sharpening tuffheads with kme sharpener

[skinner biscuit]

#6063

When sharpening a tuffhead with the kme,how do you place the broadhead in the clamp? I messed around with it and had poor results.If the guide rod was set to 25 degrees it hit the clamp and ferule. I’m sure I am being a idiot and doing something wrong.I ended up sharpening by hand,working it on my truck window and stropping on cardboard.Only then would it shave arm hairs.

[Ed Ashby]

#50405

Give Ron a call (1-800-561-4339). Ron’s personal service to his customers is second to none. He will walk you through the process step by step.

The degree marks on the KME sharpener are only a relative guide. The exact angle will depend on how far the edge being sharpened is from the ‘guide bar’. With single-bevel broadheads having an already-established 25 degree bevel, like the Tuffhead, just match the stone’s sharpening angle to the broadhead’s angle.

The KME sharpener is a very easy way to get a truly sharp edge on the single-bevel heads. Well worth the effort to learn how to use it correctly, and Ron will work with you until you have the technique down perfect.

Ed

[Col Mike]

#50766

Dr. Ed is right on. Ron gave Alex Bugnon and I a class at the ETAR –the only downside to that knowledge is that your wife will have you sharpening the kitchen knives as soon as they loose that razor edge:D

Have to say that the KME is one of the finest functional tools I have ever purchased.

Mike

[sharpster]

#51437

Like Ed mentioned, the angle scales on all clamp-on sharpening systems are relative, not absolute. How far the blade and cutting edge extends out in front of the clamp also influences the actual sharpening angle. This is why we recommend using a permanent marker (sharpie) to color the factory bevel.

Color the bevel completely with a sharpie. Then using a dry stone, take just a few swipes along the blade to see where the ink is being removed…

If the ink is being removed only from the shoulder of the bevel but not from the cutting edge, that’s telling us that the angle is set too low.

If the ink is coming off the cutting edge but not the face or shoulder of the bevel, that means the angle is set too high.

Adjust the angle up or down till the stone is taking the ink from the very cutting edge and at least half way up the bevel face. This way we know the stone is actually sharpening the cutting edge.

Because Tuffheads are hollow-ground, the initial inking may show that the stone is contacting both the shoulder and cutting edge but not the center of the bevel. This is fine, just make sure the stone is taking a bit more from the cutting edge than the shoulder. better to error on the bit too high side than the too low side.

Here’s a link to a page on Joe’s website saying the same thing but with a drawing showing how the blade width or how far it extends out in front of the clamp influences the actual sharpening angle:

http://www.bevelsharp.com/stoneangle.html

Ron

[OpenSky1]

#51945

Skinner,

The KME did not work like magic for me either on first crack, and I think I am pretty skilled with my hands.

Ron spent forever with me, (whatever it took), to understand the process, don’t hesitate to contact him…he is that dedicated to his product.

So a couple thoughts that may help you. I can’t emphasize enough not to put muscle into it….let the stone do the work, when you push down you actually flex the BH down and defeats the purpose of the jig maintaining a perfect angle of cut…this was my biggest mistake. Also, don’t think of the magic marker as a suggestion….consider it a mandatory visual tool. Last do not mix sharpening techniques. Some of those Youtube videos show a final flat pass…the KME actually cuts a micro bevel on the back edge of final pass. I asked Ron about this and he stated to not expect to slice a piece of paper in half in mid air like those youtube video’s show. Your cut angle is 25 degrees, not the much thinner edge on those Japanese steak knives. Know there is no doubt when that BH is razor sharp….the hair cuts clean to skin…no problem. Truth is, I still don’t have the system down perfect, as I shave hair much better with the coarser brown stone and then lose my edge with the final 2 stones.

When you cut by hand did you use a file? I did the same when I first failed with the KME, thinking I dropped money on a gimmick, and was surprised at how fast the file cut by comparison to the stones. I was convinced the stones were too soft, but after much discussion Ron finally convinced me the stones were hard enough to cut the BH metal…you just have to work the correct surface. Anyway just offering another voice that the KME works, and you are not the only one who did not magically shave hairs on their initial attempts. Hang in there, a good blood trail makes the effort worth it.

[Alexandre Bugnon]

#52470

colmike wrote: Dr. Ed is right on. Ron gave Alex Bugnon and I a class at the ETAR –the only downside to that knowledge is that your wife will have you sharpening the kitchen knives as soon as they loose that razor edge:D

Have to say that the KME is one of the finest functional tools I have ever purchased.

Mike

Correct, it is! But I use the accusharp for kitchen knives!:)

I use the KME knife sharpener for my grizzlies and abowyers broadheads, and the angle is set at 28 degrees, so that the stone touches about 1/3 of the bevel from the sharp end.

[Bruce Smithhammer]

#52584

I’ve found the same thing – I set mine @ 27deg. for my single bevels.

[Doc Nock]

#53058

Now, OpSky1, that just isn’t “so”...Ron did NOT spend FOREVER with you because that just isn’t possible…

I thought he did that with ME! :D:roll:

that man has to qualify for Sainthood, given the patience he demonstrated over oh….2 yrs off and on and I still need refreshers periodically!

I use both the knife and BH sharpener. I like the 25*, but as stated, the width of a head and angles all make it relative…

the blackened cutting bevel is really the slickest trick.

Nothing that is worth doing well will be Instant… cept for Hungry Jack smashed tater mix! 🙄

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