To cut or not to cut…arrow length??

[WyoStillhunter]

#6383

Arrows: commercially made cedar 11/32 arrows spined 50-55. They are all 30″ from nock to tapered end. With 125 gr. field points, blunts, or Zwickey Eskimo broadheads they are 29″ from nock to ferrule (back edge of the head).

Bows: 50#@28″ Damon-Howatt Hunter by Martin and 55#@28″ Sky Archery Rogue reflex-deflex long bow (66″).

Performance: My strength and form are not yet consistent enough to eliminate human error in evaluating arrow flight. When it all comes together these arrows fly well out of both bows. I am beginning to be able to shoot some “groups” but have a ways to go.

Question: I only draw 27″ or a shade less. Is there any practical advantage to shortening my arrows by an inch or more?

[skifrk]

#50864

Have you shot these arrows with feathers of to do some bareshaft tuning. If the shaft shows weak you may need to cut the shaft shorter to stiffen. However you may want to wait on doing this until you have a clean consistent release. Otherwise you might misread an arrow result and make a mistake in the tuning.

[WyoStillhunter]

#50876

No, I have not done any bare shaft testing. I am open to the need to develop a more consistent form before I can get the good out of testing which focuses on other variables.

I have a 40 year old Browning Explorer I recurve (45#@28″). I probably need to work more with it until my strength and form settle in. I just picked up my traditional gear after about 10 years of letting it sit in the closet.

On top of all that I had double bypass surgery at the end of February and am just now building up my overall strength and endurance.

Thanks for the reply.

[handirifle]

#51032

I agree, wait till you’re sure your strength, and release are consistent before cutting them. Arrows are too expensive to waste.

Speedy recovery, and keep shootin!

[Donnie]

#51477

WyoStillhunter,

Good Morning!

I NEVER cut my arrows. I have found that the longer the arrow…. the more forgiving it is. There are so many weight options out there….. There is no need to cut arrows down anymore. (Unless you just like having short arrows.)

I paper tune…. and I have my bow set to where I am shooting “Bullet Holes”. I can shoot a 400 carbon, (30″ uncut) with the big brass insert (I forgot what the weight of the large brass insert is)…. with a 75 grn. Field Tip or Broadhead…. or I can shoot a 300 carbon (32″ uncut) with the large brass insert and a 145 grn. Field Tip or Broadhead…. and get the exact same results!!! (Bullet holes when paper tuning!)

I guess my suggestion to you is this…. Wait until you have a more consistent release and form before you start cutting arrows. (Its kinda hard to make e’m longer again!) In the mean time…. Experiment with the different weights. Try dropping down to a 100 grn. or even a 75 grn. Field Tip. Try a slightly stiffer arrow shaft…. and play with the weights again. All the while…. you will be shooting…. (hopefully) gaining better form and release…. and you will be learning some very valuable information about your bow…. and the nature or arrow spine!

Respectfully,

Donnie

[skifrk]

#51537

WyoStillHunter good luck with the recovery from the surgery. That is a good idea to go with the lower weight bow until you have form cleaned up. Then the tuning will give you more clear results.

[Stumpkiller]

#53095

Shortening an arrow increases effective spine. I draw 30-1/2″ and, to allow a head taper, cut 1/4″ off a 32″ arrow. That leaves me just a hair of clearance for the head’s shoulder at full draw. I have had to return raw shafts that were under 32″, so I really haven’t had the opportunity to “experiment” with overly long arrows.

We used to believe you shot the minimal length required as weight is inverse to speed. Now speed with traditional gear has become evil and slow is acceptable. How times do change. IMHO there is no justification to shoot a wood arrow of more than 3/4″ more than your draw length provided you have head clearance on your gloved bow had and riser.

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