Home › Forums › Friends of FOC › turbulator variation?
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I was wondering if it would be possible to make a turbulator out of aluminum shafting,like a footing?Just curious.
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From memory, thickness and width were key in a proper tubulator.
I’d bought some engineering tape once that was 1/8″ wide I believe and Doc said it was a bit much…
if you can find alum shafting the thickness of a cap wrap (that’s thin) I’ve heard of guys successfully making turbs outa cap wrap material.
Placement was important in front of the feathers, too…
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R2 wrote: [quote=Doc Nock]
Placement was important in front of the feathers, too…
Better check with Bruce to see which side of the feathers is best for placement. 😆
A fool and his advice is soon parted and I bit ONCE…
Be a wee bit more cautious next time me thinks!
He can waller in his bass ackward arras for all I care…or send em to me for mater stakes! 🙄
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I just put a piece of duct tape on a cutting board (adhesive side down) and use a ruler and razer knife to slice it into thin strips. Works well enough.
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When I played around with them, I just cut thin strips from some old cap wraps I had laying around. I experimented with them in slightly different locations ahead of the fletching, but honestly, I couldn’t see any different in flight from my non-turbulator arrows. I’ll be curious to hear your results.
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See, now Bruce, I don’t know if you’re being serious or not…
What is the purpose of a turbulator?
Was it not, to stabilize the air flow over TINY fletching???
I have 3″x 1/2″ A&A style fletching and I do not need it with 28% FOC.
I THOUGHT it was employed for those folks who dropped in feather size to those 2″ and even smaller (:shock: ) who had stability issues, THEN use a turbulator?
NO?
If memory serves me correctly, then how many trad types ever drop to that small a feather?
I can’t bend my brain around smaller then 3″x 1/2″, so all this talk of turbulators, I’d be interested to hear who used what size feathers… to go with their tubulator experiences…
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April Fool’s is over, my friend. 😉
I used them with 4 x 2-1/4″ and 4 x 3″ fletch. And maybe they were having a stabilizing effect, but it wasn’t anything I could observe. My inconsistent form was probably a mitigating factor…
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I tried some once that I cut from reflective tape and I could see no difference. I wasn’t have any flight problems anyway so all I did was make more visible arrows to find after dark when I was still looking for my arrows.
I needed some to shoot the next day:D:D:D
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Smithhammer wrote: April Fool’s is over, my friend. 😉
I used them with 4 x 2-1/4″ and 4 x 3″ fletch. And maybe they were having a stabilizing effect, but it wasn’t anything I could observe. My inconsistent form was probably a mitigating factor…
Unless Doc shows up to validate, I could be wrong and don’t have time or skill to dig thru the morass of his great data to find the turbulator article to cite.
However, having said that… if one does the math, 4 ea of 2.25″ arrows isn’t t hat the same as 3×3″?
Which is about what I have and don’t need any extra stabilizing.
I tried the 4 fletch and didn’t see it did anything but it did slow my arrow some, judged not by technology but by the drop in POI at same distance…so I went back to 3 fletch.
Somehow, Bruce, I doubt you have inconsistent form, but if you say so… it’s ok with me.
Again, I thought turbulators only helped if you had too little steerage from your fletching without a turbulator… to try a turbulator 1/4″ ahead of the feathers BEFORE going back to larger surface area… but hey, memory is not my strong suit!
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That’s my understanding as well, Doc – it’s on a “need to turbulate” basis. 😉
However personally, I’d just as soon add the required fletching for stability (plus a little extra margin for operator error), and I don’t feel that a loss of a fraction of percent of FOC as a result will make a lick of difference. But to each his own.
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After Jason S shot broad heads bare shaft, me wonders if this turbo thinggies are “much to do” about nuttin…
Another guy I know uses turbo NOCKS and says he gets great stabilization 3′ in front of the bow… dunno how he thinks he knows that, but that’s his story… He’s got some wild gear to test things…:D
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I put the tape on when i first went to short x 4 fletch. I used the auto pin stripe tape and placement as directed. I ended up taking it off. I didn’t see a difference. I’m not doubting the science, I’m figuring my wiggles and wobbles overran the effect of the foil. I do think it’s worth experimenting with, as it just might be the ticket. My arrows fly pretty nice, but I bet with some live instruction from a more experienced archer they could fly even better.
My arrows fly like darts at targets up to 20 yards or so, but sometimes when I fling them from farther out i see them wiggle a bit. Dwc
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dwcphoto wrote:
My arrows fly like darts at targets up to 20 yards or so, but sometimes when I fling them from farther out i see them wiggle a bit. Dwc
I’ve heard others say that as well…
Following Troy’s Tuff-Head site guide to EFOC tuning, I found they were hitting perfect nock wise at 10-15…but when I backed up to 25, I saw a wobble (barrel roll to my eye), which Troy addresses.
Small (tiny) saw cut on one, 2 such on another and a full 1/4″ on the third arrow that behaved badly at longer range and walla…they all flew swell…
Troy once commented that he can make an arrow shoot weak(I think, or was it stiff) by dragging his ring finger on release!
WT? I don’t even KNOW what an individual finger might be doing on release… THAT impressed the bejabbers outa me!
Some of these guys are much finer “tuned” in their shooting than I, and therein lies the biggest problem with my accuracy… ME!
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The effect of turbulators is a subtle thing. Adcock started using them for flight archery where every inch of distance counts…
The only real advantage to them for the average Joe, that I could see, or actually hear, is that it made the arrows more quiet.
Get a friend to shoot your arrows past you while you stand behind a tree (what you do behind the tree is between you and the tree 🙄 ) and listen.
It’s educational.
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Interesting thought, Steve.
Here (Hear?) I thought the reduction in noise was going with smaller feathers that Doc Ed said might need the turbulator!?
BTW, will a shed do? My friend and I took turns standing behind his shed and shot past… both of us have some hearing loss with age, but we could tell the difference between 5″ low shield and the 3″ A&A fletch.
To keep it honest, we mixed up the order of shooting each and the shed hider had to call out louder or quieter as each went past…
We both were 100% on hearing the 3″ were quieter.
Lots of fun stuff in all this SIMPLE stick and string!
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Doc, thanks for passing along Troy’s advice. I’ll take some arrows out and see how they fly at a distance. One thing I know I have to be aware of is changing my form when shooting farther. It’s an old habit of trying to get a little more oomph into a long shot.
Steve, thanks for the clarification on the audio of fletching. No better reason.
Hope you guys all had a great day. peace, dwc
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Dave,
For what it’s worth, Kidwell says elevation is a non-issue as our brain remembers the arc of the arrow at shorter distances and automatically calculates the extra distance.
I had another good shooter once tell me for longer shots, to take my normal stance, then move my back foot back 6 inches.
He held his bow up to demonstrate with an arrow nocked…when he took that 1/2 step back with is back foot, his bow angled up slightly.
Seems to work for me… just one of those FWIW things… 8)
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