Tuning stiffer spines than expected

[raghorn]

#50088

Wood shafts spine different depending on grain orientation. So if your nocks are not lined up correctly then your results are skewed.

You did not state your bow weight at your draw length.

Do you plan on putting broadheads and feathers on the wood

shafts to hunt with? If yes…then why shoot a bare shaft which give a different result?

Wood spine is marked to coincide with a 28″ draw length and a 125 head. so if your bow is 55# and with a 27″ draw then you would need 50-55 to start with. Adding broadhead you add 5#, so the 55-60 would have been good for a 55# bow. Adding the 160 head could make a case to go to 60-65, but it is not that big a difference.

[Leo Carrisalez]

#50157

55# Tomahawk

grizzly single bevels

three 5″ low cut bananas from my own Turkey feathers

27 in DL

Nocks are lined up correctly.

I figured all feathers do is correct an improperly tuned arrow. Ive bare shaft tuned and paper tuned all my arrows from up close and personal to 20yds with great results. From my Heavy FOC arrow to my lighter shafts. Ive since fletched these new shafts and they do fly as expected. I never really thought the conventional 1″ of shaft past the riser worked for everyone. I order matched sets, I’m just a little surprised at how much i had to go up in spine just to get them to fly straight……I may very well be the odd ball

[Stephen Graf]

#56901

When I switched from carbons to wood, I continued to bare shaft tune the arrows thinking that was the right thing to do.

Some old timers (I’ll never be an old timer 😳 ) patiently told me that bare shaft tuning woods doesn’t work. I stubbornly continued doing it till I had broken a bunch of good shafts but hadn’t made much progress shooting.

Finally I just went ahead and fletched some wood arrows up and shot them. I was surprised to see that shafts that would shoot weak bare shaft, flew just fine with feathers. Stiff shafts flew pretty well too.

Wood doesn’t recover from paradox as fast as carbon does. So it always looks wonky without feathers. Despite it’s wiggly nature, I find it is more forgiving of spine variation than carbon seems to be.

That bow you are shooting is cut to center I think. If so, it will want stiffer arrows. You might consider building the side plate out some to allow for weaker arrows. You might find that you get more consistent results.

[Ralph]

#60879

Yup² Steve……………

I’m not an old timer either:wink::wink::wink:

No two pieces of wood bend the same………..

[Leo Carrisalez]

#21344

Thanks for the advice….guess I won’t be so OCD….with my next set of shafts

[Charles Ek]

#30683

Just for kicks – has the draw weight on the bow been measured by an accurate means at your draw length?

[grumpy]

#47980

Just because you haven’t grown UP, doesn’t mean you don’t grow old.

Just got my dozen carbon shafts, with field tip test kit, and weight washers. Going to cut them to length this afternoon, and bare shaft tune them when it stops raining. Yes I said raining, looks like no snow this year, R2 got our snow. 😥

[Ralph]

#49682

Grumpy, I don’t mess with carbon shafts a whole bunch but do you cut them a tad long at first since from what I read length and weight up front are big factors in carbon shafts?? Wood shafts also but not near as touchy.

Just wonderin…..

[Stephen Graf]

#58420

You can send some of that snow down here if you want to 😀

[grumpy]

#63664

For the record…. we are expecting a whopping 1/2 inch of snow tomorrow. 🙁

Yup, R2 they are a bit longer than they have to be, just in case I have to shorten them. Hoping to get the right spine by adjusting the head weight, want to get them FOC.

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