Tuning issues

[Leo Carrisalez]

#5083

here i am trying to tune up some wood shafts spines for

70-75#’s. Ive tried a 225 field tip at cut them as short as I’d like to cut them and they are still showing slight weak. I then used a 190 field tip and seem to get the same results. I know im doing someething wrong. I just cant believe that Im using a underspined arrow considering the bow weight. @ my DL I’m drawing 51 #’s. And to top it off I’m still showing nock high even after lowering my nock to 18. my woodies are nocked right and im cutting them a little bit at a time. could it be possible that i need to get a heavier spine? Thats just weird to me. Any suggestions will help, this is driving me insane

[Arne Moe]

#37111

ST,

You don’t mention the center cut of your bow (or lack thereof) BUT… 225 grain tips are REALLY heavy points for wood IMO. Wood spine is pretty much predicated on a 125 grain tip. By using 225s, you are effectively reducing the dynamic spine of your shafts by somewhere around 20#. Then with what ever length you have over 28″ you are loosing another 5# per inch. Your weak indications sound about right.

Try some 125s and see what you get.

Arne

[Leo Carrisalez]

#37115

I just about to switch out the field tips. Now, is it possible that i have lowered my string nock enough to give me a false reading? i need another cup of coffee

[Arne Moe]

#37123

Yes, it’s possible but remember that string nock location mostly affects the arrow in the vertical plane. Weak/stiff indications are in the horizontal.

Arne

[Jason Wesbrock]

#37146

South Texas,

It’s very rare when I offer any advice that deviates from Arne’s, but in this case I’ll stray slightly from his suggestion. The first thing I do when tuning is take care of my nock height. The fact that you cannot tune out a nock high situation tells me you have some contact issues with the shelf, and that can make tuning for spine difficult as well. I used to have a real problem getting rid of nock high arrow flight off the shelf until I had a discussion with Ken Beck a few years ago. He told me how to fix the problem in a matter of a few minutes.

What sometimes happens is the arrow nock slides down the serving slightly upon release. When that occurs, the back end of the arrow contacts the shelf and bounces upward. Since the nock slide is erratic, you really can’t predict it and set your nock locater accordingly. Here’s how you fix the problem once and for all. This assumes your shelf has a nice radius to it, as opposed to those wide, flat shelves that can on a lot of bows back in the 60s and 70s.

Start with an intentionally high nock setting, such as 3/4”. Put a second nock locator under your arrow, leaving a gap about the size of two wraps of serving material. The second nock set prevents the arrow from sliding down the serving, and the tiny gap prevents the nock from getting pinched at full draw. Your arrows should leave the bow nock high at this point. Lower your nock sets about 1/16” at a time, shooting as you go, until the arrows leave the bow nice and level. Once you fix the shelf contact issue, you can then move on to tuning for arrow spine.

[Arne Moe]

#37153

J,

I don’t disagree with anything you said. I was just addressing the spine question not the nock problem — probably should have. I do agree with starting with the locator at 3/4″. 1/8th is way to low with a wood shaft ( and most others) and I’m sure he is getting a bounce off the shelf that is giving the nock high problem.

Your advice is correct!

Arne

[Leo Carrisalez]

#54568

The strangest thing happened this morning. I made a cup of coffee and decided to take advantage of the windless morning to continue tuning. To make a long story short, I bareshafted a 70-75 sitka spuce arrow cut down to 29″s with a 125 field tip. I cannot not even begin to explain why this would work and wont attempt to. From 10, 20, 25 and out to 30 yards it shot like a beautiful dart without fletchings. Ill see how the rest of the shaft tune out, atleast i have somewhere to start. I really was hoping to tune them out with a 190 Field tip. At this point I’m way to happy with the outcome. Ill let you guys know how the remainder of the tuning turns out. I have 10 more shafts to go.

[WyoStillhunter]

#57088

Good discussion and helpful.

I just made great progress with bow/arrow tuning by simply raising the brace height on my 66″ longbow.

I am just getting back into archery this year after many years away. Over the last several weeks I’ve been a little frustrated as accuracy was simply not improving much. A few days ago it dawned on me that my longbow was noisier than my recurve. Hmmmm?!

A check of the brace height revealed it was low by a bunch…over an inch. Getting the brace height to the high side of bowyer’s suggestion took care of all sorts of problems. Now I know when it’s my release or form that sends an arrow astray.

Finally, wouldn’t a drastic change in brace height like I made possibly require an adjustment in knocking point? I am going to take a look at that just to be sure.

[Leo Carrisalez]

#57152

IMHO, i would start with a high string nock and adjust accordingly. I take a week or two maybe more to tune out a dozen arrows. Once I get tired and form goes out the window, i hang the bow up for a couple days and start again fresh. I really could not figure out how a 70-75 shaft was still weak with a 190 field tip from a 51# bow. All I can say is that I kept shooting and cutting till the bow told me what it liked. Once the arrow flies perfect i know its time to move on to the next arrow. From extreme nock tailing left to perfection in a week or 2 of relaxed and patient tuning. Take your time, you’ll be so much more satisfied with the results. good luck brother

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