying the brass inserts either. I wonder how many grains of lead you could pack into a 125grain adaptor.

[handirifle]

#57911

I like to make my own out of steel. Large nails to be exact. Harbor Freight mini lathe does the trick. It IS time consuming though.

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