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I recently aquired wood arrows of various spine weights so that I might find which spine weight shoots best from my bow.
I have two questions at present:
1. The arrows I aquired are nocked and fletched, 32 1/2inches in length measured from the front of the pyle to the front of the nock gap on the rear of the arrow. no points. Should I fist cut them to my draw length, and then “bareshaft” test them or leave them as they are and test them shorting the length a bit at a time until they fly straight then add the point weight I intend to use and test them again with diffrent point weights if my prefered point weight isn’t the correct weight for the shaft?
2. At what distance from the target should I be when conducting the test, 10,15, 20 feet or yards? -
leave them at the length you got them, install the points of choice and shoot them to see how they perform. you may trim off as you so desire, as you go.
i suggest you trim them in 1/2″ increments until you get the desired performance.
the shorter the shaft…the stiffer the spine…
length of the shaft and weight of point combinations are two ways to ‘tune’ the arrow to your bow/preferences.
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The first thing I do is straighten my wooden shafts. The second thing I do is cut them to length, I see no reason to leave them longer than I want them. If this makes them too stiff than they are too stiff. The next thing I do is try different weight points,125, 145 , 160. Doing this helps me see how close the spine is to being perfect. The heaver points should shoot slightly to the right. Ofcourse this is how I like to do it everyone has their own way. Next I will fletch one of the chosen spined arrows the shoot it side by side with the bare shaft of the same spine.Have fun, and check the arrows for straightness often. Wood arrows are neat to shoot but require attention often. Email me if you need more help.
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I’d get a screw on point from 3 rivers archery. They have only 125 gr. Taper the end and screw the point on. Shoot at 15 or 20 yards so you can have time in flight to see which way the nock end kicks. It should kick to the left (right had shooter) which shows that it is weak in spine full length. Unscrew the point, cut 1/2 inch off. Taper shaft and screw the point back on. Shoot again. As you continue this process you will see the nock begin to move to the right. When it is flying straight then you have arrived.
I once decided to see if I cut more off could I get it to fly with the nock kicking out to the right. It did. So just for fun I glued a 145 gr point on and, walla, it straighted up.
In your process you should be cautious to stop cutting off once you approach your given draw length plus at least an inch for broadhead clearance. If the shaft is still kicking to the left, then go to a heavier point and so on until it straighten ups.
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I have always used wood arrows, cedar, pine, spruce, ramin, birch, hickory. Tuning has always been a trial and error exercise for me but due to a nedical problem of late, I have discovered that shooting for pinpoint accuracy at 15 feet in my basement has helped me straighten out the tuning problem.
This works if the chosen arrow is cut to proper length, stabilized with the feathers of your choice and use various materials, spine weight and actual weight to fire into a dime-sized target or focal point with both field points and your broadhead of choice. You will find an arrow which will seem like it is drawn to that target point as if by magnet with either field point or broadhead and you have it. When you do ” have it” your arrow nock points directly back at the position you followed through with, neither up or down, right or left. -
i dont know if it is just me or whate but i find my bows shoot best with arrows spined 10 pounds lighter than my bow weight,even though i read it should be more,any thaughts
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Crittergetter
Two things have happened of late in my shooting exercises. 1. Shot a 50 pound Bear recurve with 50-55 spine tapered cedar – perfect flight with field point and broadhead. Would not, however shoot 60-65 spine properly.
2. Shot 60-65 tapered cedar with 40 pound longbow -perfect flight with field point and a 190 grain broadhead. This combo will shoot the 50-55 spine field points ok but completely erratic with broadhead affixed.Seems to come down to what works in a particular combination, style of shooting, etc. doesn’t it?
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critter 1st of all these arrows are not 10pounds lighter in spine weight than the weight of your bow. 2nd a 190 point weakens an arrows spine very much. 3rd without a spine tester you are not sure of the spine ofthe arrows. 4th with out your true draw length and a scale test of your bows you do not know what their exact weight is. So all of this is simply an estimation or guess.
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my draw was 25 and half inches 2 years ago i was pulling53 pounds now i draw26 and three quarter inches.and dont tell me my arrows are not 10 pounds spine lighter they are i have had all of them checked they are 45 to 47 spine i am 15 but not dum i am verry well educated on these issues,but i know i have mutch to learn yet.
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i have just learned my vacation starts tomorrow,2 weeks home in la witch i should kill two hogs at least, my friend checked and there are more in the heard than last year,last year i had only 6 days and managed two with my robertson mystical cedar arrows by susan st charles”finest cedar arrows anywhare”and woodsman 125 grain heads witch i mounted my self.after that i will spend three weeks in missourie with great friends and huge gobblers.
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Adding to the random answers I read about arrow type and weight: I’ve been shooting a 50lb reflex-deflex bow for nearly two years. Started out with xx75 1916 shafts and just felt they were too light, too whippy. I had some 4560 Carbon Express shafts around and tried them: too erratic. Back to aluminum: I’ve settled on xx75 2018 shafts 29″ long with 125g points. My draw length is just about 28″. Some would say my arrows are too stiff for my setup (especially since I use a B50 string, not fastflight) but they hit where I aim them, straight on, not tail out, and hit hard!
My best suggestion is to buy a few shafts of different sizes and give them a try. Then stick with what works best.
I’ve taken Bryon Ferguson’s recommendation: wood shafts are cool, but too much bother, too much variability. Stick with aluminum. -
Wood shafts may be cool, but if you have the time, patience, correct spine and grain weight they will fly as good or better than any arrow fashtioned from man-made matreial.
I have read Byron’s “Become the Arrow” and liked it muchly,
however if I have my “druthers” I’ll shoot wood over aluminium, carbon or graphite all day, every day, if I have my druthers.:wink: -
Hey Cyrille- I’m with you on wood shafts. Wood has a feel to it that’s alive. Carbon and aluminum have a dead feel to me. They just don’t say anything to me. I think Byron Ferguson prefers the precision of carbon and aluminum because his demonstrations require such preciseness and uniformity only available through them. But I can’t shoot that precise and I really like the feel of wood. How much precision does it take to hit a 3D kill zone at 20 yards? Besides, I like to see the flight of my arrow anyway.
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I shoot 60#@29 1/2″ out of a Bear Grizzly. It is marked as 55#@28″. I shoot Gamegetter 2117’s with 145 grain field tips and 150 grain Wensels, and get a very nice straight flight out of them cut at, if memory serves me correctly, 31 1/2″. I can shoot 2018’s with a 125 grain tip (broadhead or field tip), but I don’t remember the cut length offhand. Either way, I’m partial to aluminum arrows as I don’t have the patience required to continually straighten them and I’m too financially maxed out to consider carbon arrows.
Michael
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